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[RESOLVED] Timing Belt replaced, no compression, no start.

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Turblown

15+ Year Contributor
220
7
Oct 9, 2003
Phoenix, Arizona
1991 NT. I have done some searching. Okay, I was driving home from work and in the middle of a left hand turn my car dies. I can crank it, but no start. I get it towed home and remove the upper timing belt cover. My timing belt is shredded on the edges, but still in tact. I did not want to do a compression test at this time since parts of the belt were falling off. I removed the lower timing belt cover to find my balace shaft belt in pieces. I used my Hayne's manual and the VFAQ to replace the balance shaft and timing belts. I accidentally turned the crank while the timing belt was off, but the cams were lined up for TDC. I lined up all of the timing marks, verified TDC with a long screwdriver and finished the install. The car would not start. Fuel is good, spark is good, but I have ZERO compression. During the compression test the car acted the same as when it stalled, cranks but no start. There were no sounds of internal engine damage either time. After the compression test I checked the timing marks, and they are all way off. Please see my questions below. Thanks for all of your help!

Question #1: Does NO compression absolutely mean bent valves? Should I pull the head?

Question #2: If I attempt to start over, what do I need to do differently from the VFAQ since I rotated the crank with the belt off? How do I verify TDC now that the timing is off?


Question #3: In the Hayne's manual and the VFAQ it mentions the cam gear marks being off by 1-2 teeth at TDC. The cam gear marks are off when the belt is off and then when I tension the cam gear and put the timing belt on the cam gear marks should line up correct?

Question #4: The VFAQ says to start putting the belt on at the cam gears (which is what I did), the Hayne's manual says to start at the crank gear. Which one is right? Does it make a difference?

Here are some pictures:

Timing belt and shredded edges.
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Old balance shaft belt and new balance shaft belt.
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Cam gear marks.
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Crank and Oil marks.
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Question #1: Does NO compression absolutely mean bent valves? Should I pull the head?

Question #2: If I attempt to start over, what do I need to do differently from the VFAQ since I rotated the crank with the belt off? How do I verify TDC now that the timing is off?


Question #3: In the Hayne's manual and the VFAQ it mentions the cam gear marks being off by 1-2 teeth at TDC. The cam gear marks are off when the belt is off and then when I tension the cam gear and put the timing belt on the cam gear marks should line up correct?

Question #4: The VFAQ says to start putting the belt on at the cam gears (which is what I did), the Hayne's manual says to start at the crank gear. Which one is right? Does it make a difference?

#1.) Since your timing belt is off, no compression could just mean that the valves are open in the cylinder or it's off time. Compression testing is meant to be tested on an assembled timed block and head, mainly to check for valve seals/bent valves/bad rings/worn cylinder walls. With the timing belt ON no compression means that there is A: a bent valve; B: Timing is off; C: Valve not seating correctly... I recommend triple or quadruple checking the timing before a crank, and if compression fails, time to pull a head :(

#2.)TDC should be the timing mark on the crank pulley matching the mark on the block. If you're unsure place a dowel rod or long screwdriver into cylinder #1 and when the piston is at it's highest point that "should" be Top-Dead-Center. (Which you said you did :) )

#3&4.) It's a little finesse here. What I did was line my cam gears up as the Haynes/vfaq shows and then used cheap spring clamps and clamped the belt on the cams then proceeded to adjust the crank and oil sprocket, but that was my method.
 
#1.) Since your timing belt is off, no compression could just mean that the valves are open in the cylinder or it's off time. Compression testing is meant to be tested on an assembled timed block and head, mainly to check for valve seals/bent valves/bad rings/worn cylinder walls. With the timing belt ON no compression means that there is A: a bent valve; B: Timing is off; C: Valve not seating correctly... I recommend triple or quadruple checking the timing before a crank, and if compression fails, time to pull a head :(

I did the compression test once I put on the new timing belt. I'm not sure how you would even do a compression test with out the timing belt on. Your valves would either stay open or closed the whole time, making it impossible to build compression.

#2.)TDC should be the timing mark on the crank pulley matching the mark on the block. If you're unsure place a dowel rod or long screwdriver into cylinder #1 and when the piston is at it's highest point that "should" be Top-Dead-Center. (Which you said you did :) )

The crank pulley is off at this point, so I'm just lining up all of the timing marks. As you've stated, I am using the screwdriver method.

#3&4.) It's a little finesse here. What I did was line my cam gears up as the Haynes/vfaq shows and then used cheap spring clamps and clamped the belt on the cams then proceeded to adjust the crank and oil sprocket, but that was my method.

Thanks for the input.

UPDATE: So I finally got some time to look at this again. I started over and used the Hayne's manual instead of the VFAQ to install the timing belt correctly. I found it was easier to follow. I got all of the marks lined up and the tension for the belt correctly set. I rotated the crank 6 times as is required and all of the timing marks look good. I went to start the car and no go. It sounds the same. I decided to do a Leak Down Test this time and I'm getting 100% leak by in all four cylinders. It sounds like it's my intake valves. My next step is to pull the head and assess the damages. Any input is appreciated. :thumb: Thank you.
 
Ouch, I'm sorry to hear that. Sadly, when a timing belt goes on an interference engine, there is a 90% chance that some if not all the valves are bent. Especially if the belt went while you were driving. I hope that all is well with your valves,....just be prepared for the worst, then it wont seem as bad. That's what I do...
 
It sounds like it's my intake valves.

I hate it when I'm right. :ohdamn: All 8 intake valves are bent. I've been looking to go turbo for a while, so this is the perfect opportunity. Guess I'll be driving my ugly parts car for a while. Thanks for all of the help. :thumb:

Intake valves.
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Intake valves close up.
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Top of pistons.
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Top of pistons close up.
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Sorry to hear that. All the intake valves touched. Like you said, this is the perfect time to go turbo. Take your time and get it right the first time. You won't be dissapointed. It's a good thing you have a spare car.
 
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