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SBR 3500 Wont Disengage

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4zdinduction

15+ Year Contributor
52
1
Oct 19, 2004
Marquette, Michigan
I just installed my SBR 3500 on my 1g, and cannot put the car into gear while it is running. What is the better fix for this? Shimming the clutch fork, or getting a lengthened slave rod? I dont really want to drop the tranny again...but I dont want to waste money on a rod that isnt going to help. Thanks in advance.
 
I'd say go with the longer Slave rod...dan
 
What did you step the flywheel to? Don't know what the SBR clutches call for, but each clutch has it's own step height for the flywheel to properly engage/disengage. Also, try adjust the clutch mast. cylinder rod.
 
Well, the fork is hitting on the bellhousing, so its time to drop the tranny again and shim it. Let the fun resume :notgood:
 
I am currently having the exact same problem with my SBR3500. I cannot get the car to go into gear. I have tried a longer slave cylinder rod, adjusting the master cylinder rod, new slave cylinder, and I have bled and rebled, still nothing.
4zdinduction:
How tight did you torque the pressure plate bolts? I torqued mine to the factory 16 ft lbs., but I am beginning to think that I did not apply enough torque to the bolts.
 
Well, my pressure plate didnt slide onto the flywheel dowels, I had to pound it on and draw it in with the bolts. I torqued them down to around 16 foot pounds. Did you check to see if your clutch fork is hitting on the bellhousing? If you take the dust cover off your tranny, you can see the fork. Have someone press in the clutch and check to see if the clutch fork hits the bellhousing. If it is, then you will need to drop the trans again, and put a shim between the fork and the pivot ball. That way, the fork will be able to have full throw. A lengthened rod wont matter if the bellhousing is preventing the fork from moving any further. That is where I am at currently with my install, and Im kinda sick of messing with it. Im dropping the tranny on Friday to shim it, I'll let you know if it solves the problem. Good luck with yours.
 
Let me know how shimming your fork goes. When I look through the inspection boot, it seems like I could get a little more travel out of the fork, so I'm going to try replacing my master cylinder to see if that helps anything. If it doesn't, down comes the tranny :cry: Another thing I noticed when I looked through the boot is that the whole clutch plate moves about an 1/8" towards the flywheel when the clutch is depressed, forcing the pressure plate further onto the dowels. Is this supposed to happen?
 
1990EclipseGSX said:
Another thing I noticed when I looked through the boot is that the whole clutch plate moves about an 1/8" towards the flywheel when the clutch is depressed, forcing the pressure plate further onto the dowels. Is this supposed to happen?

No. Nothing is supposed to move, except the fingers of the PP. I converted the PP bolts on my clutch to studs, and used nuts to tighten them down. I torque mine down to 20-22 ft/lbs.
 
NOSLO2PT0 said:
No. Nothing is supposed to move, except the fingers of the PP. I converted the PP bolts on my clutch to studs, and used nuts to tighten them down. I torque mine down to 20-22 ft/lbs.
That is what I was figuring. I also converted my bolts over to studs when I installed the clutch w/ my new fidanza flywheel. I guess I'll drop the tranny and give the PP bolts some more torque.
Thanks
 
If you guys fix this please post up the info because Im about to do the sbr 3500 install with a fidanza flywheel in about a month. By the way, please give some tips, things I should use, need, replace, etc..Thanks!
 
thisdsm said:
If you guys fix this please post up the info because Im about to do the sbr 3500 install with a fidanza flywheel in about a month. By the way, please give some tips, things I should use, need, replace, etc..Thanks!

Get your clutch pedal assembly welded up, then take out all of those band-aid fixes. Longer slave rod, welded nut to the master cylinder bracket, shimmed pivot ball, etc.
 
Did you guys call them yet
They are really cool guys that i'm sure would be more then helpful in geting it fixed

If everyone is having a problem then they need to know how to fix it...you know
 
I call within their hours and nobody answers the shop phone, and I havent gotten any reply to my email over the last week. Im just gonna try the shim today and see how it goes.
 
