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replaceing tranny oil?

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pazsion

10+ Year Contributor
184
0
Aug 9, 2008
richmond, Virginia
i've noticed it's definately sluggish nowadays.. compareing it to when i first bought the car, in un maintained shape..

i've since put over 60k miles on the car.. down shifts don't catch and spin up the rpms as they used to.. there is some resistence there.. between shifts it sometimes feels like the wheels are in tar pits.. the car slows a bit untill i press the accelerater down to try and compensate.. until the car warms up.. at that point i can use the rpms with very little pedal to engage the gear and accelerate. for example. i'd rev up to 3k shift into second..fade in the clutch let it use that 1k of rpms to accelerate until it falls about 2k and repeat to each gear.

what kind of oil should i put in the tranny

where do i fill it? where do i drain it?

Can i run a loop from the tranny to the engine oil cycles.. or is this oil way too thin??

i've spotted a lone bolt on the front of the bell houseing.. but nothing really in the hayes manual about replaceing the tranny's lubricants.. so i'm quite clueless..

being my daily driver and my job.. i can't really risk trial and error.. i need to know what to do, and what to use. hopefully better then oem recommendations.. i'd like to get under 20% power loss due to the transmission being designed the way it is..

i wasnt able to post in the tranny sections.. so here a reply to a similar thread there..

to the guys talking about downshifting in first being hard.. um, theres a safety meassure put in place to prevent this from being done at speeds higher then 15-25 mph.. if you do get it into first at higher speeds and try to downshift.. the gear is so short you could throw rods and pistons all over the street if you let it rev out .. use other gears, and work down to first -.- third seems to be a nice selection at speeds higher then 45..

also i have been able to select reverse while moving forward.. but i didnt want to risk full engagement.. the engine definately didnt like me trying.. many attempts to do this have resulted in grinding instead of selecting the gear.. maybe with some more horsepower and minor modifications.. it could be possible to do this.. and do rolling burnouts from forward into reverse.. or just get your nose out of traffic quickly.. from a forward roll.. :aha:
 
Why the heck are you trying to select reverse gear while moving forward or trying to put it in first at speeds probably higher than 10mph?

I think it may be your own fault for your tranny issues.
 
I am going to asume this is a standard transmission. In order to do what you are asking several thigs are necessary. 1. remove battery 2. remove battery tray. 3 remove washer fluid resivor
You should be able to see down to the transmission after this step. On the drivers side of the tranny you should see a rubber plug pull this out and stick you finger in the hole and see if you feel any oil. if not you have 2 options.
1. drain the remaning oil and refill with new.
2. top off the oil that is in there with valvoline synthetic gear oil.
(it actually call for a special oil from the dealer that costs +$40 a quart but I checked with the local tranny shops before I installed mine and they said that is what they use.)
If you choose to drain the gear oil you will need to get a clean pan and I mean clean. jack your car up like you are changing the oil. Once you have the car up on jackstands. examine the differential. on the passenger side there is a bolt plug that looks different from all the others. put your pan under it and remove the bolt. the old gear oil will drain. Examine it for large metal chunks. reinstall plug. to fill up tranny you will need a long flexible funnel and around 2 quarts of the above mentioned gear oil.


If you find you need a tranny I have one just contact me.

It actually sounds like you have brakes sticking or possibly bad wheel bearings. to check this raise all 4 wheels off the ground one at a time and spin the wheel it should spin freely with little or no resistance. Also grab the wheel at the top and push in and then pull out. preferably with your centercaps removed so you can see the end of the axleshafts. your wheels should not move. if the do you got bad bearings.
 
good advice xD

:hellyeah:

what viscosity etc? or is it like the sae crap and doesnt have that? "speacial oil"

i would imagine thicker would be better? i'm sure things in there are high rpm and high load.. even shock fatigue.


i'm actually intrested in parting together an engine build, i just have very little cash.. and too many kittens to feed.. they are very adoptable xD

a transmission would be great. i'm hoping at some point i can do some week end racing or scca with a talon.. having replacement parts for all kinds of crap that breaks would eventually be needed..

know where i could get some lug bolts that arent aluminum xc ..?
 
