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Tsibred1

15+ Year Contributor
139
1
Mar 5, 2004
New Berlin, Wisconsin
Welp this has to be the most annoying thing I have ever done with a car ever. The fuse box is in the dash now (glove box) the engine bay side has the harness split into 6 smaller harnesses now that pass under the transmission and through the firewall. I need to go through and remove all the over spray now and just clean up the firewall junction since the battery cable is all crazy right there now after the battery relocation as well.

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So did you just extend the needed wires or how did you end up doing it? I have heard of people doing it and that looks CLEAN, I may have to do it. I know you said it was a PITA but I have some Honda friends that love tucking wries and what not.
 
So did you just extend the needed wires or how did you end up doing it? I have heard of people doing it and that looks CLEAN, I may have to do it. I know you said it was a PITA but I have some Honda friends that love tucking wries and what not.

three words for you having friends that like tucking: CHA ####ING CHING.

Seriously having some one there to mark the wires as you cut and solder would have made this alot more tolerable. I think the most difficult/annoying part was stripping, soldering and wrapping the wires that were 20-22 gauge at the center of the loom. That and a substantial amount of the wires loop back into themselves, so if I had cut oh lets say 8 inches lower I most likely would have had 10 less wires to do at least.

Basically its very very straight forward.
Cut the FUSE box harness and either a. mark both ends of the wire like this:

TAPE LABEL------ CUT ----------- TAPE LABEL

or just cut it, then solder in the extension wires, then mark the end of the extension wires with the color coding of the wires, make sure to look very carefully as some has long thin silver dashes, some have double thick, some double band, some single side dash. Then wrap all connections. Now take 5-6 wires at a time and wrap them every 1.5 feet to keep them together. Take two of these harness and wrap the outside so you make one double thick harness. Feed the harnessess under the transmission mount, and behind it/under batter tray/next to fuel filter, you will see a rubber boot. You are going to need to cut the boot, and remove the plastic spacer inorder to pass the wires through. After that wrap the harness with the engine harness in a rubberized tape (This will protect the wires from rubbing the firewall and seal the hole. On the other side begin soldering the harnesses you made into the wires cut on the fuse box. Notch the glove box to slide the fuse box into and boom there you go!

Most of these steps if you get confused are shown above, the harness, the wires below the mount, etc. Make sure to use the same gauge or higher than factory to make sure you don't have any issues. Most of the factory wires were thicker than the same gauge wire, meaning their outside sheath was a bit thick than some contractor wire, while the contractor wire had a much harder outside layer.
 
Did you do this for looks? Or are you going to use that area for something else?

Only for looks, wish I had some grander reason, but to be honest I'm in love with tucked Hondas so I decided to do what I can with the motor in. I'm going to be extending and customizing the other side of the bay too for the injectors, ignitor and coils as well. Odds are end of the season this year I'll pull the motor again and fill all the holes, open the harness and remove all wires unused, and change all the brake lines to run on the otherside of the firewall and ditch ABS.
 
Confusing. I can't believe how confusing.

I do alot of wiring normally so basically it just looks like two solder connections to me, it wouldn't matter how long you extend it or where you put it, a wire is a wire, and a current is a current. (If anyone feels like being anal, yes I understand at a point that isn't true.) I mean this is simple to me, but I can't figure out for the life of me how people do fiberglassing, that shit is just obscene to me. Wiring is just one of those things when you break it down, its really simple, just obscenely time consuming. I also extended the hazards and defroster buttons to the ashtray on the interior since that panel of the gauges is blocking where they mount.
 
Definitely cleans the bay up a lot! I thought about doing it to my previous car but didn't feel like going through the hassle. Wiring isn't too bad if you work slowly and have a plan of attack but it takes so damn long. Looks good.:thumb:
 
Sounds pretty straight foward. I was just going to do a slight tuck (reloom everything, get rid of what I don't need, lengthen injectors clips, and hide some stuff behind the SMIM but my buddies have me thinkin an in depth tuck now, LOL.

I too love the look of tucked Honda's, my H22 EG has a full tuck and it looks great, then engine bay is the only part of the car that does, HA!
 
Sounds pretty straight foward. I was just going to do a slight tuck (reloom everything, get rid of what I don't need, lengthen injectors clips, and hide some stuff behind the SMIM but my buddies have me thinkin an in depth tuck now, LOL.

I too love the look of tucked Honda's, my H22 EG has a full tuck and it looks great, then engine bay is the only part of the car that does, HA!

Damn N/A has such a god damn advantage for tucking in the bay. Doing this I realized how many sensors and wires are forward of the block unlike hondas only have the fans with the rest being able to be run through the fender for lighting and acc. Gutting the DSM harness of everything you don't need is really going to be the only way to do it since we have so many useless solenoids in the bay.
 
Also, the vacuum manifold helps alot for hiding alot of the tees and excess lines that you need to run. Honda-Tech's Fast Turbo has a really good unit thats pretty cheap, they shipped fast and it looks nice, so just a suggestion. It also allows you to run braided vacuum lines!!! I can't because the HKS is threaded for them, but I will be running braided coolant lines to the turbo.
 
Also, the vacuum manifold helps alot for hiding alot of the tees and excess lines that you need to run. Honda-Tech's Fast Turbo has a really good unit thats pretty cheap, they shipped fast and it looks nice, so just a suggestion. It also allows you to run braided vacuum lines!!! I can't because the HKS is threaded for them, but I will be running braided coolant lines to the turbo.
I might have to check that out.

Also, is that carpet new?? I got a new carpet and cutting and fitting that thing is turning into a PITA just in itself. If it is new, where'd you pick it up from?
 
I might have to check that out.

Also, is that carpet new?? I got a new carpet and cutting and fitting that thing is turning into a PITA just in itself. If it is new, where'd you pick it up from?
When I picked up the black dash, the guy had the black carpet as well so I'm unsure as to where its from. Even with what he had done, I still had to cut alot of the holes in it to get it to fit and some areas still are a bit short, namely the center console next to the driver's seat seat buckle. Fortunately, you can't see this area at all but it will most likely be something I'll replace over winter just ###. The biggest annoyance with the carpet is that it doesn't have the plastic tabs that the factory does for clipping onto the ridge below the door trim. I'm still not sure how I going to secure it, but I definetly see silicone adhesive caulk in the future.
 
I just got a migraine. Thanks.






Great show of temperance and cool-headedness. :thumb:
 
I was reading that you can tuck the fuse box somwhere else in the engine bay, near the tranny I think.

Thats true and false, I mean you can MOVE the fuse box down by the transmission, but you still have the huge ugly harness hanging around, the way I did it put the intire harness under the passenger framerail under the transmission mount.
 
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