Rear axles for an N23WG RVR

[Cameron Morison]

So a bit of an odd one and only partially related to DSMs

The RVR runs a 3-bolt rear axle setup, and the bolt together flange is on the inner CV and the outer CV joint splines directly in to the hub much like the fronts... which I believe is the opposite to the G-VR4 and DSM setup where the bolt flange is at the outer CV joint.

I currently have a 3-bolt Viscous LSD in it, I have a Mechanical Plate LSD from an evo here which I was looking at installing but I dont wanna spend any money on this, Its just going to be using some spare parts ultimately belonging to the race car....

As the Evo LSD uses the larger Diff splines (same as 4-bolt) I cannot just use the open diff CV cups from an RVR, I have to either modify an evo one to have a flange (which seems to be relatively expensive unless I can get machining done for free)... Or... find axles potentially of the correct length which I can use on the RVR outer CV joint and an Evo inner CV joint. Most that stuff is all 30T on each end so I dont expect splines to be an issue however the length may be.

Has anyone got DSM axles lengths for the bare axle itself, and spline counts? I have access to some G-VR4 4-bolt ones too locally. I can start measuring up. I was thinking airtrek maybe, possibly outlander. Common stuff here in NZ but maybe not in the states. If I can find axles of the correct length then swapping them in would be the easiest option probably. If not then I might have to give up on the idea and just stick with the viscous.

 

[Tyeler18]

2g non LSD axles would probably be your best bet but cut down and resplined as they're too long for the N23 chassis out of the box. I have a bunch of axles here I can potentially dig out to measure off of but I know this was discussed on the RVR facebook page without much success. I have a local machine shop they may* be interested in machining me new axle stubs with van hubs and evo stubs, but like you mentioned cost is a factor here. I have an evo LSD as well I'd like to swap into mine and have been playing with various cars to see what I can get done.

 

[Cameron Morison]

2g non LSD axles would probably be your best bet but cut down and resplined as they're too long for the N23 chassis out of the box. I have a bunch of axles here I can potentially dig out to measure off of but I know this was discussed on the RVR facebook page without much success. I have a local machine shop they may* be interested in machining me new axle stubs with van hubs and evo stubs, but like you mentioned cost is a factor here. I have an evo LSD as well I'd like to swap into mine and have been playing with various cars to see what I can get done.

Interesting. Do you have a link to the RVR facebook group? Might be handy too.

Basically I wanted to take a evo spline (can get them from heaps of cars like legnum, airtrek, evo, GSR, outlander etc) inner CV joint and have it cut down on a lathe and weld on the flange for the 3-bolt at the right height. It's not going to be hard to do but the first engineering place I went to talked about around $500 NZD to do it which is too much.... I don't need the plate LSD in this car that much.

Front LSD is a ralliart unit and is direct fitment.

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[Tyeler18]

Interesting. Do you have a link to the RVR facebook group? Might be handy too.

Basically I wanted to take a evo spline (can get them from heaps of cars like legnum, airtrek, evo, GSR, outlander etc) inner CV joint and have it cut down on a lathe and weld on the flange for the 3-bolt at the right height. It's not going to be hard to do but the first engineering place I went to talked about around $500 NZD to do it which is too much.... I don't need the plate LSD in this car that much.

Front LSD is a ralliart unit and is direct fitment.

It's eagle summit/mitsu RVR/LRV/EXPO/Spacewagon etc etc on facebook. There is a guy on there that did exactly what you're wanting to do with success which I've considered as well but I'd be more comfortable with a full replacement stub.

 

[Cameron Morison]

It's eagle summit/mitsu RVR/LRV/EXPO/Spacewagon etc etc on facebook. There is a guy on there that did exactly what you're wanting to do with success which I've considered as well but I'd be more comfortable with a full replacement stub.

Excellent, have found it now thank you.

Ive been in contact with him and have got pictures. Its pretty much exactly what I am doing, except with a different type of inner CV. He used tripod type ones, I want to use the round style ones as they are found on my low cost cars here where the tripod ones are quite desirable for evos and VR4 galant etc. Ive used the round type ones for years in my 520whp mirage so they seem no weaker.

I think considering the large diameter of the weldable surface, I'm not expecting there to really be any issues with this setup. People weld axles themselves on some applications and I'm familiar with CVs welded at much smaller diameters on more powerful vehicles without issue. Done right it will be sweet as. Pre and post heat control will be important here.