1G spark issue

[redfield102j]

So i started fighting a idle surge issue and very hard to get to start when cold. Had a cel for temp sensor replaiced with a spare i had. No more cel. Car was still very hard to get running when cold and still had idle surge. I went to a leak test next. Found throttle shaft seals where bad. Replaced and have no leaks. Tried to start it and can not get it to even try to start. So i started checking other basics (fuel/spark) fuel is good plenty of pressure and injectors spay great.. went on to spark next and here is where it gets weird to me.. number1 sparks once when first hit key and then sparks erradically meaning once or twice every 30 seconds or more. Numbers 2 and 3 dont spark at all and number 4 is just like 1 but a little more frequently... tested coil and seems fine has new cas new ngk blue wires new plugs new isc new tps and a brand new ecu. I have replaced almost everything on this motor and am getting very frustrated.. any advice or help would be greatly appreciated.. thanks guys

 

[luv2rallye]

Use must use an analog (needle) meter or a small incandescent light bulb to read the CEL code. Digital meters usually can't read it properly.

 

[steve]

Not having a Haynes manual does that mean the CAS was disconnected or not?
If it was disconnected then a 3v reading would be an ECU problem.

Use must use an analog (needle) meter or a small incandescent light bulb to read the CEL code.

Light bulbs draw 100ma or more from the circuit. I really don't like drawing that much power from the the diagnostic output. I only use a datalogger, multimeter, 12v LED or 12v piezo buzzer that draw at most 20ma @12v. The Buzzer being my favorite when you don't have a datalogger since I find it easier to count the tones than flashes of light for some reason.

 

[redfield102j]

Not having a Haynes manual does that mean the CAS was disconnected or not?
If it was disconnected then a 3v reading would be an ECU problem.

Light bulbs draw 100ma or more from the circuit. I really don't like drawing that much power from the the diagnostic output. I only use a datalogger, multimeter, 12v LED or 12v piezo buzzer that draw at most 20ma @12v. The Buzzer being my favorite when you don't have a datalogger since I find it easier to count the tones than flashes of light for some reason.

Yes the cas was disconnected. And i also have a needle meter i use for code reading. I only use the digital one when i am checking for specific numbers in testing. Weird thing happend today when i went to work on it. It said there was no code so i started the engine to get cel to come on. Sat there waiting and waiting and weirdly enough no cel. Everything on motor appeared to be working properly. So i took it for about a 3 mile ride to see what might happen. Drove and ran well. No cel.. i do need to adjust the idle a little being 1200rpms or so and a double check on the ignition timing. Im thinking im gonna just go with it was a weird fluke and just drive it for now and see what comes in the future... idk

 

[redfield102j]

Update..... i have been driving the car for a little over 400 miles. No issues or cels.. problem seems to be fixed.. so i went on to a couple small upgrades. I installed a aftermarket boost gage. Ran wiring to install a air/fuel gage and a manual boost controler. Before i got to hook up new boost gage "lack of vac tubing" i had to drive it. Was driving along and put my foot down. The car took off like it never has. Maxing the stock boost gage. Seemed to have a ton more power. Didnt make sence to me as i had not adjusted controller.. got home opened hood and noticed the vac line going to controller had came apart making an uncontrolled boost leak and would give me a stagered idle for a couple seconds. I fixed the leak and installed line for boost gage. Driving with new gauge ive noticed car will boost 10lbs almost instantly after reaching about 4500rpm i experience a great deal of boost creep going to almost 20lbs. Not sure why the creep. I would like to adjust the controller but never played with one before. I believe my controller is a bleed style. My question is could i run it inline with waist gate opened all the way for normal boost level and close it to restrict air going to waist gate to up boost level? I am very greatful to all the info you guys have given me has been a great help. Thank you so much