rear diff bushes

[debbie]

please can some body help i have a 1997 Mitsubishi eclipse gsx and live in England and the bushes have gone on the differential the ones that are in the carrier that the diff bolts to the problem is I cant find a supplier and the dealers want me to buy the hole carrier so does any one know where in the states i would get them web address would be cool thanks Eric

 

[TSiAWD666]

I can't help you with locating the bushings, but if you don't mind me asking what are the symptoms you're experiencing with the worn bushings?

 

[debbie]

I can't help you with locating the bushings, but if you don't mind me asking what are the symptoms you're experiencing with the worn bushings?

well i went to a ### car show and on the way back my diff through the oil out and my diff start making a real bad noise any way i changed the diff got it off a member on this web sight by the way took the old one off put the new one on and got a few miles from home and every time i changed gear i got a knock it was when i lifted the clutch that it knocked so i jacked the car up and looked underneath as i did i rocked the rear wheel back and forth as i did the dif was moving quite severely and i could see the bushes were well worn and they had lots of movement this was now obviously the cause from the start

 

[20psimitsu]

No one sells the bushings in the rear sub frame by themselves. Only alternative is to buy a new subframe or do like I did and have some bushings made out of solid aluminum.

 

[debbie]

where did you get yours made and do aluminium ones work ok just seems that your putting metal where rubber once was do they last and do they not cause vibration

 

[20psimitsu]

I had my fabricator make mine by making a jig off the ones I took out of the subframe. I lost the movement of the rear diff when launching the car and made a huge difference in 60ft's. No more clunk from the rear diff!!!!!

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f241/20psimitsu/Pictures612.jpg
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f241/20psimitsu/Pictures609.jpg
These are how they look in the rear subframe.

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f241/20psimitsu/Pictures610.jpg
I also had one done for the side mount.
There is someone online that already makes them, but I could have some made also.

 

[logic]

I'm a little late to the party, but in case anyone is still looking for a source for 2g rear diff bushings:

Aspirated Performance

Be sure you really want these, though: they are an unimaginable PITA to install (oh, the front bushing is easy with a press, but you'll hate life installing the rear two). A word of advice: be very careful removing the driver's side rear bushing; it's fluid filled, and you WILL make an incredible mess of your shop if you remove it with a hole saw.

 

[turbo addict]

what are the negatives and psoitives of the aluminum bushings over poly ones?

 

[logic]

The advantage is that you can actually get aluminum bushings. I don't know of anyone who has made a regular product out of poly rear diff bushings for our cars.

The advantage of aluminum bushings are their solidity. The disadvantage of aluminum bushings are their solidity.

 

[absolute_DSM]

I havent looked at those bushings in a while and I know I need to replace mine...

Arent they like the drivers and passengers stock mounts? Meaning, couldnt you use a saw to cut the sleeve, then knock them out? (just like installing prothanes)

 

[turbo addict]

ums 2g dif bushings. aren't these poly and for the same thing as the aluminum? they cost alittle more, Just wanted to know if there is any difference and the pros and cons.
Thanks

 

[Detail]

DVDT also sells these. DV/DT fabrications

I had the same problem about 3 years ago. I tried to get the aftermarket to support us. I used the 2 shops I was working for/with to show I wasn't just some regular customer. I never got any responses from the aftermarket bushing folks. I guess they just couldn't justify the small price to make them. Ironically they make bushings for the evo's, but no 2g's.

I ended up ordering a set from DVDT. They were awesome looking. I was FREAKED out about putting them in my DD. I had a local guy redo them using the aluminum ones as a template. Unfortunately, he ended up making them out of very...very...hard urathane (sic?) type material. I didn't have a choice but to go ahead and put them in.

Logic made a great point. They are SOLID. The diff flat out doesn't move at all. Now...that seems to be great for drag. Problem is they return all the noises from the diff, subframe, etc. It sounds like a racecar on decel. Cool for about 10 minutes, then you get sick of it. Everytime a new person gets in my car they look at me like its about to blow up. I'm still trying to find a energy style bushing to replace what I have now. The search continues...

Good luck. I'm probably going to end up getting a different subframe because I almost can't take the noise anymore.

 

[WikedSicc]

Eric, I know you contacted me about the bushings and I apologize for not getting back to you about shipping. I have been extremely busy at work. I will get you a qoute as soon as I can. Lets plan on these getting shipped out early next week.

I am the one who makes these solid aluminum bushings. I am good friends with the owner of DVDT Fabrications, and he recently has been referring all bushing orders to me. I have not had them in stock for a while since; 1. I am not a shop, all the money to front these orders comes out of my pockets, 2. The lead time is huge in order to get these at such a good price, and finally 3. I had been in the middle of moving for several months. All in all, I have about 50 sets now . I will get these bushings shipped out the following day of the payment if not the day of the payment.

Anyways about the bushings. They are cnc'ed from 6061 aluminum. The stock bushings must be removed by the same process as the side engine mounts. I strongly recommend cleaning the holes with a die grinder, or something of that nature, since this is a press fit. From my experience, the front bushing can be pressed in fairly easy. The rear two are difficult, unless you can find a way to fit the subframe in a press. I cleaned the holes and hit them in with a hammer. Make sure to use a intermediary piece of material with the same or softer hardness of the aluminum. Just using a hammer could cause the bushings to mushroom.

You must realize what you are doing. You are completely taking away all material that supresses sound and vibration. You will hear gear backlash and you will feel vibrations. You will NOT break your rear end from mount movement. I have multiple launches on slicks with these things on a stock rear end and axles and I never have broken anything. You will have to decide what is important to you. If any one has questions feel free to contact me via email at [email protected]. Thanks.

