2G Rear main seal

[gsxeclipse97]

This is crazy... The car is now running but soon as it started moving the rear main seal is now broken.. I hope that will be the last thing that needs to be fixed Ive gotten two quotes so far.. The first one was 1178 because they said that the clutch will need to be replaced because it would have been oil soaked it won't grab the flywheel. the next place said they would do it for 650 or so 600. The clutch is brand new is that true that it will need to be replaced because of the seal breaking. It just leaks its not pouring out but Im not driving it around.

 

[flashburn02]

I have replaced a rear main seal before. Your clutch well need looked at, it is very very possible that it will need replaced. I am not sure if you know where the seal is but to describe it promptly, when the seal blows it lets all kinds of fluid everywhere. You really don't want oil on your clutch for obvious reasons. Now I have heard you can soak them in break cleaner to remove the oil but I would assume that would degrade the clutch surface even more.

You really should get a new clutch, but it should add any price to the labor repair process because the labor portion is done when you separate the motor from the trans. A clutch just sorta fits in there when the tranny is seperated from the motor.

I would look into the cheaper of the two places.

 

[gsxeclipse97]

Yeah thats what I was going to do.. Do you think that I will need to have the flywheel resurfaced as well or should that be ok?

 

[flashburn02]

no, its not as porous as a clutch, you will be fine. Break cleaner it tho.

 

[boosted86]

thoose prices are outragous. to replace a rearmain. it should not go for more then 450. ands its really not that hard,you could probally do it yourself. its just alot of stuff that has to come off. but before you do , what ever your going to do,make sure that its the rearmain, i had a buddy have oil leaking out of the back of his motor and some dumbass mitsutech told him his rear main blew... it happened to be that same tech forgot to put the balenceshaft bolt back in,after doing a tb job. a problem that cost 4.50 to fix ended up costing 500. all im saying is make sure thats it.

 

[snox135]

If you just had the clutch replaced will you only need to replace the disk and not the pressure plate. Just make sure they don't charge you for a new P.P. that you don't need.

 

[flashburn02]

if you have the money, you might as well get a act2600 w/street disc.

Afterall, its about 15 minutes more labor.

 

[steel_3d]

I've had my ACT2600 with street disc oil soaked from a broken front diff. It slipped until the oil dried up, then it grabbed perfectly fine for a couple more years. This was on a fwd running about 14's, nowhere near the limit of the 2600. Not sure if it would affect the absolute limit. I believe the oil just burns up from the heat you put into the clutch, and it won't act like oil after that.

Either way, the most I would replace is the disc, unless you want to upgrade the clutch. Flywheel and pressure plate are perfectly fine, just clean them with brake cleaner.

 

[silver eclipse]

I agree with everything stated, except I would get a new clutch disk, clean the flywheel and pp. Make sure it hasnt slippped and gotten hot spot in either. Leason learned as to why you change the rearmain seal at the same time as the clutch.
Pull the cover off the trans under the engine, Make sure the oil is coming from in there.
-Chad

 

[gsxeclipse97]

Yeah there is oil in the bell housing. I wish I would have thought about that when He was looking over the motor but he said everything was in order so there would be no problems. Anyhow I'll check the motor when i get home some more But I figured that if it was the rear main seal that the oil would just pour out like it did whenever the front seal broke. The leak is very very slow and it doesn't do it right away it takes a 10 to 15 minutes before the clutch starts slipping. I figure that would be an instant if that were the case. I check the oil also and it was basicly still at the full mark. But The pedal get hard to push down and then thats when it starts slipping more. After I bleed the clutch then it goes right back to catching like there was nothing wrong with it in the first place..

 

[tom04841]

rear main leaking has nothing to do with the slipping clutch if after you bleed it, its fine. I would say that your slave cylinder is leaking. Are you sure that it is oil in the bell housing and not brake fluid leaking from the slave?

 

[flashburn02]

It sounds like you have a leak, but it isn't blown yet. Try and fix it before it becomes a problem and you should be able to keep the clutch just fine.

