[RESOLVED] misfire help P0300 - ISC & coil results

[bboyalan]

Hey guys! I've been trying to fix this w/ my dad since Friday night, but I must resort to asking for help now as it is simply too time consuming w/ college and all...

Long story somewhat shorter [so I can explain the current situation]:
-A'PEXi dp + high flow cat installed friday noontime [nice, powerful drive home]
-installed boost/vac gauge on that friday afternoon [easy source taps]
-tried drilling through passenger footwell w/o looking
-ended up going through steering wheel boot [success!]
-key in ignition = no go for instrument cluster
-car would crank, but not start
-ends up I drilled through the wires behind and beneath the battery...
-reconnected and wrapped up wires
-car cranks, starts, but has terribly low, bogging idle [200RPM near death]
-smells like unburnt gas [not enough air in mixture for combustion?]
-checked plugs and wires
-replaced 1-month old NGK G-power platinums [toasted] w/ *new* NGK iridiums
-did the throttle SAS + BISS adjustment properly to help idle @ 400-500 RPM
-test drove and had POOR acceleration + threw p0300 code for random misfire
-erased code & grounded the brown plug for ignition timing adjustment
-boost and vac leak check
-test drove again w/ the same poor acceleration, P0300 code, but <400RPM now

SO NOW [and I apologize for the brief summary] I'm here w/ some diagnostics/results and hoping to get some good direction and recommendations. We pulled the plugs out after the code was thrown to see if any weren't firing and they all checked out okay. I also tested the ISC [Idle Speed Control] and came up with 41 Ohms on each [supposed to be 28-33]. In addition, I tested both the primary and secondaries of my coil pack. The secondary checks out within proper range, BUT the primaries were showing 11.2 for each [should be 0.70 - 0.86]. My NGK wires are 1-month old and have good resistance in them.

What should I be testing for or replacing next? I have such a terrible headache from thinking about this on the constant and I've devoted practically ALL of my study time towards searching the forum + trying out new things. If there is any other information that's needed, then I'll try my best to provide them. Any help is appreciated!

ps: this thread seems to have a similar problem minus the first half of b.s. I had went through.

 

[super97gst]

My parents and friends have all told me to sell me car for a while now and buy a new car. I told them the same thing I tell everyone else.

I love the car. Despite the fact that it hasn't run right EVER since the day I got it, I still love it. DSM 4 life.

Tom

, i know how that is. my parents and a couple friends have been on me for the last couple months to just sell the POS. i really think if i couldn't ever figure out what was wrong with it i wouldn't sell it. i just love the car that much. does that sound a little weird?

 

[Artago]

, i know how that is. my parents and a couple friends have been on me for the last couple months to just sell the POS. i really think if i couldn't ever figure out what was wrong with it i wouldn't sell it. i just love the car that much. does that sound a little weird?

Yeah I know how you feel. I'm addicted to this car. Even though the POS gives me problems every day I still love to drive it. My hope is that one day (in the near future) it will run the way it's supposed to run. I know that day is coming because the car is getting better and better every time I work on it.

 

[super97gst]

Wish i shared your enthusiasm and success. however this po300 problem that i've been having is the first time i've ever had any kind of problem whatsoever. and i have had the car for about 5 years now. that's pretty good for a dsm.

btw, i started another thread up for mine, tom, if you and bboyalan want to jump over on it feel free. I just wanted to see if we could get some more input, so check in from time to time if you want.

 

[bboyalan]

update:

And I'll quote my dad... "this car is haunted by a f*cking ghost." /quote .

Car is back to where it was a few posts ago w/ 850-950 idle surge and still hesitating after 3k rpm. I was wondering if the turbo was going bad because of the tugging/hesistation and slow boost building approaching my 3k mark [then again, it could be that leak]. I went ahead and checked out the turbo for shaft play. Honestly, for 140k original miles, this turbo is pretty rock solid. Very little side-to-side and in-to-out shaft play. It was hardly noticeable really. I've attached 2 pictures to show how surprisingly clean it was too [I was almost hoping for oil and a crap turbo so I could have a solution hahaha].

PS: I totally agree w/ you guys though. This Mitsubishi is sex on wheels [next to a 3000GT ;P] and I definitely want to hold onto this one. It's just such a headache trying to figure out what EXACTLY is going on and causing the trouble.

 

[Artago]

^^ Is your P0300 code back?

 

[bboyalan]

^^ Is your P0300 code back?

