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replacing clutch, flywheel, tob, seals...suggestions? I don't want to do this again

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khartley

15+ Year Contributor
1,235
2
Jul 20, 2004
Faith, South Dakota
So per my other thread, my tob did go out, despite the fact that I replaced it and the clutch about 1500 miles ago.
So I'm going to replace everything again, including the flywheel this time. I'd like some suggestions so that I do not have to do this again.

I figured with my mods, I would go ahead and get the ACT 2600 kit, along with a lightened flywheel. What is the most trusted/streetable flywheel to go with? Take note this is my daily driver for the winter. I have owned a car with a 2600 in it before and I really didn't mind the feel of it. But I've heard mixed stories about flywheels and their streetability when paired with such a harsh clutch.

For the TOB I will be ordering the stock plastic one from the dealership.

I also figured it would be a good idea to replace the tranny seal.

I will also be putting in a tranny bushing kit while I'm in that area.



Is there anything else any of you recommend I do while I'm in this area? This will be the second time doing this, and I really don't want to have to do it a third time.
 
I'd also change the Clutch release fork and Pivot ball.


I had a Fidanza light-weight flywheel paired with a Center Force Dual Friction clutch, it was real grabby but nothing too hard to drive. A few days of driving around and I had it down fairly well.
 
The mixed stories about the light flywheels such as the fidanza or act ones are b.s. It'll take some getting use to (obviously) , rev a little higher to start off, but nothing exaggerated or intolerable. Fidanza and Act are pretty reputable flywheels. You might aslo want to consider a scatter shield and the crank seal since it's already there. Also if going with the lighter flywheel you could look into using the automatic spacer with longer flywheel bolts ( such as the fp kit ). Maybe even a ss clutch line.
 
Newbie question, what is the purpose of an automatic spacer? A scatter shield may be a good idea. I will definitely replace the clutch fork, pivot ball, and crank seal. I will look into an SS clutch line as well.

As for the prothane mounts Chris, I was getting them for my Cobalt, not the Talon. I don't see how they would help that much on an AWD car. You getting them for yours?
 
Yep got then and from the time I started putting the inserts in to the time the motor was in it took me about 4 or 5 hours. Most of it I was putting the motor in and looking back on it I wish I had down it a little different to maybe speed up the time, but maybe I'll remember it when I'm putting the build motor in this summer.
 
Another question...is this the TOB that is the plastic OEM one?

OEM Clutch Throwout Bearing

Also, is it a good idea to use new flywheel bolts when taking the flywheel off?

Should I replace both my master and slave cylinders while I'm at it?

Would a slave cylinder extension rod be a good insurance policy to get as well?
 
Another question...is this the TOB that is the plastic OEM one?

OEM Clutch Throwout Bearing

Yup. Mitsu part number is MD749998.

Also, is it a good idea to use new flywheel bolts when taking the flywheel off?

Yup. MD302074 (x7)

Should I replace both my master and slave cylinders while I'm at it?

Might as well if you have the money.
Master - MB555133
Slave - MD733623

Would a slave cylinder extension rod be a good insurance policy to get as well?

Nope. That's a band-aid fix for clutch problems. There are explanations on the forums that go into detail why it's not a good idea to use them.
 
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