Seafoam Suicide story (dsmlink log attch)

[nightmares GS-T]

Alright heres the story. Mods in profile are all up to date. Anyways car is running fine im in the process of tuning over time and fine tuning and such. One day i decide to pick up some seafoam and run it in the fuel since its helped greatly in the past. Poured half in fuel and begin to drive. A few days later I am messing around going home from work when i notice it leans out between 5500 and 7k rpms. I get a hint of knock nothing outrageous and the wideband is reading 20.00 from 5500 to 7000. I ignorantly assume its the seafoam mixture causing the knock and the lean condition. Run all of that tank out and fill it up again. Same issue. Crazy thing is I can do this daily and despite the WB readings my egts never go above 1600-1650. Also I NEVER get knock as you will see in the log I posted. The only time I got any knock was with the seafoam in the tank. None since i ran it out. I have verified base fuel pressure and boost leak tested it. I have a slight exhaust leak but once it warms up it stops leaking for the most part. Also have a small boost leak around the intake manifold but its always been there. Running 93 octane. I know in my log my boost est is off my boost is only set to 23-24 psi so if anyone can chime in on how to correct that please do. Also my intake temps seem to be locked at 78-80 degrees so wtf is going on there? If anyone sees any other issues please point them out as I am a noob at tuning with dsm link.

Yea ima dumb ass here

 

[gofer]

No log.

 

[yellow90tsi]

Why did you move your DA tables for octane to 12.0 target? With using pump gas I would move those tabs to the 11.0 range personally to be safe. 12.0 is pretty lean IMO for pump gas.


I didnt see wideband logged, what setup are you using? Did you rename it?


Also your Mafcomp is alittle screwy. I would smooth those numbers out. Did you just do a quick mafadjust and click use template? Thats fine but then afterwords I usually like to go through and smooth the points out making a nice curve.

 

[nightmares GS-T]

Why did you move your DA tables for octane to 12.0 target? With using pump gas I would move those tabs to the 11.0 range personally to be safe. 12.0 is pretty lean IMO for pump gas.


I didnt see wideband logged, what setup are you using? Did you rename it?


Also your Mafcomp is alittle screwy. I would smooth those numbers out. Did you just do a quick mafadjust and click use template? Thats fine but then afterwords I usually like to go through and smooth the points out making a nice curve.

I swapped the octane tables back to stock yesterday. As for maf I used the maf comp tool and adjusted only the top end. I have a glowshift wideband but im not using the data logging output bc I may swap to the aem soon. Another thing I forgot to note is that at wot for a second or two it will spike to rich 10.0 on the wideband before going straight to 20.0.

 

[gofer]

You're asking about a lean condition thats occurring in log, which honestly, doesn't even show the lean condition since you aren't logging the WB. If its doing what you say, leaning out from 5.5k to 7k in that log, I'd have to say that your front o2 sensor voltage doesn't reflect the lean condition. Its possible that if your exhaust leak is AFTER your front o2 and before the WB o2 sensor the "lean condition" occurs because of it.

Fix your exhaust leak, if it still happens replace the WB sensor, because I don't see anything in that log showing a 20:1 AFR after 5.5k.

 

[nightmares GS-T]

You're asking about a lean condition thats occurring in log, which honestly, doesn't even show the lean condition since you aren't logging the WB. If its doing what you say, leaning out from 5.5k to 7k in that log, I'd have to say that your front o2 sensor voltage doesn't reflect the lean condition. Its possible that if your exhaust leak is AFTER your front o2 and before the WB o2 sensor the "lean condition" occurs because of it.

Fix your exhaust leak, if it still happens replace the WB sensor, because I don't see anything in that log showing a 20:1 AFR after 5.5k.

The way the exhaust is setup there are only 2 places to leak. At the head and at the vband to my downpipe. Both of which are before both o2 sensors. So your suggesting the wideband o2 sensor may be faulty?

 

[BoostedBeater]

What, did you weld the turbo to the manifold?

 

[gofer]

The way the exhaust is setup there are only 2 places to leak. At the head and at the vband to my downpipe. Both of which are before both o2 sensors. So your suggesting the wideband o2 sensor may be faulty?

Does your o2 housing delete downpipe have a flex section in between your front o2 and rear o2?

 

[nightmares GS-T]

Does your o2 housing delete downpipe have a flex section in between your front o2 and rear o2?

