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rear diff mounts

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Darksyne said:
I just checked the EVO in CAPS and it doesn't look like the EVO bushings are available seperately either.


They are from energy suspension. So if they are the same size get the ES ones and you will have better ones available seperate. Assuming :dsm: uses the same dimensions on both cars.
 
Hey Dark,

What's the description for part # 34031C? That looks pretty close to the bushing I need.

Mangina,

What happens is the bushing rots away and it allows the read differential to move excessively under load. You can check by crawling under while looking back at the bushings and grab the front of your diff and wiggle it around. You'll see if they're bad.
 
Those are HUGE... That mounts the diff crossmemeber to the subframe not the diff to the crossmember. Not going to do it..
 
Zeppelin said:
What's the description for part # 34031C? That looks pretty close to the bushing I need.
The description is "BUSHING, RR DIFF RR MOUNTING" the part number is MB809334
:thumb:

And they definitely look too large. Has anyone confirmed if these bushings can even be removed from the crossmember?
 
Same design as an LCA so just press them out... Like doing ES suspension bushings....
 
Well I feel stupid. I thought we were talking about a 1st gen awd. I know for a fact the rear diff mount bushings are the same size as the front. As for a 2nd gen ya got me.
 
Zeppelin said:
What happens is the bushing rots away and it allows the read differential to move excessively under load. You can check by crawling under while looking back at the bushings and grab the front of your diff and wiggle it around. You'll see if they're bad.
On Lionels car, we could acctualy hear the diff hitting everytime he would accelerate OMG. All that movement puts bad angles at the joints and Ive been told could kill the diff.
 
Yes it can... I wish I had measurements of the parts... I'm sure there is a poly bushing that will fit.
 
DSM mechanix said:
On Lionels car, we could acctualy hear the diff hitting everytime he would accelerate OMG. All that movement puts bad angles at the joints and Ive been told could kill the diff.

Yep, that's what mine is doing too. It only clunks when I accelerate hard though.

I'm sure there's a bushing that will fit, hard part is finding that bushing. I'm going to crawl under tonight and try to get some measurements.
 
Has anyone confirmed if these bushings can even be removed from the crossmember?
you would have to break them to take them out of the sub-frame
 
So has anyone found a solution for this? Does the Evo bushing MB809334 fit the 2G GSX? Thanks for your help!!!
 
Jtromb522 said:
So has anyone found a solution for this? Does the Evo bushing MB809334 fit the 2G GSX? Thanks for your help!!!
Yea we found a solution, not the one you want to hear though. ftltalon replaced the whole rear subframe.
 
DSM mechanix said:
Yea we found a solution, not the one you want to hear though. ftltalon replaced the whole rear subframe.

Yikes!!! That is definitely not what I wanted to hear....there has to be another way. Thanks for your help though. My local parts dealership has those Evo bushings that were mentioned above and are only $15.00 so I am going to start there. I can't believe Energy or another aftermarket place does not sell a replacement....

Also, my local dealership told me that the new subframe they had in stock didn't come with the bushings....so that would seem to me they are a separate item :/

THIS BLOWS! :cry:
 
I had a set machined from solid aluminum. They work great, but increase driveline noise. Just cut the old ones out with a sawzall, and hammer the new ones into place.
 
I dropped the subframe burned the old rubber out and filled it with 94a durometer urethane mix. Once it sets it gets rock hard. This is probably the best fix.
 
haha funny you guys should bring this up. I just made some of these myself out of solid aluminum, for my car and a friends. Yep all three. I had an easier time removing the stockers because I used an air chisel and harsh language, nah with the subframe out, it only took about 15 minutes to pop the stockers out.

http://www.dvdtfab.com/diffbushings.htm

Still working a few kinks on dimensions out. The first set I made was just a hair oversized, and I had to beat the shit out of them to get them in, but the next pair is like I said, going to one of my friends, and he should have a much easier time installing them.

Enjoy!
 
Thanks guys for all your help!!! If it's one thing you can always count on, people in the DSM community always pull through and I really appreciate all your help! Shit....I feel closer to you guys than my own family hahhahaha j/k

Raped - how did you go about make the bushings and alligning the center bolt sleeve?

Sleeper142 - so I imagine the noise level from the rear has greatly increased. I am hoping to find a stock or urethane bushing replacement but you would consider making a set for me? Just let me know the cost.