 

[Detail]

You will hear gear backlash and you will feel vibrations. /QUOTE]

YES you most surely will. And everytime your prego woman rides with you, she will ALSO remind you. Life just isn't fair sometimes!

 

[D_Eclipse9916]

You will hear gear backlash and you will feel vibrations. /QUOTE]

YES you most surely will. And everytime your prego woman rides with you, she will ALSO remind you. Life just isn't fair sometimes!

I hate mine, im gonna remove the bolts and see if I can get some rubber/urethane sleeves between the bolts and the bushings...and between the diff and the bushings. Sooooo annoying on decel..

 

[absolute_DSM]

I couldnt find the bushings on the DV/DT site, maybe Im just blind.

Dan, no problem at all. You have great communication and were all busy! I got the bushings today since we live so close. 1 day shipping baby! They look like a great product. I should be able to work with them tonight. I know the rears Im probably going to have to cut out but the front looks like it will press out. No big deal, installing Prothanes didnt kill me, but gave me a good workout.

I should be able to write up a tech article with some pics if I get the time. Dan, Ill throw your info and website into it if thats ok? Im pretty sure youre the last guy providing these without having a local machine shop custom CNC'ing these.

Also, gear noise... Ill get over it. For now, its better than bad stock bushings that will most likely eat my differential. But anyways, the noise is why I have another car.

 

[Detail]

I hate mine, im gonna remove the bolts and see if I can get some rubber/urethane sleeves between the bolts and the bushings...and between the diff and the bushings. Sooooo annoying on decel..

I'm thinking a big rubber ring type bushing might help. I've been searching for something as well. PM me if you come up with something.

 

[absolute_DSM]

Ahh yes, heres that thread. Well the bushings have been installed for a few days. No issues there. Should be able to pick up my new differential bolts tomorrow and bolt everything back up.

Also, I submitted a at tech article for this with plenty of pics. Hopefully will be up soon.

 

[WikedSicc]

For anyone else that would be interested from England, shipping is $27.00. This would make the grand total $80.00 to cover shipping and payment fees.

 

[Detail]

Ahh yes, heres that thread. Well the bushings have been installed for a few days. No issues there. Should be able to pick up my new differential bolts tomorrow and bolt everything back up.

Also, I submitted a at tech article for this with plenty of pics. Hopefully will be up soon.

Nice work! If we find enough people that need this part possibly we can get an aftermarket vendor to supply urathane ones. The aluminum fixes the issue but makes the car very irritating to drive. I'd like the best of both worlds type fix.

 

[gbell]

Could someone who has already installed these in their 2g, tell me if there is anything I need to replace if I am putting in a new rear diff in with aluminum bushing? Anything I'm missing? I hear the subframe bushings are a PITA, and I'm preparing myself, but there is very little information available about replacing a rear diff.

Also I saw that Slowboy had these Slowboy Racing, Inc. :: DSM :: Suspension :: Urethane Bushings :: UMS Tuning :: 2g Rear Diffrential Bushing

They look pretty nice, but spendy.

 

[absolute_DSM]

Could someone who has already installed these in their 2g, tell me if there is anything I need to replace if I am putting in a new rear diff in with aluminum bushing? Anything I'm missing? I hear the subframe bushings are a PITA, and I'm preparing myself, but there is very little information available about replacing a rear diff.

Also I saw that Slowboy had these Slowboy Racing, Inc. :: DSM :: Suspension :: Urethane Bushings :: UMS Tuning :: 2g Rear Diffrential Bushing

They look pretty nice, but spendy.

I just did this, hopefully the tech article I spent some time on will post soon. Hint hint mods...

The only thing you have to do is knock out the stock bushings and get these in via press or beating them in.

 

[absolute_DSM]

Well, some day more people will actually understand the few options and pains of replacing these bushings. And Im here to help. The tech article has been published.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...n-aluminum-rear-differential-bushings-2g.html

Also, the technique I used can be used with the Prothane motor mount install.

Happy Boosting

 

[gbell]

Well, some day more people will actually understand the few options and pains of replacing these bushings. And Im here to help. The tech article has been published.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...n-aluminum-rear-differential-bushings-2g.html

Also, the technique I used can be used with the Prothane motor mount install.

Happy Boosting

Thanks a bunch, that is pretty much exactly what I needed!

I'm afraid the car is going to become too noisy on decel, anyone experiment with a thin urethane piece in between the bolt and aluminum bushing?

 

[logic]

Two tips I'll mention that weren't pointed out in the article:

1. Use a wire brush or wheel and clean up the holes prior to installing the bushings; usually, there's been a bunch of rusting in the general area, and cleaning that up a bit will only help (and literally only takes two minutes).
2. The bolt that runs through the front diff bushing is a good length if you'd rather try to "press" the rear two bushings into place with ratcheting action (you may have to help them in a bit first, though). Get something solid on the back against the outer ring of the hole (an old crank sprocket proved to be the perfect size) and something softer on the front (for example, a hardwood of some kind, like you'd suggested) with appropriately-sized hole in it for the bolt. Then, get out the breaker bar and a few extensions. Oh, and stock up a couple of extra bolts and nuts, as you may break a couple of them doing this.

gbell: The decel noise isn't coming from the bushing; trust me, that diff isn't moving once these bushings are in place. The old rubber bushings were absorbing a lot of vibration from the rest of the drivetrain; specifically, the harmonics of the driveshaft, and any vibration transmitted to it through the transfer case. Soft driveshaft carriers might help in that department, but that brings its own problems.