Seeing current in spark plug Cables should I regap my plugs also?

[Norcalgsx707]

Okay so I've been having issues with my car.I tuned the Idle got everything flowing pretty good I go out and and try to do a small pull (of course without tuning) and my car bogged out this is a first time deal I've done-pulls before without it bogging and without a tune and no major problems. So I get home pop the hood and I could see current not arching passing through the two middle wires I"m 99% positive I will need to change the wires but could there be more underlying problems say with the spark plugs not gaped properly (NGK R's laser platniums) . Also I have all Stage 1 minus cams and a Maf mod's with a Big 16g and 680 injectors. Im thinking that I have to much power with crappy wires and not enough gap can anyone confirm or put me up on something I should do

Just to add this in there too I just went over my log I noticed 13 degrees of knock during my miniature pull Id hate to go WOT

 

[DSM1G90]

(NGK R's laser platniums)

Platinum is the worst content to use for any plug that it's very poor in conducting electricity - high resistive material making it the only reason for any user to have them in that they last tonnage of miles.

Good ol' high conductive copper core NGK BPR6ES (for stock and light mods) and "7ES" for moderate mods and higher compression applications (and if still too hot BPR8ES plugs) .. with all gapped at .028 ... and your ignition system will love it as well.

Also, if really want to find better performance, use BR7, or 8ES (non projected) plugs to get the spark away from the center of the compression to prevent being snuffing out.

8mm wires will be better to use than stock 7mm wires.

 

[ManticSHadow]

Okay so I've been having issues with my car.I tuned the Idle got everything flowing pretty good I go out and and try to do a small pull (of course without tuning) and my car bogged out this is a first time deal I've done-pulls before without it bogging and without a tune and no major problems. So I get home pop the hood and I could see current not arching passing through the two middle wires I"m 99% positive I will need to change the wires but could there be more underlying problems say with the spark plugs not gaped properly (NGK R's laser platniums) . Also I have all Stage 1 minus cams and a Maf mod's with a Big 16g and 680 injectors. Im thinking that I have to much power with crappy wires and not enough gap can anyone confirm or put me up on something I should do

Just to add this in there too I just went over my log I noticed 13 degrees of knock during my miniature pull Id hate to go WOT

New wired, throw away those plugs get NGK bpr6es maybe even bpr7es with those mods and gap them down (.28) Id suggest NGK wires too. Also of course your usual BLT.

 

[TSicktalon]

I've always used NGK plugs and NGK stock replacement wires. Never have I ever had any plug/wire related issues.

 

[Norcalgsx707]

So are the plugs creating the Knock

 

[TSicktalon]

It's a good place to start.

 

[DSM1G90]

Could be.

Knock basically come from too high of compression where the fuel explodes in two separate sections in the combustion chamber with one explosion a micro second before the main explosion from the spark.

And this is usually caused by excessive carbon buildup where the carbon is actually glowing white hot that causes this early explosion .. and carbon buildup can be the results from either a rich mixture (in which in boost, the mixture is filthy rich in itself), and/or by a cold or weak spark not igniting all of the fuel.

Get rid of those platinum nonsense plugs and get copper core basic plugs.

Also, best check timing and air filter since these are also in this loop of performance.

good luck - DSM

 

[Norcalgsx707]

Could be.

Knock basically come from too high of compression where the fuel can explode before spark. This effect is actually called 'dieseling' due to the action of a diesel engine where the fuel ignites solely on high compression since no spark is present ..

And this is usually caused by excessive carbon buildup from either a rich mixture (in which in boost, the mixture is filthy rich in itself), and/or by a cold or weak spark not igniting all of the fuel.

Get rid of those platinum nonsense plugs and get copper core basic plugs.

Also, best check timing and air filter since these are also in this loop of performance.

good luck - DSM

I got a cold air intake (injen) so when it "explodes" will that create that sputter/misfire knock problem. I just had the head lifted and installed new Head-gaskets and Arp's, and Im going to go back to NGK's bkr6egp atleast untill I can get some 8's Im wondering if maybe theres a compression problem, im pretty new but I want to cover all bases.

And one more thing is there something I could be doing to burn that gas of with ecmlink?

 

[DSM1G90]

Here's a simple guide: Pull the plugs and tell us what color are the end of the plugs looks like.

If they are black with soot, you're running too rich, or have a super cold plug.

If tan, they're running normal.

If blistering white, they're too hot for your application.

BPR8ES should be the same price as the BPR6ES - about buck fifty a plug.

 

[Norcalgsx707]

Will these work notice that there for a Ferrari I cant find the ones for the eclipse in NGK 8es?

NGK Copper Core 3923 - Spark Plug | O'Reilly Auto Parts

 

[DSM1G90]

It won't list for a DSM since the "8ES" plug were not issued for a factory issues setup where as the Ferrari, in stock form and has high power, needs these "8ES" plug.

Yet, users with high turbo mods uses these "8ES" plus on a normal basis.

 

[Norcalgsx707]

So Im having a hard time deciding I want the best out of the three for my particular mods which are Big 16g, 255cc Whine boro, 680cc Injectors,VRSF FMIC, Cold air intake,AFPR, MLS head gaskets, 3 inch exhaust system,Wideband, IPT shift kit, MBC, im running around 15 psi should I just go with the Br7es?

So I bought the NGK BPR7ES and I can't so enough about how much it improved my idle it lowered the cooling temps too by 3-5 degrees, but now I went from 0.0-0.2 to 22.0 % ft damn car but hey the plugs made a huge difference in idle ignition timing loves these plugs heres the refernce numbers in case anyone else runs into this problme go to the store and give them part # 5534