[RESOLVED] My first time is rapidly approacing

[unior]

Actually on mine for whatever reason, it is a black wire. I finally went to the wiring diagram for the ECU, and probed the RPM one with a voltmeter and the engine died. I remembered that happening when I was probing away on the 4 wires where the RPM wire was supposed to be. I checked continuity and it was the same wire. And it was black!?!? Oh well, at least I know which one it is.

Oh, and another discrepency: my 92 takes brake pads for a 91. That sucked cuz I had some Metal masters for a 92. The 92 ones fit the rear, but the fron 92 metal masters were too big so I had to do autozone's in the front. So, remember all, the birthdate of your car is important when ordering parts.

Peace

i believe the early 92s - like my laser (manufactured in late 91) have the small single piston brakes - whereas the later 92's had the big brakes

 

[awd4g63]

Actually on mine for whatever reason, it is a black wire. I finally went to the wiring diagram for the ECU, and probed the RPM one with a voltmeter and the engine died. I remembered that happening when I was probing away on the 4 wires where the RPM wire was supposed to be. I checked continuity and it was the same wire. And it was black!?!? Oh well, at least I know which one it is.

I might have meant black Maybe it's a white wire coming from the MAFT and a black wire coming from the CAS. I looked at a wiring diagram, too, so you're probably right.

Glad to hear you liked your mods and going to the track. When are you going to post the times?

 

[bosljeff]

I might have meant black Maybe it's a white wire coming from the MAFT and a black wire coming from the CAS. I looked at a wiring diagram, too, so you're probably right.

Glad to hear you liked your mods and going to the track. When are you going to post the times?

No worries. All over the net and in Hayes/Chiltons it said the white wire. So god only knows.

Time will be posted today. They weren't great, but I don't need to post a 'first time at the track what went wrong thread' cuz I know I shifted early in 1st and the low boost sure as shit didn't help.

From memory I remember my RT was .2 something, my mph were over 87, and I think my time was 15 something. Not great, but I know it would have been better had I been able to go another time. Damn!

I just found out there are at least 5 more races in Boise I can attend. So I am stoked.

Later,
Jeff

 

[bosljeff]

Okay here it is:

R/T: .224
60': 2.097
330: 6.443
1/8: 9.936
MPH: 71.48
1000: 12.953
1/4: 15.521
MPH: 87.91

Not great, but I know I will romp some ass at the next race when I remember to actually hit the over take boost button. Damn!

 

[awd4g63]

You should be able to drop your et and raise your mph with the setup you have. You could also lower your 60' to a 1.8 or so, too, even with a stock clutch.

 

[bosljeff]

You should be able to drop your et and raise your mph with the setup you have. You could also lower your 60' to a 1.8 or so, too, even with a stock clutch.

Yeah, I figured as much. Spending 8 hours or so for that grudge racing stuff to run only once really hindered my ability to test, tune, and learn.

However, Boise is having 5 more races that I can compete and only one of them is a test and tune day, the others are actual races i.e. 3 test runs with at least 1 real run.

Like I said, I tend to shift early cuz I got all gun shy with fuel cut with my old set that did not have a fuel pump or good boost control.

Is that a good RT though? Really newbie question here: where in those numbers is my ET? Is there some of that new-fangled math that has to be done?

Yeah, it is hard to learn from my run: the launch seemed awesome, but my earlier shifts were probably a little early probably 5700 or so (shift lite set at 5700-5800). Again, I was retarded and forgot to run full boost.

I'll have to do a couple of runs in the boonies and see where fuel cut actually happens (if at all) with my set up now. I imagine I can easily shift a little before redline and be okay. I just need to trust my ride I guess.

Thanks for all the help.

 

[pianoman]

i've had three dsm's, they all had hacked mas and fuel pumps and i ran 18-19psi all day long and never hit fuel cut. by they way why do you have your shift lite set so early, you should be able to atleast get up to 6000-6500 before power drops off, or was it cause you wern't sure if fuel cut was gonna happen?

 

[bosljeff]

i've had three dsm's, they all had hacked mas and fuel pumps and i ran 18-19psi all day long and never hit fuel cut. by they way why do you have your shift lite set so early, you should be able to atleast get up to 6000-6500 before power drops off, or was it cause you wern't sure if fuel cut was gonna happen?

Well, I might raise the boost. The profec is in bars and I can't find my conversions, but I am very sure it is at 18 psi (with the over take boost activated).

As for my shift lite, I will go for varying points between 6 and 6500. Yeah, I was just all paranoid of hitting fuel cut and looking like an ass in front of an audience, especially if I only got one run.

Thanks.

 

[CanadianTSi]

Your ET = 1/4 mile time. Your R/T has nothing to do with your 1/4 mile time so don't really worry about it.

1bar is 14.7 psi BTW

 

[bosljeff]

Your ET = 1/4 mile time. Your R/T has nothing to do with your 1/4 mile time so don't really worry about it.

1bar is 14.7 psi BTW

Oh yeah, Elapsed Time, that makes sense. I actually knew that.

Thanks for the bar info too!

 

[bosljeff]

Okay, I need some help here.

Here are my profec settings:

Low boost: .8 bar/11.603 psi
High boost: 1.1 bar/15.95 psi
Shift lite: 6,000 rpm.

