2G Slow acceleration. no throttle response

[Big Mo]

Alright, hoping y'all can send me in the right direction.

I have a 95 Eclipse with a T28 Garrett turbo. I picked this car up from a friend. The car has been sitting in his drive way for over 3 years. I got it home drained the fuel, put 91 and injector cleaner, changed the spark plugs, wires, ran a block check for carbon in the coolant none found (no head gasket damage), verified engine will idle, no over heating, oil pressure gauge does not respond to dash but there is pressure (verified), drove vehicle up and down the street and got a DTC P0300.

It doesn't feel like timing is off but it does feel like something is messing with fuel and air compensation causing engine to throw off timing maybe?

The vehicle will slowly accelerate RPMs as the pedal is floored. It does not cap off at any RPMs, just takes forever to accelerate. Replaced the TPS no difference found

Did disconnect the exhaust before the cat and verified no clogged cat.

 

[Vegas Smith]

The first thing to do is always check for boost leaks by doing a boost leak test. I'm not sure what could be causing that misfire as I've never had that code.

 

[rabenne]

P0300 is really common for 6 bolt in a 2g guys. By running both cam and crank signals from the some sensor, sometimes the ECU gets a bit confused, and it will throw the code and then only run on 2 cylinders.

Does your car have a 6 bolt? If it does, the cheapest/easiest way to fix that issue is to put a 10k pot on the baro signal wire and adjust it until the code stops coming back on. If that is the problem, ECMlink can ignore that check for you long-term, and you wont ever have that issue again.

 

[Big Mo]

Ima run a boost leak monday at work but im debating if ima pressurized it or smoke it with the evap leak tester. and also the question i got with either test is what about the intake valves do i gotta remove the belt to shut the valves

i almost wanna say its an under boost issue but i dont like guestamating much ahahha

 

[rabenne]

Smoke is pretty useless on a turbocharged car unless you have the adapters to smoke it then pressurize it. Like the Lisle 69910 which includes said adapter. Even then, smoke is pretty pointless. Just pressurize the system and use soapy water to find the leaks - save yourself some time.

for the valves, you can rotate the engine to get minimal loss through the valves, but they are never all closed at the same time. You will lose air thru the crankcase. This isnt a problem, just set your pressure, spray down every component with soapy water and you will find the leaks (assuming you have some, which is pretty safe as far as assumptions go)

 

[Big Mo]

Ight ill give yall an update after the boost leak

 

[Big Mo]

Any body know off the top of there head a good Apexi AFC Neo setting should be on the mixture

 

[Big Mo]

So update as of 10/21/20 ran a boost leak test... held pressure... new plugs. new wires. new coil pack. new tps. Verified timing. Set to tdc and marks aligned on camshafts. Ran compression all cylinders were around range. Tested injectors at an rc dealer in torrance no issues. Pulled plugs found 1 and 4 burning natural and 2 and 3 wet. Could be flooded or turbo blow out. But yet gap on the plugs were set to compinsate for the turbo. Either down to valve seal damage possible rings or ecm gonna check injectors with a noid light and look for a pulse...... does anyone got any other advise on a route to take i have done alot more test just havnt included em