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Rebuilding my 7-bolt, few questions?

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96TalonTS-jets8

15+ Year Contributor
45
0
Oct 30, 2003
I have a 96 Talon TSI (FWD) my very first motor went in the car so I dropped another(I think it was a 97 gst motor) thinking I would be safe, but this also has crankwalk now: not as bad, but is their. And i'm going for a crank rebuild kit for the bottem end. Were I re-work the block, deck it, hone it (maybe bore .02 over), put all new main bearings in polish and balance crank. Dont know if i'll rebuild the head yet though. My question is should I buy aftermarket rods and pistons for this motor, because what I need is a reliability (which I know is hard to get when you race it, but i dont really race around every corner, just on occasions really), but nicely built street car. Like push around 18 psi max with the T28 (ors something) and I want a decent wet shot from zex. Not sure how much yet, thats why i'm asking. I figuered like 50 shot I hear is good on stock internals. But what can it hold safely, boost and N20. I know eagle rods are like 400, and JE pistons are like 500. So I was'nt all about that. But if I could just upgrade a few things like just the rods with 2g pistons, or something. Because I need it to hold it easily so i'm not straining the motor out. So pretty much whats the stock block hold safely on boost and n20 and what do i have to upgrade to hold like 20 psi and a 75-100 wet shot safely. The rest of mods are pretty basic, but I will do them later, just now while the blocks apart, I figure build that up first than add the little stuff to it. I got cat-back which i'll change to full, intake, bov, 550 injects, 190 malbro, manually boost controller, boost gauge, and act 2100. Also should I add some xtreme pulley kit and I know I need arp head studs and a thicker head gasket too.
 
If you want reliability then dont rebuild a 7 bolt that has already failed. If you insist on building a 7 bolt, then use a crank from a 2.4L 4G64 and get the stroker pistons to do a 7 bolt 2.3L. I have only heard of one 7 bolt 2.3L failing and it was a builder problem.

jeff
 
If you want reliability then dont rebuild a 7 bolt that has already failed. If you insist on building a 7 bolt, then use a crank from a 2.4L 4G64 and get the stroker pistons to do a 7 bolt 2.3L. I have only heard of one 7 bolt 2.3L failing and it was a builder problem.

jeff

Hi,

So your saying all I need is a 4g64 crank (any year) and just get different pistons, no need for different rods? What are the benefits of the this 2.3 conversion like hp, tq, and whats the compression now? Also how well does it handle boost and n20?
 
Hi,

So your saying all I need is a 4g64 crank (any year) and just get different pistons, no need for different rods? What are the benefits of the this 2.3 conversion like hp, tq, and whats the compression now? Also how well does it handle boost and n20? [/B]

Yes a 7 bolt 4G64 crank using stock 2G rods, or remachined big 1G rods or aftermarket 2G rods along with any 2.3L stroker psiton of your choice will get you a 2.3L. Its actually a little more than 2.3L depending on bore size. You can bore it enough to get 2.4L out of it if you want. Compression is going to vary depending on the manufacturer. You can get them in pretty much what ever you want. Of the shelf JE's are 8.8:1 and Wiseco's are either 8.5:1 or 8.8:1. Ross are 8.5:1 or 9.0:1.

You will see a significant increase in torque and these engines will spool a larger turbo much easier than a 2.0L due to the almost 20% increase in displacement. How they handle boost + N20 will depend on how you build the lower end. IE either stock rods or forged rods. It will also depend on you supporting mods such as fuel and fuel management.

On my site www.swordfishGSX.8m.com there is a 2.3L 6 bolt and a 2.4L long rod six bolt if you want to check them out. Also, I suggest searching on the NABR public board archives for more in depth info. I could go on and on about the advantages of a larger displacement in these cars.

Just to give you an idea. At 20 psi on a 16G on pump gas (91 octane) and no tuning other than butt dyno we put the laser on the dyno and made 360whp and 358 torque on our only pull. It was a local club dyno day so we had no time to tune or anything else.

jeff
 
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