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Somebody help me, this 14b upgrade is a NIGHTMARE

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If you are swapping your ecu in and out a lot, you may pulled a wire out of the harness a little. I had a problem with the throttle position wire, when I went over bump the wire would move making the ecu read 100% throttle, dumping fuel and making it bog and stall. Took me a week to figure out what was going on.

See if any readings are weird with a logger.
 
Thanks! I'm gonna check that. As for my Crank Position sensor, I don't know hwo to test that, but I AM getting spark. It's the fuel that I'm missing...How can I check the harness to see if all the wires are correct? I was thinking that too last night - the only way is to use a logger? The car won't even start right now so....

But anyway, how check the crank position sesnor?
 
All sensors are good, ECU is bad...100% true

Tested all the sensors with the Modis - all of them came back as working - got 12V from the injectors

Plugged the ECU in, and put the Modis on the wire thats supposed to tell the injectors when to fire, and got no signal at all. The ECU isn't telling the injectors to come on at all, and thus, the injectors aren't firing.

No fuel means no start.
Phooey.
Without another socketed EPROM, i have to wait another 2 weeks until my original gets back after repair...what LUCK
 
possibly something new...I was reading on dsmchips, and it says that the injector signal is voltage based in the ECU. my battery has been very unstable, we keep having to hook up the battery charger, because the battery keeps dying...

anything you guys think about this? with the charger on the battery, and the battery charged, it shouldn't matter, but I'm just thinking MAYBE this has something to do with it...feedback is appreciated....
 
If you only swapped ECU's and now the thing doesn't start, it's very likely that the ECU is the problem. Common sense tells me that anyway. Have a friend with another to check?
 
It sounds like your ecu is messed up or you have some broken wires/damaged connectors for the no start issue.

As far as the MAS/MAF goes don't bother with it, I spent 3 weeks 3-4 hours a day trying to tune my car on the GM MAS and every time I would get different results. The problem is the GM MAS was designed to be used in NA cars with an intake temp of -30 to 120deg F, but with turbo cars we often see intake temps in excess of 250F on a hard pull even on a good FMIC and a nice 70's day. The only way I was able to get any good numbers was to use a NO2 bottle to soak the FMIC down to frosty temps before every test run, this gets kind of expensive and isn't the best way to do it as your tuning the car for a condition that isn't very common outside of drag racing.
 
yeah I'm not messing with the GM anymore...the simpler the upgrading is the easier it is to diagnose problems(if there are any)

well at this point i actually think its just the ecu because when we plug obdII in, we get all the sensors, and everything, and i don't know how to test for bad connectors, but when its plugged in, we get everything EXCEPT injector pulse coming from the ECU...i wish there was a way to repair this, because as soon as my injectors get a signal, the car will run great, thats what the ecu is chipped for...
 
If you are swapping your ecu in and out a lot, you may pulled a wire out of the harness a little. I had a problem with the throttle position wire, when I went over bump the wire would move making the ecu read 100% throttle, dumping fuel and making it bog and stall. Took me a week to figure out what was going on.

See if any readings are weird with a logger.



ok so after doing a whole lotta thinking and being ready to jump out of my window to get this thing running hahha, i just reread all the posts and if the wire is bad to getting injection pulse and it is somehow removed from the harness - how do i fix that? because that seems to be the only other thing than the ecu...and if the chip is working(which i know it is because I can get select my stutterbox) how do i fix this wire? i tested the wire to find that there is NO SIGNAL coming from the ecu TO the injectors which obviously would make it not fire...i know the injectors have power because they are getting 12v, all the sensors are good, and im still having trouble thinking the ecu is bad, since i can select stutterbox...so how do i fix this bad wire, or really find out if its pulled from the harness?
 
well, back again it seems - don't know if anyone is still reading/helping but i guess it doesnt hurt to keep looking for help.
today i got my stock ECU(STILL WITH THE BAD SOCKET BECAUSE JEFF NEVER GOT IT:notgood: ) back.

I decided to check, to see if the car would run, like it did before with this ECU, since the other one was sent out to ANOTHER place for repair. Well of course I go and plug it in, and of course the car doesnt start, with the way things have been going for me, why would it?

Either way, I'm glad I did, because low and behold, there was no fuel in the fuel rail, although I could hear the pump coming on, it's broke. Upon cranking the car, theres NO FUEL coming through the line.

I had wired the pump back to stock settings, just to try to get the car running again, but apparently, its not working.

Any input on anything would be great, in the meantime, guess I gotta get ANOTHER pump...
 
chiming in...havent read everything here, just skimmed thru.

seems like your relying on your EGT gauge alot. what brand is it? and where is your probe tapped? 1100 at idle seems way off. you have one of those raytek laser temp guns? try again, your egt may be misleading you to thinking you have a problem.

btw, i am not using a FPR. running the walbro255...
 
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