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Removing Idle Air Control Valve

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Bo0sTeD 4G63

15+ Year Contributor
469
78
Aug 31, 2008
Miami, Florida
Hello all, I have a 2g with a 1g throttle body. I am trying to eliminate my idle air control valve. I made a block off plate to eliminate the idle air control valve on the throttle body but when I re installed the throttle body and tried to start the car it did not want to start. Has anyone removed the idle air control valve and if so is there anything I am missing to do?
 
Look for bolt marks on it and try to get it as close as possible to a place it was before. Still, don't think a TPS would have anything to do with a complete no-start.

Wanted to say that the Idle Speed Adjustment Screw is closed or some passages are clogged and not letting any air into the engine, but if that was the case engine would still start, but only while holding throttle plate open. But until someone suggests something better, grab a can of carb cleaner, remove the Screw, and blast the passages of the throttle body to make sure they are clean.

Doing a removal-blockoff have not noticed any issues with my car. As a matter of fact, the procedure was done to get rid of a faulty valve that was causing idle surge. All that needed to be tweaked after it was the ISAS (or BISS, as most call it. Stands for "Base Idle Set Screw").
 
Look for bolt marks on it and try to get it as close as possible to a place it was before. Still, don't think a TPS would have anything to do with a complete no-start.

Wanted to say that the Idle Speed Adjustment Screw is closed or some passages are clogged and not letting any air into the engine, but if that was the case engine would still start, but only while holding throttle plate open. But until someone suggests something better, grab a can of carb cleaner, remove the Screw, and blast the passages of the throttle body to make sure they are clean.

Doing a removal-blockoff have not noticed any issues with my car. As a matter of fact, the procedure was done to get rid of a faulty valve that was causing idle surge. All that needed to be tweaked after it was the ISAS (or BISS, as most call it. Stands for "Base Idle Set Screw").

I will try cleaning it out the passage, I did buy this throttle body used from someone maybe it might be dirty.
 
I would have to agree and say that your issue seems to not be related to the throttle body. I would start with the basics and check for fuel and spark and see which one your missing. Even if it was throttle body related, when you hold the gas it should start.
 
If it was running before with the current throttle body prior to mod, you shouldn't have no-start problems. It's a little harder to get it started at first but should turn over.
Does it sputter or try to start?
 
I would have to agree and say that your issue seems to not be related to the throttle body. I would start with the basics and check for fuel and spark and see which one your missing. Even if it was throttle body related, when you hold the gas it should start.

I have fuel and spark that was the first thing I checked as soon as it didn't want to start.

If it was running before with the current throttle body prior to mod, you shouldn't have no-start problems. It's a little harder to get it started at first but should turn over.
Does it sputter or try to start?

Before doing the mod it would start right up without any problems and yes it sputters and tries to turn on but then just stops sputtering and trying to turn on. Is there anything else I needed to do because all I did was put a block off plate and disconnect the IAC valve?
 
I'm not sure about ability to w dsmlink, but try using tps wizard again to set the tps.
You might be reading a higher voltage and not allowing to simulate idle switch..
 
Well it uses the TPS to simulate the IAC, so essentially yes. I'm not entirely sure where it's at under the settings but I believe it's under the RPM/TPS tab under live ECMlink settings. I'm not sure it will help but its worth a shot since its easy to try. And log the volts of the TPS and see what it's telling you.
 
I know ive been chasing down an idle issue myself(idles anywhere from 800-1200) I have replaced the IAC twice, tps once, and cleaned out the TB twice. Its quiet frustrating. Good luck man
 
My idle was all over the place so I read up on idle issues and came across a post on removing the IAC valve would fix my problem.


I think you might have gotten the IAC confused with the FIAV.

This is the procedure I followed when I was getting erratic idle, after I had made sure I had no other issues like vacuum leaks or bad throttle body sensors.

Worked fine for me and I haven't had any idle issues since.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-intake-exhaust/391977-free-fiav-block.html
 
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