[RESOLVED] Clutch Doesnt Disengage... I can't find answers before pulling tranny

[GSXeclipsePSI]

Ok... 1st to state I have researched and researched and checked and checked about this.

My car decided while I came to a stop, to stop going into gear. So I did the normal checks.
- Replace Slave (was damaged inside, and leaking)
- Bleeding of Clutch Line (I have SS used DOT4 Fluid)
- Adjusted M/C
- Checked Clutch Fork Alignment (PIC BELOW)

THINGs I NOTICED:
- When pushing in the clutch, the clutch fork stops before hitting passenger side of window, and you can see it hit the point (SEE PIC BELOW; RED LINE) when the fork stops moving, but you can hear/see the SS line taken more stress

- When driving, like maybe 20 miles b4 car wouldn't shift while on, I hear what sounded like the TOB Clip/Return Clip flew off. I heard a noise that sounded like a clip/round ring felt off.

- Right b4 it happend, I rev'd the car with clutch pushed in and the car moved fowards at round 6k. Didn't think too much of it tho.
- I was able to drive the car home. Turned car off, and put in 1st gear, and it shifted a few more times the 1mile to the house.
- When car is on, the car will creep fowards when trying to put into gear. Doesn't allow you to grind!
- M/C not leaking
- S/C did have marking on inside to hint debris
- When pushing clutch in, m/c does make noise like a like a bike pump, but faint I can hear it, other people can't.
- TOB did make noise, could only hear it in my garage tho.
- Clutch Fork is sloppy, flops around like a wet noddle. *SEE PIC below*

MODS/Replacement Times
(ACT2600, SS Clutch Line)
- Tranny is used, replaced maybe 9k
- Clutch is new 5k
- Clutch Replace w/6Bolt swap inspected TOB, seemed good had 9k on it.
TOB Not Replaced
- FLYwheel was resurfaced and stepped correctly
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Clutch Fork

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Sloppy Movement

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* moves around all over the place, is this normal?

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Ok, so now its up to you guys to help me out, I'm trying to avoid pulling the trannys as I have never done it b4 by myself always had knowlegable/expericanced people helping but I moved 1200 miles and they aren't around anymore. So the pics show you everything I can see.

Thanks guys,
Kendel
Tampa Bay, FL

 

[Ja17Bmx]

Not to long ago I had an issue with the clutch not dis-engaging, the car would creep forward if put into gear and the clutch was put in. If I bled the system, it would shift a few times and then go back to how it was. Do you have any problem with the car going into gear? I ending up replacing the master cylinder and slave and that did nothing. Pulled the tranny to find my 2600 street disk had a spring pop out of it. Do you have to older version or the newer version of the 2600 and is it the street disk? If its the older style, it might be a possibility that a spring popped out of the clutch disk. Not to sound pescimistic but that could be the issue.

 

[GSXeclipsePSI]

I'm not sure the difference between old and new, but I got the pressure plate in 2004 from DSMotorsports in New Jersey and then when I replaced my clutch in 2007 I got it from TurboTrix in Edison New Jersey so I'm not sure which one they gave me, but the guy did state it was the last one in stock so I would assume it was a newer one at that time Jan. 07. But it is the street disc, not the puck style. I don't launch hard either the clutch is newer, do they cover the clutch if it brakes that soon??

The car will not go in gear on, off its fine. But if I try to put it in gear on, the car tries to move fowards, but its a slight fowards. I was thinking spring also when I noticed the fork stopped moving before hitting the bellhousing.

I did not notice any noise b4 it stopped working, a few miles b4 it stopped shifting, but no noise when I happend to not shift anymore, and it didn't stop shifting til I came to a stop. I thought it might have been a worn part issuse since the noises I heard where b4 any problems *20 miles or so. I do like to rock 20+psi at points but car felt good b4 it happend.

Thanks for the input so far.
Keep them comin!

 

[AndrewD5418]

Doesn't the new street disc have more springs? Or is that for the 2100. My buddy has an act2100 and his came with 6 springs or so. Mine came only with 4, I got a 2600.

 

[99RedGs]

I'm having this same problem on my n/t right now. I have a stock clutch not sure if it has ever been replaced. It seems to really act up when it is colder out. When I go to put it into 1st the car kind of rocks. Does this mean it isn't disengaging? I especially have a hard time shifting when it is over 4.5k rpms. It feels like hitting a wall kind of. It only actually grinds every once in a while, usually it just feels like Im hitting something when I try to shift. Is this how yours is acting?