ACTUALLY, I haven't seen a CEL for 1 week and 3 days *knock on wood* as I just mentioned in Blake's thread. It sucks that we all are experiencing one problem after another =/

 

[super97gst]

ACTUALLY, I haven't seen a CEL for 1 week and 3 days *knock on wood* as I just mentioned in Blake's thread. It sucks that we all are experiencing one problem after another =/

i'll second that, BUT, there absolutely has to be one certain thing that started this for all 3 of us. If one of us can just finally find that one thing we'll solve a big problem for a LOT of people on this site. What i don't understand is why the ecu made your car run better but didn't totally fix the car. the only explanation i can see is something caused all this and scrambled the ecu in the process, or vice versa.

 

[bboyalan]

UPDATE:

Sweet! I think I found my culprit guys! I pretty much owe it to my dad for forcing me to read my Chilton repair manual . ANYWAY, I tested my EGR SOLENOID using my dad's vacuum pump [page 4-17 / Emission Controls]. There are THREE tests of the solenoid as described verbatim from the manual:

a. With battery voltage not applied and the B nipple open, vacuum should be maintained. [PASS]
b. With battery voltage applied and the B nipple open, vacuum should leak. [PASS]
c. With battery voltage applied and the B nipple closed, vacuum should be maintained. [FAIL]

Luckily, my dad had an extra solenoid that he just showed me as I was typing this. I'm going to test it and, if it passes, swap it and see what the results are. It would make a lot of sense if this is true because it a) explains my vacuum leak for idle surging and b) explains my boost leak for sappy 3k+ acceleration. Hopefully this works and there's nothing else wrong. I'll post back results tomorrow! Weeeee!!!!

 

[super97gst]

UPDATE:

Sweet! I think I found my culprit guys! I pretty much owe it to my dad for forcing me to read my Chilton repair manual . ANYWAY, I tested my EGR SOLENOID using my dad's vacuum pump [page 4-17 / Emission Controls]. There are THREE tests of the solenoid as described verbatim from the manual:

a. With battery voltage not applied and the B nipple open, vacuum should be maintained. [PASS]
b. With battery voltage applied and the B nipple open, vacuum should leak. [PASS]
c. With battery voltage applied and the B nipple closed, vacuum should be maintained. [FAIL]

Luckily, my dad had an extra solenoid that he just showed me as I was typing this. I'm going to test it and, if it passes, swap it and see what the results are. It would make a lot of sense if this is true because it a) explains my vacuum leak for idle surging and b) explains my boost leak for sappy 3k+ acceleration. Hopefully this works and there's nothing else wrong. I'll post back results tomorrow! Weeeee!!!!

Sounds to me like you're gonna have to prepare a BIG thank you speech for your dad once the car is finally fixed. It really sounds like he's a big help to you. I've been meaning to ask you, what ever happened with the 75 you spent for the shop to tell you had a t-belt off a tooth?? You sure seemed down that day, I could see why too. I had forgotten to post back that I checked mine all the way around and the cam gears were still in time and the cams were still in time with the crank.

 

[bboyalan]

Thanks Blake. Actually, I honestly have to thank YOU too. I had first tested my injectors' resistance tonight after seeing that you tested yours. While searching in the repair manual I came across the Emissions pages and yeah..

To answer your question on the diagnostics, we put the timing back to the way it was... for some STRANGE reason, my car works when it's off? The valves weren't seating properly otherwise We'll see how it goes though.

But yeah, I'll post back results tomorrow since this isn't guaranteed. Thanks again everyone.

 

[super97gst]

Did you get the new EGR solenoid on there today?? I was gonna try to get my EGR valve off the car this afternoon and test it, but hell, i couldn't even find the thing in that tight fitted spot behind the IM. Is it bolted to the IM or to the head with a tube running back up to the IM?

 

[bboyalan]

Really weird update. So it turns out that I was being deceived by the car . SOMEHOW, there was a leak in the metal tubes behind the TB that connects in-between the hoses for the EGR solenoid and the EGR valve itself. We bypassed it by extending a hose from the valve straight to the solenoid. There were many vacuum tests w/ the pump done - we found that the solenoid was fine by blocking "port B" w/ our finger rather than the supposed "closed" system. We also performed the EGR vacuum test w/ the car idling - apply a vacuum directly to the EGR while the car idles and it should begin to stall. The car NOW has very minimal idle surge between 850-900, so I'm going to continue looking around. I'm suspecting that the rest of the metal tubings are leaking to some degree, so I'll post back in a little bit.

Blake: The EGR solenoid is the single solenoid behind the vacuum hoses on top of the intake manifold. The EGR valve is directly behind the ISC [remove the battery to get a clear view of it].