He has a Chrysler tranny being a N/T thus, he can't use the normal fluids that we use. He has to go to a dealer fluid, but he can use AMSOIL "Universal Transaxle Fluid"...

but true, his shifting habits is gonna destroy that tranny no matter what fluid he uses... He needs to learn how to shift properly..
 
AMSOIL Synthetic Automatic and Manual Transmission Fluid

this?


transmission filter?

WIX Automotive & Light Truck Transmission Filters

do i even have one of these? where is it located?? should i change it?
duh, but i'm asking people with more experience then me...


the valvoline seems to have alot of bad reviews.. and many of them contain phosphorus ans sulfur... niether good for the brass synchros....

what exactly is wrong with shifting, the way i do? it has saved me alot of gas, and is not putting any additional stress on its components.. the traditional shifts are more stressful..

shifting into reverse while moving forward is not something i do often.. or like to do... it's more likely done because i need too.. to save my own butt and those of others around me at that point in time..
 
Going into reverse while moving forward will DESTROY the tranny if not bust gears while trying to make it engage. There is a gate there for a reason and you should not even be trying to put it in reverse while going forward.


What are you doing that would make you need to go into reverse to "save my own butt and those of others around me..."? Plese don't say that you are street racing or speeding around towns or not even paying attention to the road.
 
try rre they have synthetic oils for trannys.
sorry if i missed this but is your tranny auto or stick?
if its auto i have an oem auto tranny filter that i bought thinking that manual trannys required one. :banghead:
 
ah, ty boost.. yea this is manual.. so there shouldn't be a filter??

the rubber plug is on the side facing the wheel above the cv axle.. i saw this small metal tab thingy near the gear select arm.. and thought that was "the rubber plug" i yanked on it a few times then realized it was attached securely to something deep inside.. and immediately considered other locations.. =c

after finding rubber i felt mighty stupid.. and started wondering wth i was yanking on..

i put 85-140 carquest tranny oil in..not synthetic, and the guy at the counter said it shouldn't contain sulfur or harsh detergents.. I drained the old oil.. it was black dirty, red and probably amsoil.. extreamly thin.. and did not cut much friction... and smelled like old fermenting grease..and i recognized the smell of gl-5..

the new oil did have a hint of sulfur so it probably does.. but its what i could afford and is what i had at hand.. and the thickest available.. i'm often on the road for 3 or more hours.. and can travel 200 or more miles in that time..stop ,go large hills with stop lights on them..then on the highway and off again, i want those gears and bearings covered..

i'm concerned i may not have enough oil in there.. 4 qt's came out.. and 1 qt went (32 oz) in... i'm planing on getting some lucas hd oil stabilizer and putting it in there.. and very curious about their hydralic oil..why wouldn't i want to put hydralic oil in the gears?

initial results: gears engage easily, and fully.. before it needed to be precise.. and first and forth....third were often half way.. or caused vibration under load..

after there was none of that.. reverse would make a loud clacking noise..as you heard the mechanisim contacting the metal and moving things.. that is gone.. all gears are much easier to engage..

everything is still tight and not sloppy.. the only thing that hints at a problem before the change.. is there seems to be a leak on the passenger side cv axle bearing /seal.. several places along the bottom 3 bolts around the drain bolt where the bell housing meets the rest of it.. seems to be seeping oil slowly..

bearing or bearing seal failure is suspect.. and could still create resistence if that is an issue..

driving:

again everything is better.. shifter goes all the way in..but the feel of engagement and locked is still there.. and it's solid..

downshifting and the rpms respond much better and accordingly.. coasting while in any gear, now feels more free.. very little speed loss on level in 5th..i can idle and cruise and it will accelerate..hehe..