 

[steel_3d]

It sounds like maybe your master is pumping up. 2g's are apparently more prone to this. If you have no freeplay in the clutch the relief hole is always covered in the master, it never bleeds off, so it pumps up. Freeplay can also change as things heat up, so check freeplay when hot.

There's no reason the clutch should be harder to press just cause there's oil on it.

 

[gsxeclipse97]

Well thats a good point I just went and checked that oil could be coming from somewhere else and not from the bell housing.. All the oil that has leaked is on the driverside of the car and there is none on the side with the transmission There has been a minor oil leak from the bottom of the car but if it was coming from the seal it could come out of the transmission side.

 

[gsxeclipse97]

rear main leaking has nothing to do with the slipping clutch if after you bleed it, its fine. I would say that your slave cylinder is leaking. Are you sure that it is oil in the bell housing and not brake fluid leaking from the slave?

No I'm not but from what i can tell it seems more like brake fluid now instead of oil. I guess I cannot take firestones word on whats wrong because they didn't even know the timing was off when the car wouldn't start.

 

[gsxeclipse97]

Right now the clutch is soft just like it is after Ive bled it the 7 times now but the car hasn't gone anywhere in two days. Oil is completely full.

 

[tom04841]

replace your slave cylinder!

 

[gsxeclipse97]

all of these problem because the slave cyclinder I'm going to do that tommorrow and then see what else happens..

 

[selmerguy]

I normaly dont do this but..... How does a person that wrenches on cars for a living not know the difference between oil and DOT3 or 4 brake fluid. It sounds like they are tring to rip you off dude.

 

[gsxeclipse97]

Well Ive been there and had that done to many times already. THE shop that put the motor in didn't do the timing right and then i had to take it somewhere else to figure out why it wouldn't start and they said the timing is off by 180 degrees and i had to pay them like 400 something bucks for them to fix the other shop mistake and the shop that did it wrong wouldn't even pay for their mistake

 

[gsxeclipse97]

So the consenious is that the slave cyclinder is leaking and causing the clutch to slip.. I want to be sure of this because I don't want to fix something thats not broke.

 

[tom04841]

If the clutch is soft, goes soft agian after bleeding, clutch slips when its soft, and you have fluid coming out of the bell housing, it is a leaking slave. Fix it!

 

[silver eclipse]

I definatly agree with tom, its sounds like the slave.
No offense to any one who make work at a Firestone, Tirekingdom, Jiffy lube etc. But they are never good places to have your car diagnosed and/or major repairs done.
-Chad

 

[steel_3d]

Hmm I kinda missed this post back in the day. gsxeclipse97, did you get it figured out?

Why is everyone shouting slave?

1)

Yeah there is oil in the bell housing.

2)

But The pedal get hard to push down and then thats when it starts slipping more. After I bleed the clutch then it goes right back to catching like there was nothing wrong with it in the first place..

1) There's oil inside the bell housing. The slave can't leak up and into the bellhousing.

2) The clutch gets harder to press. A leaky slave would make it easier to press if anything, and the clutch would NOT disengage. Oil on the disc would make no difference in how hard it is to press the pedal.

1) tells me there's a leaky seal somewhere in the bell housing. Could be main seal or tranny seal. But it's most likely not what's causing the slippage.

2) tells me the master is pumping up. This is causing constant pressure on the throwout bearing, causing slippage. It's also hard to press in further when it's already pumped up. When you bleed it of course the pressure is released, and it grabs again, and the travel is back to normal.

Fix #2 first. Just dial in more freeplay at the master. Worry about #1 after.

 

[gsxeclipse97]

Yeah I got that solved I replaced the slave cyclinder and it still was slipping after that. Then i adjusted the clutch pedal and its working fine now but now at high speed the clutch seems to not be able to keep up with the flywheel. It may just be me cause I haven't driven my car hard in over a year but the one time i do it just seems funny. Also the rear main and front seal are busted so that just my luck. Also I think the turbo is dying as well lots of blue smoke comming out of the exhaust only at times though. Anyhow I'll keep everyone updated on what problems ocour next.