Thanks guys!!!!

Justin
 
you will need to prop up the subframe so the bushings face up. duct tape the bottom so you can fill it like a cup. Center the sleeves the best you can then pour the mix.
 
man, i love how i started a post on this 6 months ago and finally people have started to realize these things break! I've been searching for a solution and I'm yet to find one yet. the idea of the hard mounts look nice and my shop and I were going to make some but decided that wedging in a really big washer would hold up for now. I've contacted es and prothane and am yet to get a reply email. I did see the evo kit but I'm not sure if it will fit. The problem is you have to drop the subframe to get the things out. In fact you can't even pull out the bolts that go through the subframe because they hit the gas tank. So since no one has come up with some soft mounts how much are those hard mounts going to be and whens the availability come about??? Also, anyone measure or try the evo 8 mounts??? I can't launch my car untill I fix this stuff.

Also people take note: If your rear end is making that clunking noise it probably is the diff moving around and slapping into things. Well while your down there looking be sure to check out the rear cv on the driveshaft. Mine was stoved inside and what was making the car feel like I had a flat tire while driving. Its 78 bucks from Mitsu. Spider gears are what I'm talking about.

D
 
Detail said:
man, i love how i started a post on this 6 months ago and finally people have started to realize these things break! I've been searching for a solution and I'm yet to find one yet. the idea of the hard mounts look nice and my shop and I were going to make some but decided that wedging in a really big washer would hold up for now. I've contacted es and prothane and am yet to get a reply email. I did see the evo kit but I'm not sure if it will fit. The problem is you have to drop the subframe to get the things out. In fact you can't even pull out the bolts that go through the subframe because they hit the gas tank. So since no one has come up with some soft mounts how much are those hard mounts going to be and whens the availability come about??? Also, anyone measure or try the evo 8 mounts??? I can't launch my car untill I fix this stuff.

Also people take note: If your rear end is making that clunking noise it probably is the diff moving around and slapping into things. Well while your down there looking be sure to check out the rear cv on the driveshaft. Mine was stoved inside and what was making the car feel like I had a flat tire while driving. Its 78 bucks from Mitsu. Spider gears are what I'm talking about.

D

If I were you, I'd head to the nearest truck off-road store and start scouring their stock. There most definately would be a suspension bushing or cab spacer that could be cut down at the local machine shop. Then you'd only be left with burning the old one out and cleaning up the hole so you can press the new bushing in.
 
I have looked around for these rear busings with no luck ... i broke my rear diff cover and twisted the axels when i launched at the track it really did a number back there. so in a pinch i just pushed all the rubber from those mounts back in and fabed up a forth mount on the drives side front of the diff to help it from twisting have not tested it yet but we will see soon
 
I have been looking for alternative ways to Mitsu's suggestion of replacing the rear member to get the bushings. So far it looks like making them myself is the only real way to get something close. I have emailed ES and got a reply that they did not see enough market requirement to cover the cost of R&D and production for the bushings. So I started looking into cost of materials to do it myself.

Assuming 2.5" dia stock, requires about 2.5" linear per bushing.

Polyurethane $24.47/ft

Delrin $38.46/ft

Duravar $63.94/ft

Protec $54.74/ft

The 4 materials picked are known for their properties for the use of rollers, bushings, and bumpstops, they hold their dimensions well and are in general in the right catagory for the application.

Cost of production would be about $3 per bushing from a local machine shop if the volume produced was 1000-10000. Any quantity under 1000 is much higher in production cost, $14 per.

I will continue my search and might see if I can get a small buisness venture going to make these bushings.
 
Nice work man. Glad to see someone else has tried to get something accomplished here. I used the two shops that I used to work at to put clout behind me when contacting ES and prothane. Neither responded at all. I also got my buddy at Nopi to try from the corporate account and didn't get a response. So I'm glad to see that they at least gave you something.

Good idea to get something started business wise. That's how I approached both companies.

Are you sure that the diameter of the bushing is exactly 2.5"? If so, how about depth wise? Anyone know the actual dimensions of the stock bushing? Give me the dimentions and I'll get the shop to put something together with stock parts off of other kits or cars. I can't take a day off work to put my car on the racks to dismantle and get the sizes myself. I'd be stuck on the rack until I figured out a fix.
 
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