Slave cylinder, clutch engagement

[td-dsm-scott]

Installed another 90 transmission in my 90 Tsi Fwd, bled the slave cylinder. Stock clutch, stock car.

Engagement was perfect in the previous transmission but now it feels as though I have to seriously push in on the clutch to the floor to engage gears. I've tried attempting to release pressure in the slave cylinder which seems futile since once I close the bleeder and press the pedal pressure rebuilds.

I don't understand why it would be necessary for me to adjust anything else since this was a direct swap. Should I attempt to adjust the pedal as well even though the engagement was perfect before or am I missing something? If it matters I replaced the rubber clutch line with a stainless steel one. Thanks!

 

[ROOKIE1]

It is a 2 person bleed job . With one it will take you forever .

 

[DJYoshaBYD]

si.. try adjusting the shift rod and check the pedals.. also, check to make sure that the clutch line is not bent or kinked in any way..

 

[ROOKIE1]

What is your bleeding technique ? I would not adjust any pedals or adjusting rods . Seems like a band aid fix .

 

[DJYoshaBYD]

you need to try and adjust the rods if bleeding doesnt work.. it may be the issue, and therefor, not a "band aid fix"...

have someone get the bleeder valve loose on the slave cylinder.. have them close just barely tight enough so no fluid comes out.. have the person inside pump the pedal 5-10 times, then press and hold AND DO NOT LET GO.. open the valve, let it bleed, then close.. then repeat the process until the pedal becomes nice and tight..

but he said its too tight, not loose, so that wouldnt be the issue...

so again.. try the adjust the rod and check for kinks and bends in the line.. then, have someone press the pedal, and watch the slave cylinder and watch how it moves..

 

[DJYoshaBYD]

you really cannot "over-pressurize" the line by bleeding it too much.. you are getting alot of pressure from something else

 

[ROOKIE1]

you need to try and adjust the rods if bleeding doesnt work.. it may be the issue, and therefor, not a "band aid fix"...

have someone get the bleeder valve loose on the slave cylinder.. have them close just barely tight enough so no fluid comes out.. have the person inside pump the pedal 5-10 times, then press and hold AND DO NOT LET GO.. open the valve, let it bleed, then close.. then repeat the process until the pedal becomes nice and tight..

but he said its too tight, not loose, so that wouldnt be the issue...

so again.. try the adjust the rod and check for kinks and bends in the line.. then, have someone press the pedal, and watch the slave cylinder and watch how it moves..

I understand and am not arguing the facts . No need to adjust as long as he did in fact bleed it properly . Air in the system will add to the prssure , correct . Also I thought that the bleed valve needed a hose in fluid to prevent air from being drawn back in .

 

[DJYoshaBYD]

no.. I have never used one.. alot of people like to take a cup of fluid and run a tube from the valve to the cup, so IF it does suck anything back up, it will be fluid.. if you do it right, you dont need to..

air will make the play softer in the pedal, not harder (adding pressure).. you cannot compress the fluid that is in the lines with the pedal and it acts as sort of a solid line.. pneumatic pressure requires alot more psi to function in the same way... air in the lines will not be as solid as brake/clutch fluid in the lines, which is the reason we bleed the brake and clutch lines.. to get the air out.. there has to be a clog or something that is making the pressure build up in the lines... does the pedal stick at all?

 

[Defiant]

Read the "how to bleed your clutch" posts in the Technical Articles.