I was thinking of bleeding the master/slave and changing the tranny oil but if that is something that won't work I don't want to waste time or money doing that. I haven't actually had a chance to look at it, because it has been pretty cold out. I hope you can figure out what is wrong so I get an idea .

 

[GSXeclipsePSI]

I'm having this same problem on my n/t right now. I have a stock clutch not sure if it has ever been replaced. It seems to really act up when it is colder out. When I go to put it into 1st the car kind of rocks. Does this mean it isn't disengaging? I especially have a hard time shifting when it is over 4.5k rpms. It feels like hitting a wall kind of. It only actually grinds every once in a while, usually it just feels like Im hitting something when I try to shift. Is this how yours is acting?

I was thinking of bleeding the master/slave and changing the tranny oil but if that is something that won't work I don't want to waste time or money doing that. I haven't actually had a chance to look at it, because it has been pretty cold out. I hope you can figure out what is wrong so I get an idea .

The tranny does feel as if you are hitting a wall. I'm not sure how many springs my new clutch has, I had enought time to buy, drive home 3hrs from TurboTrix, and install it. So I didn't look at it more then to compare it to my burnt out clutch from b4.

The tranny fluid I just replaced along with the transfer case fluid like 1000miles b4 this happend and my old fluid was low. I moved to Florida from NJ so i decided to use a different fluid incase the old stuff sat around for 2yrs not moving.

I did get into a argument with the JiffyLube guy, I called around 30mile radius to find Pennzoil SycroMesh and he gave me w.e. fluid he found to work in eclipse. He did lable it as GL-5 on the recipet, but it was suppose to be SycroMesh. If he f'd up, could this be cause of my problem?

If so, it's all on him, cause I called he 2times before I drove 30mins there to make sure he was correct. Asked him a few more times while I was infront of him. Then as I drove home and read the invoice I called him back again to 4x check to make sure he gave me the correct fluid.

 

[eclipsh]

I recently had the problem where it felt like I was hitting a steel wall when shifting, didn't even grind. Turned out the springs in my clutch were toast. All six were so worn they were bouncing back and forth in the clutch hub. Still in it but just no pressure on them. If I listened under the hood when I revved the engine I could hear noise as it wound back down. It was really noticeable with a mechanic's stethescope.

 

[turboAWDfanatic]

I think I might know what's happening. You say the hydraulic line is still stressed when the fork stops before it hits the side of the inspection window. With a worn ball *or* a bent fork, the fork will bottom out on that little hump you see just inside the inspection window before the outer part of the fork reaches the end of the inspection window. This will then put tons of stress on your hydraulics b/c it still has pressure to push but the fork doesn't want to go anywhere. If you push really hard, that hump will become the fulcrum point and the fork will push away from the ball. Usually when this is the case your pedal feel gets really stiff as you near the floor, like you're hitting a wall.

Also, as I understand it, it is NOT okay to have that much free up/down movement with the fork. Assuming youre master cyl is still good (you only replaced the slave, right?) and assuming you have *properly* bled the system and your clutch is in good condition, I'd say that a worn fork/ball is your problem.

 

[GSXeclipsePSI]

Hey thanks, thats what I thought too just wanted some more input before I drop this tranny.. Got any helpful tips for garage floor tranny removal.

The m/c was replaced 10k again, the tranny shop when I did the 2600 put all new clutch system parts in with my SS line.

What you said does sound like whats happening. The clutch is damn near new, I did 1 track run.

I also wanted to state, why would a tranny shop remove the input shifter shaft and take the shifter weight off in the engine bay?? Also my other question was what would cause a choppy shifting? My bushing on the tranny cables where shot. I'm replacing them with skateboard bearings.

thanks for the help!

 

[eclipsh]

Best tip for garage floor tranny removal: use a cherry picker and a chain to drop/lift it into place. It lets you spin it and tilt it to get it in/out without worrying about dropping it.

Oh and you don't have to pull the front half shafts out of the hubs, just unbolt the struts, brakes and the carrier bearing on the back side of the engine and pull them out of the way.

 

[GSXeclipsePSI]

Pulled the tranny. What had happend with the car was the TOB plate with the clips and tabs broke off and the plate in half. This is why it felt like a worn out felcurm ball because that gap the plate takes up is more then enought to push the clutch fork over too far.

All and all nice and cheap fix, $28 on TOB and then some new Syncromesh and upgraded motor mounts and Im good to go.