//edit// Just figured I'd edit instead of post-whoring w/ a new one. Correction, I BELIEVE that the thermal valve is what's behind the ISC if you're looking from the passenger side of the engine bay; it's confusing because there are 2 lines going to it so I'm not too certain. I swear this car is haunted and just like all crazy cars things never seem to go right. Sounds a lot better where the exhaust tone doesn't have a noticeable sound change during the previous surge status. She still hesitates 3k+ though =/ I did notice that in 2nd gear, boost won't really build up towards 3k like it should be. Also, during a drive up a slight incline in 3rd and 40mph, the car would continuously hesistate at 2.8k with 6psi. I don't even know if it's really the EGR or not. The car has a mind of its own! After the test drive, idle was steady at 1100 instead of 850 or 900 from earlier. Bah!

It's freaking driving me nuts that she drives almost perfectly if I'm just shifting at 2.5k for normal driving, and it's kind of pathetic not being able to accelerate especially on onramps for the freeway !

//edit#2// I stand corrected heh. I'm 99% sure that was the EGR valve. Picture that convinced me:

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[Artago]

^^ I have a leak somewhere behind the IM as well. I think it's also the metal tubing there. I'll tear it all apart and fix the leaks. Hopefully it will help.

Do you have any updates for us?

Tom

 

[super97gst]

^^ I have a leak somewhere behind the IM as well. I think it's also the metal tubing there. I'll tear it all apart and fix the leaks. Hopefully it will help.

Do you have any updates for us?

Tom

I don't know if you've been reading my thread, but I found out yesterday why I'm getting the 1104 code (BCS). I was going to reroute all of my vaccuum hoses back to stock to bypass my Greddy boost controller. Well, I got in there and found that the BCS was just gone. I don't know where it went. I must have for some reason taken it off the car when I installed my boost controller several years ago. So, I'm sure that's the reason I'm getting that code, the wire plug is just dangling there without the BCS on the end of it. Is there any way to test the boost controller by testing it?? I'm not so sure the boost control valve for my EBC isn't throwing fits.

 

[Artago]

I don't know if you've been reading my thread, but I found out yesterday why I'm getting the 1104 code (BCS). I was going to reroute all of my vaccuum hoses back to stock to bypass my Greddy boost controller. Well, I got in there and found that the BCS was just gone. I don't know where it went. I must have for some reason taken it off the car when I installed my boost controller several years ago. So, I'm sure that's the reason I'm getting that code, the wire plug is just dangling there without the BCS on the end of it. Is there any way to test the boost controller by testing it?? I'm not so sure the boost control valve for my EBC isn't throwing fits.

Sorry man I can't help you. I still have my stock BCS wired up. The hoses are disconnected but the BCS is still there.

Tom

 

[bboyalan]

Hey guys!

So ultimately good news. First of all, last night my dad and I continued snooping around the intake manifold. We had found a small hole on top of the TB [picture attached]. It appears to have been missing one of those small screw in plugs that are seen around the rest of the TB. We put a screw to plug it in w/ a rubber cover on top and my dad did his own individual test drive .

Now for the bigger update... I had researched through 7 pages of the forum last night under "hesitation" and found that some people mentioned their smic-to-elbow blowing off. This afternoon I pulled the area out and discovered that mine was starting to slip off of the i/c's outlet. I have no idea HOW it would be since everything was rock solid beforehand. My only guess was the extreme engine bogging scenario from before + the tight fit in the fender's hole.

I did ONE test drive so far and everything seems KICK ASS. I tweaked with the biss + sas + bov, so I'll report back in a few hours after I take the car on the freeway to my 2nd job.

~AL

 

[Artago]

^^ Yeah I saw that hole on my TB as well but when I did a BLT it was not leaking any air so I assumed there was no air passage through it.

 

[bboyalan]

Tom: Yeah, I didn't think it was the leak source either. What WAS shocking was that there was actually a hole inside it [peered inside]. There's some sort of piece that's blocking it inside, but mine was distorted. The screw actually restraightened it so all is fine there.

Anyway guys, I'm going to mark this thread as "RESOLVED" now. I want to personally thank everyone who contributed in helping me not give up so easily even when moments were pretty depressing and disappointing. Special thanks to Tom [Artago], Blake [super97gst], voodoogsx, PieEyedPiper, turbosax2, and anyone else I've forgotten to mention!

~AL

 

[super97gst]

Tom: Yeah, I didn't think it was the leak source either. What WAS shocking was that there was actually a hole inside it [peered inside]. There's some sort of piece that's blocking it inside, but mine was distorted. The screw actually restraightened it so all is fine there.

