some codes i pulled

[3kgt2nv]

here are the codes i pulled

21 coolent temp sensor
22 crank angle
23 tdc sensor
31 knock sensor
41 injector circuit

the car starts and runs so i dont know if these sensor are bad or if the ecu is screwed up.

these are all active codes. i cleared them and they all returned. i have checked the connections and all are good but i am stumped after that.

ive never seen an injector curcuit code so i dont know what that could be. the others im trying to track them down but the low temps arent helping

 

[razrman8]

And your car runs fine? No, overheating or lower operating temperatures or anything?

 

[Dhan]

Wow, like razrman said, surprised you don't have over heating problems. How long have these codes been appearing and you clearing them been going on?

How does it idle and what are the mods? How do the plugs look?

 

[dahawkster]

I have the crankangle one to and I'm scared its crankwalk.

 

[razrman8]

Yeah, I am highly surprised that it is running fine. ( if it is). This may be a long shot, maybe it could be a circuit problem in the ecu. Dont flame me on it, but they could be on the same circuit or something. You would have to talk to someone that knows more about ecu's. Im not saying thats it, AT ALL. But it is rather weird that it is throwing all of those codes.
Did it just start doing it? Or has it been like that?

 

[3kgt2nv]

i just got it and i knew it had some issues.

it takes about 10 seconds of cranking to start but it has cams so i know this might be explained away as i have seen other dsms with cams need a little bit of cranking to catch. it idles consistant. im not sure what rpm as the tach isnt reading so i have to check the tach gate on the coils since its a 90. but it sounds like around 800-900 range as the engine is pretty quite and the idle is smooth enough to not stumble

since the tach isnt reading that might be the ignition circuit that is screwed and the ecu isnt seeing the rpm properly.

if i try to drive it (im not till its fixed) i went down the road once after clearing the codes to try and log it with mmcd on my palm but it broke up at like im guessing 3 or 4 k under about half throttle.

no overheating i had to rehook up the temp gauge and granted its the stock gauge but the heat was where it should be. i do not know what temp thermostat is in it though. might have a 170 to prevent over heating

i pulled the plugs today they were all dry and whiteish so no running pig rich and they were not beat from running to lean.

now on my 3000gt i had the same issue where it would idle fine but under load it would stumble and it was the ecu so im thinking the ecu might be fubared and its causing the ecu to not read the sensors properly but i dont know.


part of my problem is mmcd o the palm i have isnt reading all the sensors or able to log for some reason so i can just read codes.

tomorrow im checking compression, leakdown test, rechecking for boost/vac leaks
here is the mod list that i know of or have been told
built bottem end
-bored .20 over
-polished and balanced crank
-eagle h beam rods
-wesco 9.1 forged pistons
-balance shaft eliminator kit

about 3000 miles on block

fresh rebuilt 2g head
bc 272 cams
hks valves and springs
new valve guides
2nd gen lifters

new cometic head gasket

evo exhaust manifold
3" exhaust with megan high flow cat

rebuilt trany
-fandanza flywheel
-act 2600 clutch
rebuilt ecu
rebuilt 14b with spare 14b
vac reduction
power steering removed
abs delete
cruise control delete
perfect interior
2g brake upgrade
short shifter
push button start
lowered on megan springs
manual boost controller
oil catch can
new stock fuel filter
upgraded up pipe from ic
turbo timer
chepo autometer boost gauge

************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************

just pulled the coil pack to see if there was anything wrong with it since im not getting a tach signal. this is what i found. in the last photo the circled area is slightly puffed up and the wires look like they are showing surface effects of heat. is this what could be causing my tach not to work?

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[3kgt2nv]

found the injector circuit issue. when removing the coil pack the injector harness for cyl 4 fell off in my hand. this was also the cyl that made the hg fail.

one more problem found and fixed

 

[razrman8]

That's no good, glad to see you're making progress.

 

[3kgt2nv]

would be outside today if we werent getting another foot of snow right now. my snow banks are already taller than the car

 

[razrman8]

I know what you mean. We are supposed to get 2 feet today.

 

[3kgt2nv]

decided since its going to snow all day tomorrow to pull the throttle body and clean and make sure the fiav was deleted correctly as i am finding that this car is in crap tastic condition the more i dig into it. i love people that spend every nickle on mods and zero on maint

 

[3kgt2nv]

found another issue that may have lead to the starting issue. the kid before me did the fiav delete but used a block off plate that also closes off the isc.

how bad is this part messing up the idle and can i modify it to get it to allow the isc to work with the lower half of the throttle removed since i don't have it in my hands?

STM: JMF FIAV BLOCK OFF PLATE | 90-94 DSM

 

[3kgt2nv]

Got my new coil pack wires and plugs, next is the piston rings and timing stuff to do that then set all the timing and restart and see how it runs.

 

[razrman8]

 

[3kgt2nv]

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Why do people work on cars that have no clue wtf they are doing. This is how all my injectors were wired in. The injector clip closest to the timing belt actually fell off in my hand when i moved it.

No wonder people think these cars are jack stand queens! its from lack of proper upkeep and lack of knowledge for many people