No its solid

What, did you weld the turbo to the manifold?

forgot to mention that one

 

[yeti-gvr4]

forgot to mention that one

I was hoping u were gonna say yes hahaha

 

[gofer]

The front o2 sensor isn't very accurate to tune from however, its displaying .94v - . 96v in the log between 5.5k to 7k, which can be anywhere from 10.5 ~ 12:1. You are saying the WB gauge is showing a 20:1 though, if that were true the front o2 sensor would have to show a similar voltage reading, which would be .1 or lower. If there's no possible way you can have a exhaust leak between your front o2 sensor and WB o2 sensor then I'd have to suspect your WB sensor is bad.

 

[nightmares GS-T]

The front o2 sensor isn't very accurate to tune from however, its displaying .94v - . 96v in the log between 5.5k to 7k, which can be anywhere from 10.5 ~ 12:1. You are saying the WB gauge is showing a 20:1 though, if that were true the front o2 sensor would have to show a similar voltage reading, which would be .1 or lower. If there's no possible way you can have a exhaust leak between your front o2 sensor and WB o2 sensor then I'd have to suspect your WB sensor is bad.

Alright thanks for the help gofer unfortunately I cant interpret narrow band readings. So possibly the seafoam killed my sensor?

 

[gofer]

Again, the narrowband OE o2 sensors our cars are equipped with aren't anything to tune by but they can at least give you a good idea of whats going on with FT's. The sensor is a 0-1v o2 sensor, so .5v is roughly stoich which is 14.7:1 or so. Any voltage reading greater than that (.8v or higher) is rich and any voltage less (.2v or lower) is lean. I've seen a log of a car going lean at WOT, like 17:1 lean, and the front o2 sensor voltage reflected that reading with a .01v signal. Your front o2 sensor, at least in that log, is showing a .94-.96v reading which would be in the ballpark of a 10.5~12:1 AFR on a WB.

Before you spend the money on a new WB sensor check the wiring and connections to it, then if everything checks good thats the only thing that makes sense to me.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

If you are using a MAF translator, that would account for the 80* IAT reading you mentioned. Your profile says GM MAF, are you running seperate IAT and Baro sensors?

Judging by your narrowband O2 sensor readings there's no way you're running 20:1 AFRs in that log. I would keep searching for an exhaust leak. Maybe have a buddy hold a rag over the tailpipe and see if it starts hissing out somewhere.

 

[BoredDSM]

It really does sound like your wideband sensor is faulty. It isn't unheard of after running seafoam or other combustion cleaners to foul or ruin oxygen sensors or plugs.

 

[nightmares GS-T]

Again, the narrowband OE o2 sensors our cars are equipped with aren't anything to tune by but they can at least give you a good idea of whats going on with FT's. The sensor is a 0-1v o2 sensor, so .5v is roughly stoich which is 14.7:1 or so. Any voltage reading greater than that (.8v or higher) is rich and any voltage less (.2v or lower) is lean. I've seen a log of a car going lean at WOT, like 17:1 lean, and the front o2 sensor voltage reflected that reading with a .01v signal. Your front o2 sensor, at least in that log, is showing a .94-.96v reading which would be in the ballpark of a 10.5~12:1 AFR on a WB.

Before you spend the money on a new WB sensor check the wiring and connections to it, then if everything checks good thats the only thing that makes sense to me.

Alright thanks it reads fine all the time until I go WOT. Ill check everything out to make sure.

If you are using a MAF translator, that would account for the 80* IAT reading you mentioned. Your profile says GM MAF, are you running seperate IAT and Baro sensors?

Judging by your narrowband O2 sensor readings there's no way you're running 20:1 AFRs in that log. I would keep searching for an exhaust leak. Maybe have a buddy hold a rag over the tailpipe and see if it starts hissing out somewhere.

Yes I am using a MAF translator thank you for telling me that I thought my IAT sensor was faulty. Im going to swap to SD soon so thats why I havent got the cable to just use the the gm maf with dsm link.

 

[nightmares GS-T]

the wideband sensor is most likely bad

It was. I had to get a new one which ran me 110$. Glowshift said they didnt warranty the o2 sensor because its considered a wearable Item. Wasn't too happy with them I thought they would handle the warranty with bosch.

 

[50trimgst]

Why buy the glow shift is it even accurate?

 

[Ravenous]

$110 holy bejesus. I know that you can get replacements for the LC1 for $30 to $40 and the AEM for $50 to $60. I would think they would use the same sensor as one of those two. Bosch part #17018 for AEM and #17014 for LC1. Most parts stores will have these units.

 

[nightmares GS-T]

I will probably be going to lc1 before too long. They gave me the part # but I don't recall it and also said I could possibly find it locally but no one around her had it.

Why buy the glow shift is it even accurate?

It's very accurate. And it reads lower and higher than my friends uego.