rs49t or rs60t

[91-gsx]

they both are great turbos, but if i where to run 20 psi on the rs49t and 20psi on the rs60t, would the rs60t be faster at that boost level an higher? and spool time is about 300 rpms sooner on the rs49t, but that is if you are boosting 30 psi, in my dreams.
thanks in advance

 

[Thomas91169]

the rs60t will be faster at the same PSI cause it flows more air than the 49.

though flowing more air comes at a price, a little longer lag time.

i know cause i too will be getting a rs60t and only running 20psi, and being fwd, lag time only helps matters. plus i want something that when i decide to build up the motor, it can throw 30-35psi at it without hesitation.

 

[91-gsx]

when they say it takes 4,000 rpms to reach 30 psi, what gear are they usually talking about? and any other info or experience with these turbos is greatly apreciated.
thanks

 

[Thomas91169]

usually a 3rd gear pull is how they find it.

 

[scottsee]

i know they offer an internal gate on the rs60t but i think thats a little to large for one. i know people run them with little problem. but i havn't yet talked to somone running 25psi+ internaly. people have somewhat accepted the rs49 internaly. alot of people think that turbo is to big for an internal gate. I personaly would get the 60t w/ external. if you ever stroker it you'll have a great 30psi @ 3400rpm turbo

 

[sweet97]

A few things about the RST turbo's.
1. I would get the 60-1 over the 50 trim version for sure as it spools quite surprisingly quick. My RS60T would hit 20psi around 4000 and 22/23 psi a split second longer.
2. I would not attempt 30PSI on one of these as IMHO they are not robust enough for that high a (turbo)shaft RPM.
3. The Bullseye turbine housing and the 38mm internal wastegate work flawlessly. The wastegate only opens about 25% of it's full travel anyways and it holds the pressure just fine.
4. Opt for the AGP billet aluminum actuator as it is MUCH better than the one that comes with the turbo. It has also held 15PSI for me without creeping. It has a very stiff spring/diaphram that will help should you want to get into the mid 20'sPSI range but that should be done on a built motor with cams. I did experience some surge with the stock cams but the HKS 272's eliminated that.
5. Be sure to get the AGP oil feed and retrurn lines as they are top notch, beefy.
6. Prefit the turbo without bolting everything on as most often the compressor housing and center section need to be clocked for best fit to allow the outlet to clear the motor mount easier and for the oil return sections to align better.
7. As the actuator bracket comes it places the arm at a fairky sharp angle to the flapper arm but drilling a hole closer to the bend where the bracket mounts to the 02 housing makes that angle much less, near perfect, no biggie. Mark

 

[tygr]

I just got a rs60 and i'm having trouble gettin it clocked right. i keep hitting the water pipe and the block. ben at agp said it should fit if done properly. did anyone else have this problem? got any pics?

 

[sweet97]

I had to dent the water pipe a bit with a hammer. I have a 1G car. Don't bolt the turbo down tught as you will likely have to clock the compressor and the center section to have the oil drain line up decently. You may avoid hitting the water pipe/block by clocking the compressor housing a bit also. mark
I know there are some pics from a few monthsa ago. Mark

 

[GPTourer]

Whichever one you get, please post a dyno chart of pump+20psi. I am curious if these do anything more at that setting then an EvoIII

 

[yangtech]

i have the RS60T and i didn't have to dent the water pipe...

 

[eclipseGSTud]

i have the RS60T and i didn't have to dent the water pipe...

What psi is your mbc set at? What is the rpm when you get full boost and what fuel do you use?

 

[Turbocharged]

I have the rs49. You dont have to dent the water pipe, just rotate the compressor housing to a position where it fits. AGP return lines, feed lines and actuator are all high quality pieces (much better than the ones I got from SBR with my 2g20g). I run intenally gated and can run as low as 14 psi on the tubular o2 housing. I reach 20 psi by 3700 rpms in 3rd gear.

I wish I had gone with the rs60. Dont get me wrong, the 50 trim can haul ass but I if you are going to be running a built motor/transmission at some point then you should go with the rs60. It all depends on what your goals are. Both turbos are very streetable. Ive already been through 2 different turbos because I wanted bigger (now I want bigger again).

Dont listen to any of the advice from people who arent running a 50 or 60 trim because they dont know what they are talking about.

 

[rowlex]

I had to dent the water pipe a bit with a hammer. I have a 1G car. Don't bolt the turbo down tught as you will likely have to clock the compressor and the center section to have the oil drain line up decently. You may avoid hitting the water pipe/block by clocking the compressor housing a bit also. mark
I know there are some pics from a few monthsa ago. Mark

i had to dent the pipe on my 95 too. not much, but just enough I didn't want the compressor housing to be clocked as far back as it would have needed to fit properly, that would have caused a larger expense in intercooler piping.

However, my 60-1 (same as the rs60t right?) reaches full boost (20 psi) at ~4700 rpm.

 

[Endz0r]

A few things about the RST turbo's.
1. I would get the 60-1 over the 50 trim version for sure as it spools quite surprisingly quick. My RS60T would hit 20psi around 4000 and 22/23 psi a split second longer.
2. I would not attempt 30PSI on one of these as IMHO they are not robust enough for that high a (turbo)shaft RPM.

1. i hit 25psi in my agp49 at less then 4000, probably 3800 rpms with 272 cams.

2. i would say that either of these turbos can run 30psi easy. if my boost controller would hold it, i would have pumped this baby to 30psi. it absolutely screams at 25psi.

 

[cfisher]

Clock the turbo one side at a time. 1st clock the exhaust side so your return line matches up and then clock the snail so your I/C piping fits. Then tighten down all the bolts and your done. I have a 98 and you should not have to dent the water pipe at all.

 

[maximumbob]

Mine hits the banjo bolt for the water line to the old turbo. The pictures from a few months ago show that using a plug will eliminate this and allow you to clock the snail housing much better.

 

[b17tuner]

Hey thanks cfisher you post helped me. Trying to get shit to line up was pissing me off forgot the center section could move.

Thanks,
Brian