Dropped the tranny again, and shimmed the clutch, and it still wont disengage at all. Everything looks perfect. The throw is there, the pressure is good (pedal feels heavier that I thought it would be), but it wont disengage. I think there is something wrong with the pressure plate.
 
With heavy pp's sometimes the clutch does'nt disengage as easily...or at all sometimes. I just ran into the same problem a couple months ago when I installed my ACT 2900 w/ ACT streetlite f/w and TRE Race tranny. Cure for me was shimming the pivot ball giving the fork greater travel. There are more options though. Check out Taboo's site for causes and solutions as well. Nice write up.

-Matt
 
I understand that heavy pressure plates are harder to disengage. In this case, the pressure plate is lighter than an ACT 2600, no where near a 2900, and supposed to have less pedal pressure than a 2600 as well. It is also supposed to be easier on drivetrain parts (hydralics, pivot balls, clutch forks, etc). As stated above, I have already shimmed the pivot ball, and it has gotten me no where. Everything seems to be perfect, but the pressure plate just wont let go.
 
I installed a ACT 2600 in my 92 TSI and it would not release. I had to put in a longer slave rod, and bleed the the system of air. Used 1/2 a quart of fluid, before it came out clean and clear. That solved my problem, I now have plenty of adjustment in the clutch linkage. Getting ready to put a SBR 3500 in my other 91 TSI. Will have to do the same thing on that car also. These cars are fun to play with.
 
NOSLO2PT0 said:
Get the pedal assembly welded.

Reread the post. Welding the clutch pedal will do him no good. If he had enough travel for the fork to hit the bell housing, the the pedal assembly is fine.


What condition is your clutch fork in? Did you inspect it closely for wear or cracks?


I would call sbr and see if they have a solution. Keep calling till they pick up the phone. Im sure they will get tired of it ringing if you keep calling over and over again. Also, try to pm Slowboy and see if you can get a response that way. Im not a fan of SBR at all, but Im sure they will try to help your situation. Good luck and let us know the outcome.
 
This is only my first post or so since joining. I am a new DSM owner (91 2wd Lazer, 92 awd Lazer project). Im loving these little cars, that is when they are running. I am having the same issues as above with my 91 2wd, BUT I have made no changes, as in I have not recently installed a clutch or anything. I was just out hot rodding and the clutch stopped disengaging. I limped her home, got up the next morning and jumped on the site here and started searching away. I came across this post. I checked the master cylinder inside the car, it was wet with fluid. I got a new one and also a new slave to go along with it. Replaced both to no avail. I got under the car while someone depressed the clutch to check the slave/clutch fork movement. It was not coming into contact with the tranny housing. I made a longer rod for the slave and again checked travel. It traveled no further. I kind of thought this to be strange. I have one last external thing to try before I drop her, that is welding the pedal assembly. Does this sound like it could be the culprit, and what other advice/ideas can you offer? Thanks alot and great site!!
 
4zdinduction said:
I understand that heavy pressure plates are harder to disengage. In this case, the pressure plate is lighter than an ACT 2600, no where near a 2900, and supposed to have less pedal pressure than a 2600 as well. It is also supposed to be easier on drivetrain parts (hydralics, pivot balls, clutch forks, etc). As stated above, I have already shimmed the pivot ball, and it has gotten me no where. Everything seems to be perfect, but the pressure plate just wont let go.


its a tougher plate than the 2600, just less pedal pressure. It is a heavy pp. or it woudl not hold up to the tq. Now we have had a couple hundred of these installed, with no issues. No i would assume some people woould have the normal band aids with any heavy clutch( longer rod, more adjustment etc) but. i have never had one just not engage. I would be curious to see the condition of the pivot ball, fork etc. If you are still havening troubles call me, email me PM .. whatever you need.. I dont want anyone having troubles and will do what i can to help you guys out.. For the record the Step is the same as an ACT range of step allowance..

Mark
SBR
 
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