Now, when I launch hard and only run low boost, I am able to go to 6k rpm, shift, and continue to do so throughout the gears...

However, when I use my overtake boost button (high boost) and launch, I am lucky to hit 13 psi without hitting fuel cut. This happens throughout the gears. However, if I do a rolling start, I can ease into 6k without fuel cut and then I can hit almost 1.1 bar. But, if I do a real "drag racing" run, if I get into the high rpms quickly (like you do) I start stuttering and cutting out like mad. The only way I can prevent it is to shift way early before I run out of power which makes no sense.

Shouldn't I be able to run nearly 16 psi with my set up? Any boost over 12 psi causes cut and that doesn't seem right.

Could it be a boost leak...? I have read all kinds of stuff on fuel cut I just wanted help on my specific situation. Again, I have the walbro 255 re-wired, no air can, 1 honeycomb removed, and that is all I can think of in regards to air/fuel.

Please help, cuz I know I should be able to shift at 6k and run at least 16 psi.

Thank you.

 

[pianoman]

do you have your lower honey comb removed? cause if not that may be causing fuel cut. thats why you take it out so you can up the boost with out fuel cut being hit. and yeah you should be able to run way more boost then what your running, what about a boost leak?

 

[awd4g63]

You really shouldn't be getting fuel cut, considering if things are all as they are supposed to be (ie: vacuum lines, etc), especially since you hacked your MAS and put a 255 in there. First things first: check for boost leaks.

As for the reaction time, it doesn't affect your ET It's a means of constituting a 'fair' start. At most dragstrips, they have a limit of .500 of a second before you receive a redlight (ie: if you get a reaction time of .497, you redlight). Some strips have this set to .000. Your ET clock doesn't start tickin' until you leave that line, no matter what your reaction time is. For example, if you leave the line with a 2.544 RT and your opponent leaves the line with a .544 RT, and let's just say you run equal times, you'll both get an ET, he'll just pass over the line 2 seconds before you do, and he'll win.

If you're only 'testing' and 'tuning' at the track, don't worry about the RT. It's only when you're racing competitively that it affects your outcome.

 

[bosljeff]

Thanks guys. I'll do a boost leak check.

Real quick: the boost leak "tool" I found connects to the inlet side of the turbo. Does that seem like a pita to you, taking out the filter/intake? Isn't there a way to connect it to an intercooler pipe somewhere or something?
Also, if when eliminating my aircan, I re-routed vacuum lines wrong from the nipples on the can, intake pipe, and coming off the valve cover; could I screw up some reading on that little selenoid lookin' thing that is near the top of the filter? If you need more details ask and I'll try to be more specifi. I just remember there is a selenoid with 2-3 nipples on it, 2 different nipples on 2 different spots on the base of the filter area another on the intake pipe, and there is also the line coming off the valve cover.

Thanks...

 

[bosljeff]

Well, shit. Since the above post I have installed a load of new stuff (see profile) and i still have fuel cut. I have a freakin evo316g and I still can't run boost over 13+/- w/o fuel cut. I will do yet another leak test, after that, i don't know what the hell to do...

I just got back from another race and my times were slightly better but still I ran 14.7ish and only 93 mph, with .077 rt. And even then I had to switch to "high" boost in 3rd gear (couldn't launch or run 1st and 2nd with it) and shift early to avoid the fc. wtf!

 

[pianoman]

When you say fuel cut, you mean the car feels like its running into a brick wall? Or is it studdering?

Maby try a diffrent mas or ecu?

 

[bosljeff]

When you say fuel cut, you mean the car feels like its running into a brick wall? Or is it studdering?

Maby try a diffrent mas or ecu?

Kind of a combo of both, like I'm driving through several brick walls...why what are you getting at? Overall it is a very, very violent studdering as if my car suddenly turns off and if I keep on the throttle it just keeps violently jerking down the road...

Thanks.

 

[pianoman]

yeah thats fuel cut. If it was a small studder at high rpms then i would say maby denotation, or plugs or wires. But fuel cut defintly feels like you hit a wall. Do you have access another mas and ecu?

 

[bosljeff]

yeah thats fuel cut. If it was a small studder at high rpms then i would say maby denotation, or plugs or wires. But fuel cut defintly feels like you hit a wall. Do you have access another mas and ecu?

You mean a 2g mas or gm mas? What do you mean another ecu? A dsm one, or some stand alone?

I just did another leak test and at 18 psi I hear air around the tb, and when I cupped my hand over it, it seemed to muffle it, but I'm not sure where that leak could be. Maybe the seams/gaskets between the elbow and the tb and/or the seams/gasket between the tb and the intake....? It oddly seemed like it was coming from the tb spring. I might have enough air in the compressor to try again with soapy water....ideas?

 

[bosljeff]

Okay, here is where the bubbles appeared. I had limited air, so there could be more leaks:

the seal between the tb and the tb elbow
my idle adjustment screw....?

Now, I'm assuming a new gasket for the tb (both sides) would be in order. What the hell do I do about the idle screw thing? Order a new o-ring?

Could this be the miraculous cure-all that would solve all my fuel cut/idling at 6-8 vacuum/other problems?

Thanks.