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SBR exhaust mani and wastgate or SBR o2 housing plus wastegate?

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90AWDTalon

20+ Year Contributor
877
3
Jan 5, 2003
Everett, Washington
I found that the wastegate actuator that I had on my HX35 was sometimes sticking closed and sometimes stick open. So I need to replace it. I don't really want to buy another one of the bullseye actuator's, I wasn't happy with the fitment to start with and now this sticking problem. So I was looking into going external. Currently I have both evoIII exhaust mani and o2 housing.

The SBR mani with 38mm tial cost $500 plus dump tube from dejontool for $40, total $540.

SBR o2 housing with 38mm tial cost $565 every thing needed is included. But I have to get my down pipe reclocked.

So, can anyone give me any info that may assist in me making a decision?
 
I would say go w/ option 1.

Reason being, If you upgrade turbo's later, alot of great turbo's these days are using Mitsu style inlet flanges, instead of a T3 or t4 inlet. The problem is that although these large turbo's have a Mitsu inlet they won't have the Mitsu 5 bolt outlet. Alot will have a Garret 3 or 4 bolt, or have a V band clamp design, thus leaving you SOL on the 02 WG setup. Besides that, refitting a DP can be a time consuming PITA.
 
So I'm about 99% decided on ordering the sbr exhaust manifold and tial wastegate tomarrow.

Next question, whats the best way to deal with the internal wastegate currently on my turbo?
 
Weld the flapper shut....

The mani would be you best bet for the reasons already stated. I wanna do the same thing but Katrina jacked me up.
 
LA97GST said:
Weld the flapper shut....

The mani would be you best bet for the reasons already stated. I wanna do the same thing but Katrina jacked me up.

I don't have a welder or any welding experience, so I will have to take it some where. Do I get it welded in just enough spots to hold it tight, or do I need to get it welded around the whole circumfrance? I guessing the second option.
 
its pretty simple. if you aren't experienced with laying a good continuous bead, just tack one by one on opposing side like you were tightening oil pan bolts.
keep doing it one by one until you have a seal all around. this way you get the desired results but you don't fatigue the metal.
 
90AWDTalon said:
I don't have a welder or any welding experience, so I will have to take it some where. Do I get it welded in just enough spots to hold it tight, or do I need to get it welded around the whole circumfrance? I guessing the second option.

I brought mine to a pro-welding shop and they said that the best way to shut the internal WG hole was to plug it. They ended up plugging the hole completely into the exhaust housing for a perfecly smooth housing. They said since the flapper material and the housing material are different, it would be hard to bond them togther perfectly.

I've got the SBR external manifold and TiAL 38 and have no complaints at all. I have had zero boost control problems since the swap.
 
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