Spring Build 08...

[sniperelite]

Well, just throwing it out there but here are my build plans for this coming year. Let me know what you guys think.

6 bolt block honed and o-ringed
garrett gt35r (anyone selling one in decent condition)
dnp t3 header
pte 1000cc injectors
eagle rods
ross/wiseco pistons .020 over (sending to FFWD to get cryo treated)
FFWD hi-flow fuel system
JMF SMIM
taking head to machine shop to get fully machined
unsure of what company cams to go with but im going 272/272's possibly fp,dks,bc,etc...
probably bc springs/retainers
either fp or dv/dt front mount ic
cop kit
1g tb sent to FFWD for boring and reconditioning

That is the main things I can think of right now. If anyone has any additions or suggestions for things I should remove/add let me know. Also I will be in need of an engine stand if anyone is selling one around the Chicago area or is willing to ship one for a decent price let me know!

 

[We're on Boost]

Man that turbo is crazy....has anyone put it on a 1g or a 2g yet? I wanna see some numbers on them.

I don't know of any yet on 1g or 2g. About a week ago I searched dsmtuners for "HTA" and found pretty much nothing. Right now I think there is a supply problem because I've been seeing posts on evom where guys are complaining that they sent their GT35R in to FP for that $450 HTA upgrade and it's been 5 weeks and they haven't got their turbo back yet! I think I read somewhere that the supply of the special compressor housings is kinda holding things up.

Gary

 

[We're on Boost]

Sounds like a good, expensive setup . I hope to be doing an 08 rebuild, my self. Whats all this stuff I hear about removing balance shafts? Any one done it? Feed back on if its worth doing with a rebuild, proceedures, pros v.s. cons?

I haven't done it on mine so I'm no expert on it. But what people say good about it is it's one less thing that can go wrong with your engine! Also, you stop the oil flow there, so you have more oil pressure everywhere else. And there is less rotating mass (inertia) so your engine could theoretically rev up a little faster - bet that is a small difference, like taking 1 or 2 pounds of weight off your flywheel. And less drag (fewer losses) in the engine. I'm going to leave mine in for awhile, maybe forever. I like SMOOTH, don't like vibration. Also, I'm going to stick with the stock 7500 rpm rev limit for now. I'm going to leave my engine internals pretty stock for now. I'm just going to go ARP head studs, possibly a metal head gasket - but maybe not - a lot of people think the stock composite mitsu gasket is just fine as long as it's genuine mitsu, new timing belt, new balance shaft belt, new tensioners and idlers for those 2 belts (you can buy all this stuff together in like a "kit" from some places), and new 3rd gen hydraulic lifters. The lifters I want to do because since I started logging, I see some knock even with stock fuel and timing on my ECU+, and I don't know if it is really knock or if it is just lifter noise! So heck with that man, how can you tune if you don't have a reliable knock signal! I'm going to get those lifters outa there and put in the quiet ones which are the ones made for the 3rd gen DSM's. Then I'll probably put in cams, FP1's or HKS 264's.
If you are going to go stand-alone engine management or change your eprom to a higher rev limit, then I think that's when the balance shaft thing becomes more important, you know, at 8000+ rpm.

Gary