Spyder High Oil Pressure

[spyderdrifter]

So here's the update: I went for a test drive finally, that lasted more than a couple minutes, and returned early yet again. I only got 8 miles on the engine Was cruising along and I'm hearing a scrapping sound just like last time, but slightly louder. Also got fluctuating oil pressure levels that ultimately leveled out at 3/4 way up the gauge before I shut her down back in my garage. Is that a good sign of my oil sprocket/pump issue I had before that caused the rebuild? What made me return home though, was something came off and started flapping around under the hood. Turned out to be my A/C belt had come off the tensioner pulley. Guess I didn't tighten it enough. Easy fix there. Think it's time to stop with the late night maintenance. There's also some faint knocks coming from the cylinder 4 area inside the engine. That's what it sounds like to me anyway. So I am now, yet again, at the mercy of you guys and your ideas, experience, and speculations. Thanks

 

[Spoolin98]

Can you give us some more info...
Is it a new oil pump? OEM?
New gears?
Balance Shafts removed?
Ported oil pressure relief?
What exactly went wrong that you had to rebuild?
Was it a complete shortblock rebuild?

 

[spyderdrifter]

Can you give us some more info...
Is it a new oil pump? OEM?
New gears?
Balance Shafts removed?
Ported oil pressure relief?
What exactly went wrong that you had to rebuild?
Was it a complete shortblock rebuild?

Thought I did give that info; must have been the other post I did that night.
New oem oil pump/ front case grom ExtremePSI.
New oil and crank sprockets, only 2 gears that were replaced.
STM BSE kit.
No porting done since I didn't know about it.
Was a rebuild on the short block and head. Only new parts in block other than what I mentioned already are the pistons and rings, water pump, timing belt, all bearings, and all seals and gaskets. Head got new valve guides and seals and an angle job. Head and block both got hot tanked and decked.

The reason why this all good rebuilt was back in May I replaced the water pump, and choose to replace head gasket and t-belt as well. Got the engine in the car, 4 days later, the oil sprocket bore a hole through the timing cover and the engine didn't jump timing since the sprocket was blocked from completely falling off because the crank pulley kept it in. So because of this, I replaced all those parts. Most I didn't need to replace, but thought it a good idea to do so anyway.

 

[Spoolin98]

I'm assuming you used new oem oil pump gears also?
Did you pack the oil pump?
Did you line up the gears correctly in the pump?
Used loctite on all the front case bolts?
Did the pump spin freely by hand before installing?

What oil pressure gauge are you using?

I'm confused as to what caused the entire motor rebuild in the first place?
If I'm understanding correctly, you rebuilt the entire motor because the oil pump sprocket became loose?

 

[spyderdrifter]

The oil pump was attached to the front case. It's one assembly. It has gears inside it. I didn't take it apart. I tried that on my old one and almost stripped the head of the countersunk screw on the back side. I tried on the new one, but stopped before damaging the screw head, so because of that, I couldn't pack the gears with grease. It spun freely.

The only oil gauge I have is the oem one in the cluster. I'm aware its not the best or even all that accurate, but its what's there.

Yes, that is the reason I wasted all this money to rebuild the engine, partially. Since the timing belt, which was new, then was frayed on the edges because the sprocket slipped, I didn't know the condition of my valves. Had the head inspected and the valves were fine, but the head had a litle warpage. Also needed new valve guides. Decided that if that was going to be worked on, I'd have the block worked on too, to avoid doing one and not the other, and then something else happens. This is why I replaced all my bearings. This was the second time I pulled the engine out in a month and was getting tired of it, so I decided to do everything.

 

[Spoolin98]

How did you delete the balance shafts without taking the oil pump apart? The stub shaft is bolted to one of the gears...
I'm just confused because you said you bought all new OEM parts and if I remember correctly the front case and pump gears come seperatley so you would of had to install the gears in the case.
Either way you had to install the stub shaft so how did you do that?
You DEFINATELY should have disassembled the oil pump and made sure the gears were aligned correctly before installing.
I'm not positive but this could be your problem...

 

[spyderdrifter]

The only piece that has to come off to delete the shaft is the castle plug to allow access to the bolt that keeps the shaft on. Once I got the plug unscrewed, I unbolted the shaft and used the bolt to attach the stub shaft to the new pump. I didn't have to take the pump apart. Even if I took the pump apart, I never would have gotten the shaft off without unbolting it from the gear. My parts didn't come separately, all were assembled and ready for installation.

 

[Marc91utdsm]

Do new oil pumps come primed? I wouldn't think they do.

 

[spyderdrifter]

I'm quite certain they don't. I primed it myself.

 

[Marc91utdsm]

Also when i did my BSE i took the pump apart to unbolt the shaft from the gear, and didn't have to remove the castle plug.

How did you prime it? To my knowledge, you have to take it apart and pack it.

 

[spyderdrifter]

As mentioned earlier, I couldn't get the one screw on the backside of the pump off without stripping it. On the old and new pumps both. So because of this, there was no grease packed in. I primed everything by hooking my drill to the pump sprocket and ran the drill.

How can you remove the shaft without removing the castle plug, unless you did get the pump off...

 

[Spoolin98]

I forgot about the castle plug, I never went that route before, I always disassemble the pump.
As for everything coming assembled, I know that when I bought brand new oem Mitsubishi front case and gears they came seperate. I had to assemble it myself.

So your oil pump came with the balance shaft installed on it and you unbolted the shaft through the castle plug and installed the stub shaft?
If so, I DEFINATELY never heard of a brand new oem Mitsubishi front case coming with the gears and balance shaft preinstalled....

 

[spyderdrifter]

No, only the gears were installed. The BSE kit I bought from STM. OEM front case assembly from ExtremePSI. Couldn't complain about it being assembled.

 

[Spoolin98]

No idea what front case assembly your talking about...cortnei?
Did you mean Topline?

 

[spyderdrifter]

Should have said OEM. I hate the auto correct crap on my phone. Here's the link to the one I bought:
EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts