2G Recently Purchased 1995 GSX sometimes stalls during shifts.

[Clermas]

Hello All,

I read quite a few posts about this and so I figure I know the issue just looking for confirmation. The previous owner seemed to have "capped off" the BOV discharge line that fed back to the intake, post MAF pre Turbo. I am not very familiar with turbo setups and this is a project car for my daughter and I. Yes indeed the discharge does sound very cool and I do intend to get the MAFT and appropriate MAF to get that sound back but for now I'll settle for being able to get it to the DMV for processing, haha.

One thing that puzzles me is the fact that we were able to drive it well over 200 miles before ever experiencing this issue. I had a friend drive it from Palm Springs to Las Vegas without issue. I also had a friend drive it to smog and back. Neither of them mentioned a single stall issue. (I didn't drive it as it had been 13 years since I last drove a manual).

Once I finally took it out, I stalled once during down shifting and thought that it was just lack of recent experience. Second time nothing, third time I seemed to get some sort of "blow back" when I punched it through second, around 5K the blow off valve went off and it felt almost like I had down shifted yet I had not.

Today I went to take it to the DMV and I stalled 4 times in 3 blocks...

before

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after

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Before I crank it over I am looking for the community's guidance, thanks so much.

Thanks for all the up coming help with my project and I look forward to growing with the community.

 

[rEclipserGST]

That is correct. The bov should be recirculated like you did. Go ahead and add a clamp for good measure. There are a few other things you could do to increase driveability as well.

 

[Clermas]

Please continue. And yes, of course about the clamp, just didn't have one big enough.

 

[rEclipserGST]

Full engine bay pic will help. I can see the battery terminals need attention. There's plenty. Do a boost leak test. Fix vacuum leaks. Exhaust leaks. Dry rotted hoses. Install a catch can. Check valve inline with the pcv. New NGK copper spark plugs gapped to .25. New wires if needed. Fuel filter? Do not forget the fuel filter sock inside the fuel tank under the rear seat.

Plenty of info on this site. I've built my car solely from researching on here.

 

[Clermas]

Yes indeed. Here is the engine bay as it is currently. You are also correct, there is plenty to do just getting it cleaned up back to reliable. Currently the oil pressure gauge does not work, the gas level gauge is faulty, the stock radio is locked, the clutch master cylinder is leaking, brakes need to be done, all of which I have ordered parts for. The anti-lock light is on also, checked with a cheap scan tool but don't think it checks ABS faults. Only picked it up two weeks ago so have not done much yet besides relearn how to drive stick haha. Parts will start rolling in starting this Thursday.

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[Dsm panda]

Make sure your oil sending unit for stock gauge has its wierd not quite blade connector on. On my 96 it keeps sliding off and just saying no psi.

 

[streetraceboi]

Yes indeed. Here is the engine bay as it is currently. You are also correct, there is plenty to do just getting it cleaned up back to reliable. Currently the oil pressure gauge does not work, the gas level gauge is faulty, the stock radio is locked, the clutch master cylinder is leaking, brakes need to be done, all of which I have ordered parts for. The anti-lock light is on also, checked with a cheap scan tool but don't think it checks ABS faults. Only picked it up two weeks ago so have not done much yet besides relearn how to drive stick haha. Parts will start rolling in starting this Thursday.

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Take off the T off at the BOV. Fix that exhaust leak that I see. Add some stock heat shields to the manifold/turbo. Spray it with some Purple Power and power wash the bay to give it a nice cleaning. Cover the fuse box of course

 

[Clermas]

Take off the T off at the BOV. Fix that exhaust leak that I see. Add some stock heat shields to the manifold/turbo. Spray it with some Purple Power and power wash the bay to give it a nice cleaning. Cover the fuse box of course

Where do you see the exhaust leak? Thanks

I definitely notice an exhaust leak but haven't investigated for it yet.

 

[m_0ney_pit]

Curious about your air filter cover never seen one like that before is it custom or an ancient piece of dsm history that is long out of production?

 

[Clermas]

Curious about your air filter cover never seen one like that before is it custom or an ancient piece of dsm history that is long out of production?

Wish I had an answer for you. It came that way, I will investigate it for a manufacturer and let you know.

 

[chrysler kid]

Your radiator is about to crack. Being a light color brown means it is very worn and brittle

The exhaust studs on the turbo are a cheap alloy and have been stretched. There are several washers on one of them, the cheap bolts that come with aftermarket turbos stretch and needs to be replaced.

Heat shields are necessary and very needed. You will want to find a turbo blanket if you plan to keep under hood temps down and have a working ac system.

 

[Clermas]

Just bought an OEM heat shield. The turbo blanket is literaly the wrap style correct? I plan on replacing the Radaitor completely, along with the hoses. AC doesn't work currently, though I would like it to. Have not investigated that yet. Will look into replacing the turbo mount bolts, thanks for all the tips, if you notice other things please let me know.

Racer mentioned a T to remove at the BOV, I must admit I am not sure what he is referring to? Is he referring to the T in the line that leads back to the intake?

 

[Clermas]

Alright ordered the OEM bolts and figured might as well replace the seals while I have the bolts out so ordered both of those. Thanks for all the tips guys. Keep them coming.

 

[streetraceboi]

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Typically from the black you see here its exhaust gases from the manifold/head gasket. And as for the T, you never want to interrupt that line and never use it for a vacuum source

 

[Clermas]

Awesome thanks for the insight, I plan on replacing the exhaust manifold as the stock is pretty ugly that should take care for that.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Probably should get a new oil dipstick, but it will work for now.
Not that it matters, but I notice it has a 1990 valve cover on it. They were the only ones with an elbow coming off of the side instead of a straight nipple for the vent back to the intake. Will make a nice project for you to work on together like my sons and I do.

 

[streetraceboi]

Probably should get a new oil dipstick, but it will work for now.
Not that it matters, but I notice it has a 1990 valve cover on it. They were the only ones with an elbow coming off of the side instead of a straight nipple for the vent back to the intake. Will make a nice project for you to work on together like my sons and I do.

Also a "JDM" Mitsubishi valve cover as well

 

[Clermas]

I have already ordered the dip stick as well haha. It bothered me also. We had some Powerstop calipers, rotors and pads come in already. Daughter is excited to get started.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I run PowerStop drilled/slotted front rotors and ceramic pads from RockAuto along with bigger calipers on my 1g and it has helped a fast car slow down a lot better.

 

[Clermas]

I run PowerStop drilled/slotted front rotors and ceramic pads from RockAuto along with bigger calipers on my 1g and it has helped a fast car slow down a lot better.

Awesome we purchased both the front and the rear set. Fronts came in yesterday, rears are coming today.

Also more relevant to this thread, recirculating the BOV = no more stalling (as you all knew it would). So we are good on this thread. Is there a more appropriate place to talk about the future of this car?

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Start a build thread for it! We all like to follow along.
If it is a different problem, start a new thread concerning it.
Yes, if you quit venting the BOV, it should drive SOO much better.
I run what we call Speed Density so I can vent and I don't have a MAF anymore. Along with that comes learning to TUNE. If you and your daughter start learning to tune together, like my son and I do, you will have a lot of memories to talk about.

 

[Clermas]

Start a build thread for it! We all like to follow along.
If it is a different problem, start a new thread concerning it.
Yes, if you quit venting the BOV, it should drive SOO much better.
I run what we call Speed Density so I can vent and I don't have a MAF anymore. Along with that comes learning to TUNE. If you and your daughter start learning to tune together, like my son and I do, you will have a lot of memories to talk about.

That sounds like a great plan. We both loved the venting sound s we would love to get it back. I heard about the MAFT and oversized MAF to get it back but haven't heard of what you are talking about. Tuning sounds like exactly what we are looking for. We have 3 years to build it and I can't stop searching the net for things to fix, upgrade etc. So I'm sure by the time she can drive it, it will be one good looking machine. Looking forward to working, learning and listening to everyone here. When I get home later today I will take a bunch of Before pics and start the build thread.

 

[streetraceboi]

Awesome we purchased both the front and the rear set. Fronts came in yesterday, rears are coming today.

Also more relevant to this thread, recirculating the BOV = no more stalling (as you all knew it would). So we are good on this thread. Is there a more appropriate place to talk about the future of this car?

X2 ON A BUILD THREAD. I will like to follow

 

[Dsm panda]

As for tuneing solution just go ecmlink v3 forget the maft and GM maf combo. You wont regret it best of luck hope to see a build thread pop up!

 

[Clermas]

Where do I post the build thread too fellas?