ECMlink [Resolved] 1G Need Help Fast, Front 02 Crazy Reading

[spadepro22]

Well I've been battling a problem since yesterday after upgrading to V3 and mtx-l wideband. None of warning lights come on and my temp and rpms not working. I said forget it for now, don't know what to check. I went for a ride for the 1st time and my front 02 only reads either .20 or .80 and I have a 2hr trip in the a.m. Can you take a look at my log and see if there is a reason for this, and if so, should I not make the trip with the car like this?

Pm me if there is something I can run outside and change on the fly so I can get going in the a.m.

 

[redheadbov]

Does it oscialate between .2 and .8? The gauges dont read at all? Ex. not responding at all?

 

[spadepro22]

Does it oscialate between .2 and .8? The gauges dont read at all? Ex. not responding at all?

It just hits .2 then jumps to .8, back and forth. The gauge does display AFR if that's what your asking.

 

[redheadbov]

I just went through most of your log, and your front 02 isn't oscillating like it should. At idle it should constantly *oscillate*. I meant your dash gauges as you stated in your first post.

Did you upgrade from v2.5? Did you always have that degree of knocking at 45% throttle?

 

[WES_393]

I can't open the log (on my phone) but I can tell you the front O2 is supposed to oscillate up and down while in closed loop. This also causes the ECU to overshoot the AF ratio so its typical to see your wideband readings fluctuate as well. It's perfectly normal.

 

[spadepro22]

I just went through most of your log, and you front 02 isnt oscilating like it should. at idle it should constantly *oscilate*. I meant your dash gauges as you stated in your first post. Did you upgrade from v2.5? Did you always have that degree of knocking at 45% throttle?

Yes I upgraded from v2.5 and my knock hasn't been changed yet. Once I get it everything functioning right, I'm going to adjust it to my old settings.

 

[redheadbov]

I agree with the above post, but at certain points during idle it will not oscillate for a couple of seconds, then drop for a couple of seconds, then back up. If it wasn't reading at all then it would be an easy call to just replace, but this isn't the case. Also I noticed your airflow fluctuates greatly when slightly accelerating, like it is bogging or shuttering

Are your deadtime and global settings correct? I could see why the 02 sensor would be acting weird if it was getting flushed with fuel, also I run with v2.5 and the o2 oscillation is portrayed very differently than the v3.

Pertaining to your gauges, I would recheck all your connections to the ECU and other pigtails, etc. that you disconnected when upgrading.

 

[spadepro22]

I can't open the log (on my phone) but I can tell you the front O2 is supposed to oscillate up and down while in closed loop. This also causes the ECU to overshoot the AF ratio so its typical to see your wideband readings fluctuate as well. It's perfectly normal.

Why is it only hitting .20 and .80? No in between.

I agree with the above post, but at certain points during idle it will not oscillate for a couple of seconds, then drop for a couple of seconds, then back up. If it wasn't reading at all then it would be an easy call to just replace, but this isn't the case. Also I noticed your airflow fluctuates greatly when slightly accelerating, like it is bogging or shuttering

Are your deadtime and global settings correct? I could see why the 02 sensor would be acting weird if it was getting flushed with fuel, also I run with v2.5 and the o2 oscillation is portrayed very differently than the v3.

Pertaining to your gauges, I would recheck all your connections to the ECU and other pigtails, etc. that you disconnected when upgrading.

Only wire touched on the ECU was pin and that was to solder the yellow wire from the wb to read oxygen sensor.

 

[redheadbov]

Recheck the ECU sockets, make sure they are completely intact. .2 and .8 is good oscillation. Just need somewhat consistent oscillation.

 

[spadepro22]

Recheck the ECU sockets, make sure they are completely intact. .2 and .8 is good oscillation. Just need somewhat consistent oscillation.

ECU is fresh from ECMTuning.

 

[redheadbov]

I just realised something, one time when I was going on my way to my friends house all of sudden my car started running like crap and the rpm gauge pooped out. Found a connector on the backside on my intake manifold below the throttle body had disconnected. Note: I have a six bolt swap in my car so it should relate to your engine pretty well. Simple two second check. If I were you I would transfer your previous tune over to the v3 and call it a night. Your not overheating, nor having a lot of knock. Would rather just be happy with driveable then messing something up and not being able to drive it tomorrow

I understand the ecu is new from ecmtuning, I'm referring to the wiring harness that connects to the ecu. make sure that they arent half way put into place making half ass connections

 

[spadepro22]

I just realised something, one time when I was going on my way to my friends house all of sudden my car started running like crap and the rpm gauge pooped out. Found a connector on the backside on my intake manifold below the throttle body had disconnected. Note: I have a six bolt swap in my car so it should relate to your engine pretty well. Simple two second check. If I were you I would transfer your previous tune over to the v3 and call it a night. Your not overheating, nor having a lot of knock. Would rather just be happy with driveable then messing something up and not being able to drive it tomorrow

I understand the ecu is new from ecmtuning, I'm referring to the wiring harness that connects to the ecu. make sure that they arent half way put into place making half ass connections

I made sure they were connected good a few times and just went to check under the throttle body and everythings good there. I need to make sure everything is function before I put the old settings in. Thanks

Im logging wb now, so should'nt the 02 volts be reading 0-5 volts instead of .20-.80?

