2G Saddle/flanged vs split thrust bearing.

[MattiaFTW]

For the people that do not know what happend. Engine started walking. So much so that the split trust bearings in had, where found in the bottom of the oil pan.

So now i got a couple dillema's and i would like to get you guys opinion. As of now the engine is still in the car. But looking with a scope. Alle cylinders look good so do the pistons and rods (Manley) from the pictures it looks like tho that the block itself also suffered damage, and I don't think it's smart to keep using it.

I do have 2 flanged/saddle trust bearing blocks. For the people saying 95-97, hat to break it to you. But one is from an 03/96(EU/GS) and the other 08/98(EU/GS). So they also come in 98 and maybe even 99.

Both engines have around 120k miles and one of the cranks, is the crank that was in the current block (split thrust and which is f***ed)

I couldn't find the info on the forum, so I once and for all want to make clear that : A flanged/saddle thrust bearing girdle does NOT fit a split bearing girdle. Only the cranks are interchangeable. Not the main girdle nor the block itself.

With that out of the way I would like to know if there is any benefit to the split bearing. Is it less prone to Crankwalk. Doesn't it keep better oil flow etc?

If there are no clear benefits, it would be the most obvious choice for me to just take either block I have extra. Clean it up. Bring it to the machine shop and use that. Even if something would be wrong. I have the exact same block extra.

If there is a benefit to the split thrust. Would you recommend looking for a 7-bolt split or a 6-bolt. And which 6 bolt (90-93 or 93+)

Or any other suggestion.

If there are more questions that I did not discuss please let me know. I have pictures but will always be able to make more.

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[pauleyman]

For the people that do not know what happend. Engine started walking. So much so that the split trust bearings in had, where found in the bottom of the oil pan.

So now i got a couple dillema's and i would like to get you guys opinion. As of now the engine is still in the car. But looking with a scope. Alle cylinders look good so do the pistons and rods (Manley) from the pictures it looks like tho that the block itself also suffered damage, and I don't think it's smart to keep using it.

I do have 2 flanged/saddle trust bearing blocks. For the people saying 95-97, hat to break it to you. But one is from an 03/96(EU/GS) and the other 08/98(EU/GS). So they also come in 98 and maybe even 99.

Both engines have around 120k miles and one of the cranks, is the crank that was in the current block (split thrust and which is f***ed)

I couldn't find the info on the forum, so I once and for all want to make clear that : A flanged/saddle thrust bearing girdle does NOT fit a split bearing girdle. Only the cranks are interchangeable. Not the main girdle nor the block itself.

With that out of the way I would like to know if there is any benefit to the split bearing. Is it less prone to Crankwalk. Doesn't it keep better oil flow etc?

If there are no clear benefits, it would be the most obvious choice for me to just take either block I have extra. Clean it up. Bring it to the machine shop and use that. Even if something would be wrong. I have the exact same block extra.

If there is a benefit to the split thrust. Would you recommend looking for a 7-bolt split or a 6-bolt. And which 6 bolt (90-93 or 93+)

Or any other suggestion.

If there are more questions that I did not discuss please let me know. I have pictures but will always be able to make more.

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6 bolt is 90 to 92. 93 94 is 1g 7 bolt. You already know USDSM is 95 to 97 then 99-99. Biggest difference i see in 1g vs 2g 7 bolts is the pil main galleys and squirter design. 1g had its own galley for squirters. 2g feed from the mains. Its been debated to death. In my opinion the 2g problem was compounded by the design change, lack of maintenance and lastly too many people that do not understand clutch hydraulics and the ease that 2g can be overadjusted and locked compared to 1g. I have 2 95-97 2gs, neither of which have clutch issues and neither have thrust issues at 150k plus.

 

[curt-s]

6 bolt is 90 to 92. 93 94 is 1g 7 bolt. You already know USDSM is 95 to 97 then 99-99. Biggest difference i see in 1g vs 2g 7 bolts is the pil main galleys and squirter design. 1g had its own galley for squirters. 2g feed from the mains. Its been debated to death. In my opinion the 2g problem was compounded by the design change, lack of maintenance and lastly too many people that do not understand clutch hydraulics and the ease that 2g can be overadjusted and locked compared to 1g. I have 2 95-97 2gs, neither of which have clutch issues and neither have thrust issues at 150k plus.

Agreed. When I got my 2G, the clutch was installed by a shop prior.. and guess what? overadjusted MC that blocked the fluid return. Thankfully I saved it in time after I bought the car but jeez..

 

[MattiaFTW]

That's some great info. Thanks. In this case I'll probably rebuilt the saddle/flange bearing block and try my luck with that. I do run quite a big setup sometimes pushing 2 bar (~29 psi) it is not my daily so i like pushing the boundaries.

I always had an organic clutch with a quite heavy PP, i think it was a SBC SS, originally Kevlar plate. But that thing failed miserably. Now I'm wondering. Using the stock PP and a 6 or 4 puck sprung disk, wouldn't that be much better for the thrust bearing?

Are there any modifications you have done to the thrust bearing. I have seen people drilling oil gallery holes and other "weird" stuff? I do run a bus delete kit. And an sitting at 5/6 bar pressure from 2.5/3k rom upwards.

Thanks again. And I hope it will help other members.