Replacing 2g roof skin, need advice from people who have done it.

[4g64fiero]

I am replacing the sun roof skin on my 95 gst with a non sunroof skin. I am replacing the entire roof. I tried welding just the sunroof shut with sheet metal but it warped so I went and got the entire roof off a 95 talon without a sunroof.

I pulled the front windshield using guitar strings and fenders/hatch. Now its just a matter of figuring out where the roofskin begins and ends. I'm not entirely sure where to drill and grind. In some places its very hard to tell where the frame starts and the skin ends.

Any help is appreciated.

 

[crimsondragon]

I'd cut right before the sunroof begins and a little right after. Then it's just a matter of measuring where to cut on the spare roof and measuring it to spec for welding. Removing the windshield would not be needed in this case.

 

[Scrymerr]

I'd cut right before the sunroof begins and a little right after. Then it's just a matter of measuring where to cut on the spare roof and measuring it to spec for welding. Removing the windshield would not be needed in this case.

NO, Don't do that!! That's a horrible idea and will leave huge seams to be welded and leave the OP with the same warped roof he has now! That is a nice way to ruin an otherwise simple and straightforward roof job.

To the OP: I have not done a roof job on a 2g, but have done many other vehicles. Although this may not be the specifics you were looking for, I hope I can give you a bit of basic information. First of all, pulling the windshield and hatch was the right place to start. Next, if you have not done it already, pull both drip mouldings and the quarter glass. These are most easily removed with an air-knife and a long razor knife. The roof extends all the way down the A-pillar to the fenders, but you will not want to cut this off. Section the roof on the A-pillar. You will only have to deal with about an inch long cut on each side, so it will be very easy to do. Other than that, just grind off all the seam-sealer on the back of the roof up by the hatch hinges. This should expose the seam where the roof ends. Then just work around the perimeter of the roof and grind or drill out all the spotwelds. Also, it sounds like you know what you are doing so I probably don't need to say this: if you are drilling out spotwelds, use a spot weld cutter, not a drill bit!

Let me know if this was the information you needed. I can be more specific if you would like.

Good luck!!!

 

[4g64fiero]

NO, Don't do that!! That's a horrible idea and will leave huge seams to be welded and leave the OP with the same warped roof he has now! That is a nice way to ruin an otherwise simple and straightforward roof job.

To the OP: I have not done a roof job on a 2g, but have done many other vehicles. Although this may not be the specifics you were looking for, I hope I can give you a bit of basic information. First of all, pulling the windshield and hatch was the right place to start. Next, if you have not done it already, pull both drip mouldings and the quarter glass. These are most easily removed with an air-knife and a long razor knife. The roof extends all the way down the A-pillar to the fenders, but you will not want to cut this off. Section the roof on the A-pillar. You will only have to deal with about an inch long cut on each side, so it will be very easy to do. Other than that, just grind off all the seam-sealer on the back of the roof up by the hatch hinges. This should expose the seam where the roof ends. Then just work around the perimeter of the roof and grind or drill out all the spotwelds. Also, it sounds like you know what you are doing so I probably don't need to say this: if you are drilling out spotwelds, use a spot weld cutter, not a drill bit!

Let me know if this was the information you needed. I can be more specific if you would like.

Good luck!!!

Thanks man, this way works for the 2g. I did it.

 

[4g64fiero]

Alright, I got'er done finally.

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What made it WAY easier is actually using a spot weld remover bit instead of a drill bit ( I actually didnt know about that handy little invention). Jesus, after that it went 10 times faster and cleaner no joke, the bit was only 5 bucks but I bought 2. Only needed 2.

Tools I used:
Drill
spot weld remover bit
Angle grinder
chisel
Hammer
flat head screw driver
Wire brush attachment for the drill to remove what was left of the adhesive for the windows so I could get to the spot welds
.022 inch guitar strings (about 5 or so)
Welder gloves

I also had a small phillips head screw driver that I would hammer into the spot weld to center the spot weld remover bit REAL easy. It has a spring loaded pin that trys to keep the bt centered but goes dull quick. If you punch a hole in the weld the its super easy to drill it out with the attachment because your not focused on keeping it centered. Made a big diferance.

Oh and theres like a rediculous amount of spot welds in the back.

 

[Scrymerr]

Nice job man! Yea, those spot-weld cutters are a must have. Looks good, now just weld the skin on, smooth out the welds, a little seam-sealer as needed and she's ready for paint.

Where did you buy your spotweld cutters at? I have been getting them through a supplier that delivers to the body shop I used to work at, but haven't really found a local store that sells them.