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Something is draining my battery

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elementalwindx

15+ Year Contributor
745
5
Aug 13, 2003
Wilmington, North Carolina
Ok guys this is the first time I've had a problem like this so I'm seeking your knowledge. I have a 90' laser rs turbo. I just replaced the battery, alternator and terminals (with gold ones)

I have a sony cd player and rockforde amp w/ 12" sub hooked up. They all go off when the key is off and the resistor drains of power. I just now unplugged the cd player to make sure that it isnt draining the battery since I'm able to take cd's out when it key has been out of the switch for a while.

Whats happening is when I dont drive my car for a day or two, I can go unlock it, and look on the dash for the open door light and it will be completely off (aka the battery is completely dead), I'll use my battery jumper pack and the car will start right up on the first try and I can drive around and turn off the car and start it back up again, but the longer I wait to start the car the harder it is for the car to start!

Any ideas or methods you guys use to fix this type of problem!? :mad:

I first noticed this happening after I replaced my head and belts, while I was double checking that my lower intake manifold bolts were tight I dropped my wrench somewhere in that area of the starter and made sparks fly and it blew out my in cabin fans 30a fuse in the distrobution (sp) block down by the clutch pedal. I replaced that fuse and the fans work perfectly fine again. I'm wondering if that could be part of the culprit.

Thanks guys.
 
Check your ALT fuse by the battery. Sometimes when sparks fly it goes. If not then I would get that battery checked even if its new.
 
Froyd79 said:
Check your ALT fuse by the battery. Sometimes when sparks fly it goes. If not then I would get that battery checked even if its new.

Greg I agree with this suggestion. I just had to replace the one on my moms car. If its blown the battery will not hold a charge. Have you hooked a voltmeter to it?


Wendy
 
girlieracr4g63 said:
Greg I agree with this suggestion. I just had to replace the one on my moms car. If its blown the battery will not hold a charge. Have you hooked a voltmeter to it?


Wendy

Doin it right now. Call me if you wanna stop by LOL. I'll double check that amp fuse when I get off the PC, cause that is a damn good idea. but I'm wondering about these parasidic load numbers.


I've removed every fuse in the fuse box in the cabin and in the engine bay, and removed the 3 fuses by the battery on that cable, the lowest it will go is 60, or 59.9. I took both the power cables off the battery except the one that goes to the left side of the 80 amp fuse on the big fuse box in the engine bay. That was the only power cable that had any load on it too.

What the hell could be the problem? I am so stumped and do not know what to do next.

I suppose I should mention that the multimeter I'm using is set for 200mA. and 60.** is what shows up on the screen (** being whatever)
 
elementalwindx said:
Doin it right now. Call me if you wanna stop by LOL. I'll double check that amp fuse when I get off the PC, cause that is a damn good idea. but I'm wondering about these parasidic load numbers.


I've removed every fuse in the fuse box in the cabin and in the engine bay, and removed the 3 fuses by the battery on that cable, the lowest it will go is 60, or 59.9. I took both the power cables off the battery except the one that goes to the left side of the 80 amp fuse on the big fuse box in the engine bay. That was the only power cable that had any load on it too.

What the hell could be the problem? I am so stumped and do not know what to do next.

I suppose I should mention that the multimeter I'm using is set for 200mA. and 60.** is what shows up on the screen (** being whatever)

Get the car cranked and then pull off the neg. battery cable. If it dies then there is a good chance its the fuse or the alt. So you dont have a way to test volts?


Wendy
 
girlieracr4g63 said:
Get the car cranked and then pull off the neg. battery cable. If it dies then there is a good chance its the fuse or the alt. So you dont have a way to test volts?


Wendy

Yeah I got 12.36 volts with the car completely off but with all the fuses still in. I'll try what you said above right now. I took out the alt fuse and it looks fine. Although is looked like it has a burn mark on it. I couldn't check the mA with the alt fuse out so I figure if the alt fuse was blown, I would have never been able to do that parasidic test.
 
elementalwindx said:
Yeah I got 12.36 volts with the car completely off but with all the fuses still in. I'll try what you said above right now. I took out the alt fuse and it looks fine. Although is looked like it has a burn mark on it. I couldn't check the mA with the alt fuse out so I figure if the alt fuse was blown, I would have never been able to do that parasidic test.

Ok tried it and it ran like a champ. Even had my stereo blastin with my amp and sub and the car ran strong. Its a brand new alternator so I hope it would be in perfect working order.

Just curious but that little metal thing w/ the mitsu symbol held down by a bolt thats on the tri bar connected to the intake manifold and the block, the tri bar that connects several vac hoses and holds the knock sensor connector, I had that metal thing with the mitsu logo thats connected to the harness hanging there and never had it bolted down (cause I removed that tri bar). Today while I had the battery out I went ahead and bolted that down to the top of the manifold where the main harness and that little ground wire bolts to. Is there anything that I didnt see that could happen when that thing isnt bolted down? What is it anyways?
 
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