 

[WES_393]

Why is it only hitting .20 and .80? No in between.

So it just goes straight up and down, making complete 90* angles? That sounds like narrowband simulation.

Did you tie the 0-1v wire from the wideband into the front O2? Is the "narrowband sim" box checked?

 

[eclipsyco]

Man I have seen this before actually on they own website on the tutorials they have a car that oscillates the same way as yours, at first was worried because mine didn't do that.... Do you have good A/F readings? If so i don't think you should worried so much

 

[spadepro22]

So it just goes straight up and down, making complete 90* angles? That sounds like narrowband simulation.

Did you tie the 0-1v wire from the wideband into the front O2? Is the "narrowband sim" box checked?

Yellow wire (0-5v) to pin 4 of ECU and narrowband sim checked in DSMLink.

Man I have seen this before actually on they own website on the tutorials they have a car that oscillates the same way as yours, at first was worried because mine didn't do that.... Do you have good A/F readings? If so i don't think you should worried so much

Reading on the gauge is ok, but the 02 should be 0-5v tho right?

 

[WES_393]

Yellow wire(0-5v) to pin 4 of ecu and narrowband sim checked in link.



Reading on the gage is ok, but the 02 should be 0-5v tho right?

Then that's why the readings aren't smooth curves. Link is "faking" a signal from the front O2. There's no actual front O2 voltage, it's flipped like a switch in Link. The signal is 0-1v, not 0-5v, so it's right where it should be. So long as your close to 14.7 at idle you have no reason to worry.

 

[spadepro22]

So your saying there is no in between, either .20 or .80? Look at this old log with v2.5. The o2 gradually goes up and down, not just to points. (Not saying you're wrong)

 

[eclipsyco]

Actually WES is right that's because you are simulating narrowband... does the 2.5v of link simulate narrowband? maybe this is the way that it looks in the v3 link, where is your WB 02 sensor front or rear?
I do have wideband but i don't have it wired up to the ECU yet so i can not tell for sure.

Check this out: http://www.ecmtuning.com/demos/navigation.html se how the 02 goes .2 -.8 just like you... here this one also http://www.ecmtuning.com/demos/logoptions.html check this one at the end when he toggles the 02 you can clearly see it...

 

[spadepro22]

Actually WES is right that's because you are simulating narrowband... does the 2.5v of link simulate narrowband? maybe this is the way that it looks in the v3 link, where is your WB 02 sensor front or rear?
I do have wideband but i don't have it wired up to the ECU yet so i can not tell for sure.

I was using a plx m-300. It was used as narrowband. Wb is in the front 02. It just seems that since it takes the voltage and simulates it, it would still read more than two readings.

And I do see it going from .20-.80

 

[WES_393]

I was using a plx m-300. It was used as narrowband. Wb is in the front 02. It just seems that since it takes the voltage and simulates it, it would still read more than two readings.

And I do see it going from .20-.80

With normal narrowband operation, the front O2 would be sending a signal (voltage) to the ECU. The voltage changes with the presence of Oxygen, so the ECU is programmed to read .2 as "lean" and .8 as "rich". While in closed loop, the ECU is adjusting the fuel, but is slow to react to it's own adjustments and constantly overshooting as a result. So you see the wave-like graph as the voltage "slowly" raises and drops. Like so:

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With narrowband simulation, DSMLink is literally simulating the voltage that would normally come from the front O2. The 0-5v wire you hooked up is so that Link can read the wideband. Link takes the wideband reading and literally gives a false signal to the ECU in place of the front O2 sensor. When the A/F ratio raises above 14.7, Link supplies a "lean" signal (.2v) to make the ECU richen the fuel mix. Alternatively, a reading below 14.7 causes Link to send out a "rich" signal (.8v). Since there is no actual sensor, there is no gradual change to see on the graph like you see above. It's like a switch that tells the ECU "lean" or "rich" in order to sustain the fuel adjustment cycle. The image below was taken from a different log where narrowband simulation was being used. Note that it's the same sharp lines as yours.

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Like I said, so long as your A/F ratio is good, then there's no need to worry. It's completely normal.

 

[spadepro22]

Thanks man. My rpms and temp gage are still not working, but I'm about to make this 4hr round trip, wish me luck. If I break down I'll be posting back.

 

[Dert]

.20 and .80 is normal narrowband oscillation.

 

[casperfast]

not a problem, those sensors have to be pretty hot to read correctly, could be a "lazy" o2 sensor. still works just not real well at idle.