Sputtering with check engine light

[Talon_Tsi]

Once in a while (although it's starting to become more common) my car will start sputtering and bogging pretty badly to the point where it's almost not drivable at all. The tone in the exhaust dramaticly changes and the car will not rev. This problem is accompanied by a "Check engine" light. After a few seconds, the check engine light goes back out and the car runs fine. The car is lightly moded. Exhaust, MBC, and a Type S bov. Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks.

 

[dirtysouthpinoy]

check the spark plugs? goto autozone and get the CEL code thattll sounds like your misfiring.....

 

[steve]

That's what mine did when the TPS died. You need to read the code to find out whats up.
It so simple to read the ECU codes on a 1G. http://www.vfaq.com/mods/wayback/BradBauer/electrical/code.html

Steve

 

[Talon_Tsi]

Can I still read the ECU code after the Check Egnine light is gone? The light goes out and the problem goes away. The check engine light only stays on for a couple of seconds.

 

[steve]

Most of the codes are retained even though the problem that caused the CEL stopped, until you disconnect the battery or clear them.

Steve

 

[Talon_Tsi]

Using the method found at VFAQs to check my ECU, it looks like the problem is the O2 sensor. Could this cause my problems? It is also vary possible I screwed up testing the ECU, but I figured I'd at least give it a shot.

 

[steve]

You got one long pulse and one short? Or an steady on off of equal length?

I ask cause getting a O2 failure seems to be pretty hard even when it's dead. The other is a heartbeat when there is nothing to report. In which case the code might not have been retained.

Steve

 

[Dieselboy]

If you know someone with a logger, you can have them hook it up to see what code its throwing. A logger will read your O2 values as well, so the bad O2 sensor theory can be dismissed or evaluated.

Also, my buddy had a used Type-S on his 1G and had a similar problem. Come to find out, the diaphram went bad and the valve wouldnt stay shut under any boost pressure at all. I would try retightening your IC pipes, make sure you not leaking any air (perform a leak test if possible). Check to make sure your Type-S is secured to the flange. Check to make sure the gasket is set properly between the flange and BOV, maybe spread a layer of RTV or sylicone sealant between there to make sure.

 

[Talon_Tsi]

If it was a boost leak, wouldn't the problem be more consistant? How could it leak some times and not others, even under full boost (1.10 Bar.) My guess would be that it is something electircal, since the problem only shows up once in a while, usually when I first start the car, and it only lasts a few seconds.