1st and 4th gear shudder.. almost completely gone... power comes in much earlier.. and actually feels like its getting to the wheels.. in all gears..

we'll see what happens as we go along.. 30k miles is like half a year for me..

again, i do not like going into reverse at 45 mph.. i was only able to achieve this once... and am thankful i could and by the grace of god it didn't grind at all..and didn't kill my car.. you must brake.. and you must pay attention to rpms and how the engine is behaving... it will not like it.. it must not force the engine to spin in reverse... It will try.. and this engine and people with experience tell me never to turn it backwards with the timing belt on..

having done this.. and knowing there are other idiots to avoid on the road.. i've attempted this at low speeds twice.. it grinds.. and i do not force it.. or whack it.. or try to speed shift it.. LOL.. i'm not completely stupid.. but if i can repeat it reliably.. it'd be a boost of confidence.. on these roads.. but i won't be trying this again in this car... and will be much more careful about idiot drivers.. driving on the wrong side of the road..i was only joking about rolling forward and slamming it into a reverse wheel spin xD


:tease:
 
Last edited:
4k miles later, i added 32oz more oil about 2k miles..

so there should be a little over 2 qts

half 70-140 and hlaf lucas HD oil stabilizer.


i've obtained 46 miles per gallon with hydrogen..twice, i am building up a new design to improve on this. 60 mpg and 200+hp is the goal. I need an adjustable computer and some way to monitor hydrogen output realtime..

so things are so far beneficial.

nothing so far seems to hint at any issues.. gear selection keeps getting easier..
leaks are hard to detect, but i'm watching it.
 
i have not seen any new oil leaking around the tranny.. xD

first is becomeing hard to get into gear.. this is often because i let the fluids run low.. or i haven't drained, bled, and re-filled this area since i bought the car.. i've just been keeping it full.. there is dark sediment in the resivoir.. and i'm considering taking some time off from work to do this right..maybe take off the in-line resivour, as detailed here in this forum.. should help it get engauged sooner and more completely.. which would also save alot of fuel..


7k miles and it feels good.. i'm saving more gas then before.. getting up to speed takes alot less throttle too...

people have used zinc additives in motor oil.. would this benefit the transmission too??
 
again, i do not like going into reverse at 45 mph..


i'm not completely stupid..

you sure? Id rather someone drive on the wrong side of the road and hit me head on than destroy my own transmission.

A)Someone hits me-I pay nothing for repaired damages, i could probably milk a week or so from work, new paint, possible cosmetic upgrades

B)I put my car in reverse to miss said idiot-Im stuck paying for a new transmission, time away from work to do repairs, bumming rides....

Id rather have someone else total my car, than me have to replace my transmission due to my own stupidity....
 
At 45 mph and me doing 45-25, would = 70-90mph impact...jumping from 300ft...even with airbags or seatbelts, the likelyhood that anyone would survive...is 1 in 2, by the time he was too close to brake...he didn't turn untill maybe 200ft in reverse and brights were used...looked pretty freaking surprised..:pray: I barely had much time to think about killing myself,the other guy or my car...

At 210k+ the reverse light switch failed and the clutch ignition switch seems to be ready to go...probably 45k since I used standard oil, lucas hd about 50/50.

Probably within range of standard failure, it's full, I could see that when i replaced the r-switch, still clean, no loss of color etc. :hmm:
 
At 45 mph and me doing 45-25, would = 70-90mph impact...


a 90mph impact with proper restraint is EASILY survivable. i was in a 110mph impact and limped away with a fratured kneecap. again, id much rather have my car totalled by the fault of some other idiot, than destroy it by my own doing. his insurance, not my wallet.
 
Is everyone sure that tranny takes gear oil.. i was told by darrel cox. (srt4 guy) that that tranny has something in it that gear oil will eat away. Maybe friction material or something. Just curious because my nt car he told me to puy atf4 in it and he did mention that the gear oil would make it hard to shift into first after a while. Really curious after reading this because i swore i seen old threads say using atf as well
 
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