Anyway guys, I'm going to mark this thread as "RESOLVED" now. I want to personally thank everyone who contributed in helping me not give up so easily even when moments were pretty depressing and disappointing. Special thanks to Tom [Artago], Blake [super97gst], voodoogsx, PieEyedPiper, turbosax2, and anyone else I've forgotten to mention!

~AL

, that's great man. So it was the IC elbow coming from the smic that was actually causing the problem along with that hole on the TB?? I never could find any boost leaks on mine, but i guess that doesn't mean their not there. I think I need to go ahead and get an ECU bought from someone, seems like that helped you more than anything.

 

[Artago]

, that's great man. So it was the IC elbow coming from the smic that was actually causing the problem along with that hole on the TB?? I never could find any boost leaks on mine, but i guess that doesn't mean their not there. I think I need to go ahead and get an ECU bought from someone, seems like that helped you more than anything.

I wish I could say the same. The ECU swap did nothing for me except throw a new code. P1105 Fuel Pressure Solenoid. A new one is on it's way (thanks to JNZTuing). Hopefully it will make a difference after I install it. Either way I'll let you know.

Tom

 

[super97gst]

I wish I could say the same. The ECU swap did nothing for me except throw a new code. P1105 Fuel Pressure Solenoid. A new one is on it's way (thanks to JNZTuing). Hopefully it will make a difference after I install it. Either way I'll let you know.

Tom

Man, that thing is taking forever to get there isn't it??

For some reason when i crank my car and run it for like 2 minutes the exh. manifold gets red hot. I sent a couple pm's about ecu's so maybe i'll be able to get something in the next week or so.

 

[Artago]

Man, that thing is taking forever to get there isn't it??

For some reason when i crank my car and run it for like 2 minutes the exh. manifold gets red hot. I sent a couple pm's about ecu's so maybe i'll be able to get something in the next week or so.

You manifold is getting red hot after 2 minutes of idle? Yeah, your EGT's must be through the roof. Probably from running lean. I wouldn't drive your car too much or you might melt the pistons. I'd look into that ASAP.

Tom

EDIT: Does you car overheat?

 

[Crazyjoker77]

Hey guys!

So ultimately good news. First of all, last night my dad and I continued snooping around the intake manifold. We had found a small hole on top of the TB [picture attached]. It appears to have been missing one of those small screw in plugs that are seen around the rest of the TB. We put a screw to plug it in w/ a rubber cover on top and my dad did his own individual test drive .

Now for the bigger update... I had researched through 7 pages of the forum last night under "hesitation" and found that some people mentioned their smic-to-elbow blowing off. This afternoon I pulled the area out and discovered that mine was starting to slip off of the i/c's outlet. I have no idea HOW it would be since everything was rock solid beforehand. My only guess was the extreme engine bogging scenario from before + the tight fit in the fender's hole.

I did ONE test drive so far and everything seems KICK ASS. I tweaked with the biss + sas + bov, so I'll report back in a few hours after I take the car on the freeway to my 2nd job.

~AL

So there is suppose to be a screw that goes into that hole you have circled or does the screw screw into it and sit flush at the bottom of it? im not quite sure what your saying the problem was. I took a look at my TB and it looks identical to your picture.

also why is there no vacuum line on that one metal tube that goes under the Intake mani?

 

[super97gst]

You manifold is getting red hot after 2 minutes of idle? Yeah, your EGT's must be through the roof. Probably from running lean. I wouldn't drive your car too much or you might melt the pistons. I'd look into that ASAP.

Tom

EDIT: Does you car overheat?

Yes, I know it's because I'm running lean. That is part of this whole problem. It started that crap when this po300 started. And I haven't been driving the car whatsoever, so I know I haven't caused any problem. Is it possible that it is the ecu like it was with bboyalan's?? I found a 97 ecu this afternoon, I'm gonna send the money for it tomorrow so hopefully i'll have it here and in the car middle of next week. I really don't know what else could cause the running lean deal though. Also, the cooling system was acting a little weird before this PO300 came up. It acted like a stuck open thermostat. When I was driving at cruising speed the temps would stay normal, but when I stopped or started slowing down the temps would fall way down. But then the PO300 started and the car became undrivable before I could get the thermostat changed to see if that's what it was.

What do you think??

Bboyalan, was your gst doing this as well before you got the problem fixed??

 

[bboyalan]

Crazyjoker77: When I actually looked inside the hole, the bottom piece inside was punctured or twisted to some degree. The screw we temporarily placed bottomed it out, but I can't surely say if this did anything. As for the hoseless metal line, I discussed it in an earlier post. My vacuum pump test was showing that that particular one wasn't holding vacuum. We simply bypassed it and connected the vacuum line from the EGR solenoid directly to the EGR valve itself.

Blake: I responded in your thread =]