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SS Feed from factory fuel pump assembly to rail question.

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Aeroquip actually gives a measurement of 0.34" or 8.64mm for the I.D. on their AQP stainless -6AN hose. Either way, -6AN ID is most definitely larger in inner diameter.

I don't have time currently to measure the ID of my spare 2G AWD pickup assembly feed, but I can if it is really necessary.
 
Tubing itself can not have an inverted flare. An inverted flare fitting is just that, a fitting. A tube and a tube nut is a standard flare, it DOES NOT matter what gender the threads of the fitting and tube nut are. We are both wrong, An AN fitting is not an inverted flare, but neither is a brake line or anything involved tubing. You should remove my negative reputation points you can give out at will because of your position of "power".
Glad to see you finally figured it out! The OP is asking about the factory outlet connection on the 2G pump hanger, which is an inverted flare connection. That's why it was brought up in the first place. Your deleted misinformation still stands though. Feel free to start a thread in the Site Feedback section if you disagree.
 
LOL, wish I could give negative rep.

-6AN is about 50% larger than stock feed.

-6AN ID

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Factory Feed ID

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Except that's a picture of the factory return.

The factory feed is 10mm on a 2g.
 

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I'm just using factory fuel rail and OEM fuel pump, I'm going to have a fuelab AFPR though. I called STM with their fuel to rail kit but they said the lines will not work without their fuelab filter. I have a new filter in it already so I don't need to spend another $100 for another filter. I need the fuel line from the fuel pump to tank all the way up to the fuel filter to fuel rail. What lines and fittings do I get and where can I get it? Does any place sell the kit all together to make it easier for myself?
 
If I were replacing the whole kit and kaboodle, I would at least go with a better, replaceable filter over the OEM unit. Those filters (like the Fuellab you mentioned) have AN fittings to make connections easy. The difficult part is at the pump housing. You need to use a bulkhead fitting (Summit, Jegs, etc...) and drill through the top of the hanger. Once you have that in place and connected to the pump, you're golden. I would go with a push-lok setup with AN hose ends, -8 AN if you're going to do it right the first time. You can adapt the stock filter on the top and bottom to AN fittings, but you'll spend a reasonable amount adapting it when you can just replace it and not need those adapters, in other words.
 
If I were replacing the whole kit and kaboodle, I would at least go with a better, replaceable filter over the OEM unit. Those filters (like the Fuellab you mentioned) have AN fittings to make connections easy. The difficult part is at the pump housing. You need to use a bulkhead fitting (Summit, Jegs, etc...) and drill through the top of the hanger. Once you have that in place and connected to the pump, you're golden. I would go with a push-lok setup with AN hose ends, -8 AN if you're going to do it right the first time. You can adapt the stock filter on the top and bottom to AN fittings, but you'll spend a reasonable amount adapting it when you can just replace it and not need those adapters, in other words.

Not true. You can (if you're careful) remove the flare fitting off of the feed line coming from the pump assembly and replace it with a flare to -AN fitting.

Also, using a bulk head fitting through the filter assembly housing will mean you cannot re-use an OEM in tank pump, as it will sit down too low.
 
Not true. You can (if you're careful) remove the flare fitting off of the feed line coming from the pump assembly and replace it with a flare to -AN fitting.

Also, using a bulk head fitting through the filter assembly housing will mean you cannot re-use an OEM in tank pump, as it will sit down too low.
There is a way to use a bulkhead and a stock style pump on a 2G, but it requires boring out the bulkhead and it will leave you with a large -10 outlet on the top of the assembly.

IMO, the best option is leaving the underside of the assembly alone and welding a bung to the topside of the assembly.
 
Oh, so you can't attach an AN fitting to a flared tube? You're full of shit if you think you can't. AN was built around tubing sizes. An AN and a common inverted flare won't mate because the AN is 37 degrees and the standard flares are 45 degrees, not to mention the wrong threads. Not once did I claim you could hook a standard inverted flare (45 degree!) right up to an AN fitting, if that's what you think I'm saying.

I'm sure Russell, Earl's, and countless other companies, all sell tube sleeves and nuts in AN sizes just to as a concept but they're just not meant to work with AN flares :rolleyes:

If you got:

Holley Performance Products -5 Aluminum Tube Nut#581805ERL
Holley Performance Products -5 Aluminum Tube Sleeve#581905ERL
Holley Performance Products -6 Male to -5 Male Union Reducer#991907ERL

and flared the stock fuel line with a 37 degree flare tool, it would work.

Good luck getting a sleeve on a METRIC O/D hard line
 
Well I wouldn't be doing much to the car, the OEM unit is as much as I need. Trying to spend less than what I need.
 
There is a way to use a bulkhead and a stock style pump on a 2G, but it requires boring out the bulkhead and it will leave you with a large -10 outlet on the top of the assembly.

IMO, the best option is leaving the underside of the assembly alone and welding a bung to the topside of the assembly.

You can do that, or just use a flare to AN adapter and keep the hard line on top of the assembly alone.

Welcome to the fuel supply hell that is a 2g AWD
 
So your saying is that its going to be a hassle and replace so I might as well get the whole kit witht he fuelab filter? =\
 
I think it will be marginally more expensive and much easier to swap parts in and out if need be. Also, you'll have less junctions which means less chance for leaks.
 
Thats true but I was going to replace the whole line, the only thing that isn't working with it is the OEM fuel filter. I just really need the line since the fuel filter is new. But I guess another $80 for another filter just has to be saved up which I did not want and was trying to avoid.
 
If you choose to use the blue push lock You can do what i did (was supposed to be temporary but it's still woring fine) I just cut the threaded part off the fuel outlet on the hanger and clamped the -6 blue line to it with 2 small clamps (used two to be safe) and it's worked just fine and not leaked at all. I always test my fuel system but turningthe pump on and cranking the AFPR up to 85psi, and so far so good. hell even the braided stuff is the same ID so a clamp would work there too.. I know some will knock it or say it's ghetto and honestly i have the -6 to 12mm inverted flare fittingin my "earles box" of goodies, i just did it this way because eventually i'll be cutting the OEM hardline out and replacing it with larger stuff as well as adding the 2nd pump again like i did on my FWD tank

Ha that's what I did. I ended up kinking the hose, because the original fitting was rusted together.

You can do that, or just use a flare to AN adapter and keep the hard line on top of the assembly alone.

Welcome to the fuel supply hell that is a 2g AWD

says the guy that uses 75% of the stock fuel line capacity.
 
Guys,
We will be taking that item off of our site immediately, we certainly value your input & experience on this. I guess we were lucky the few times we used the fitting. We will be contacting Frank at RCI to get some of his fittings in stock as it is truly a solution for this issue.

If anyone purchased that Earl's fitting and had a leak we will refund you for your purchase.
Please email us regarding the refund.
 
Guys,
We will be taking that item off of our site immediately, we certainly value your input & experience on this. I guess we were lucky the few times we used the fitting. We will be contacting Frank at RCI to get some of his fittings in stock as it is truly a solution for this issue.

If anyone purchased that Earl's fitting and had a leak we will refund you for your purchase.
Please email us regarding the refund.

:thumb:
 
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