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GST98BIG16G

15+ Year Contributor
239
1
May 24, 2006
Chicago, Illinois
Ok i posted a thread couple days ago that in my 2g the big16g is smoking ... I cleaned the intercooler and the turbo was fine. But what happened was i blew up my motor with that turbo :mad: im so f*** mad , there is a hole in my block!!!! :toobad: I HATE MY CAR and my 7bolt. What would you guys suggest me to do with that :dsm: i wanna :barf: when i see my car....
 
b4christ15 said:
That sux man, I hear ya. Now you have a good excuse to do a 6 bolt swap. :thumb:

I hear enough bullshit about 6 bolt swaps that I want to puke. ANY motor can suffer catastrophic failure from any number of reasons. Turbos don't blow motors unless the boost pressure was so high that the motor couldn't handle it. A Big 16G certainly couldn't do that. The most common causes are that something was:

A. VERY wrong with the tune
B. already on it's way out in the bottom end.

I've run a Big 16G at 28psi on a stock 2.0 and it had nothing to do with a spun rod bearing. Rather it was from the oil squirters sticking open and poor maintenance from the previous owner. Guess what? I rebuilt again as a 7 bolt stroker and it's a screamer.

If you aren't the original owner of a car, you can't vouch for how it was maintained or whether they nearly ran it dry on oil. You don't punt rods through a block without a reason. My best advice is to find out WHY this happened and make sure that the rebuild process addresses these concerns. Once the new motor is in, you and you alone know what's been done to it and you alone are responsible for making sure that it stays in the best condition.

Make sense?
 
andymoraitis said:
I hear enough bullshit about 6 bolt swaps that I want to puke. ANY motor can suffer catastrophic failure from any number of reasons. Turbos don't blow motors unless the boost pressure was so high that the motor couldn't handle it. A Big 16G certainly couldn't do that. The most common causes are that something was:

A. VERY wrong with the tune
B. already on it's way out in the bottom end.

I've run a Big 16G at 28psi on a stock 2.0 and it had nothing to do with a spun rod bearing. Rather it was from the oil squirters sticking open and poor maintenance from the previous owner. Guess what? I rebuilt again as a 7 bolt stroker and it's a screamer.

If you aren't the original owner of a car, you can't vouch for how it was maintained or whether they nearly ran it dry on oil. You don't punt rods through a block without a reason. My best advice is to find out WHY this happened and make sure that the rebuild process addresses these concerns. Once the new motor is in, you and you alone know what's been done to it and you alone are responsible for making sure that it stays in the best condition.

Make sense?

Makes perfect sense to me. However, I think the majority of people on this board will agree that if he is dropping in a new motor, it might as well be a 6 bolt. If he chooses to rebuild his 7 bolt, thats fine as well. I was just under the impression that 6 bolt > 7 bolt. :confused:
 
b4christ15 said:
Makes perfect sense to me. However, I think the majority of people on this board will agree that if he is dropping in a new motor, it might as well be a 6 bolt. If he chooses to rebuild his 7 bolt, thats fine as well. I was just under the impression that 6 bolt > 7 bolt. :confused:

No worries. I just don't want people thinking that 6 bolts are immune. Granted, they're stronger, but a late 98/99 7 bolt with the revised split thrust bearings will be fine (that's what I have). When we found the spun rod bearing, we tried yanking on the crank with a crowbar and it wouldn't budge. If you pull the pan and the motor hasn't walked then there's no problem re-doing a 7 bolt.
 
I'm interested in hearing how the turbo blow a hole in your block:confused:, I'm thinking more along the line of "user error".
 
ive seen a lot of this happen (not my car thank god) larger turbo too much boost + no fuel mod's or imporper tuneing and well = hole in block.. ive bought 3 2g's wher the previous owner slap on a 20g or even one with a 16g and think they can run mass boost wiht no fuel compensation, they are doing a 7k pull and knock knock knock the rod comes through the block..
 
jott5555 said:
ive seen a lot of this happen (not my car thank god) larger turbo too much boost + no fuel mod's or imporper tuneing and well = hole in block.. ive bought 3 2g's wher the previous owner slap on a 20g or even one with a 16g and think they can run mass boost wiht no fuel compensation, they are doing a 7k pull and knock knock knock the rod comes through the block..
My point exactly.
 
jott5555 said:
ive seen a lot of this happen (not my car thank god) larger turbo too much boost + no fuel mod's or imporper tuneing and well = hole in block.. ive bought 3 2g's wher the previous owner slap on a 20g or even one with a 16g and think they can run mass boost wiht no fuel compensation, they are doing a 7k pull and knock knock knock the rod comes through the block..

This and neglect have to be the highest rated causes of DSM death.
 
oldman said:
I'm interested in hearing how the turbo blow a hole in your block:confused:, I'm thinking more along the line of "user error".


My guess is that the Laptop screen was bad, didn't display the danger to manifold warning. The release mechanism then failed on the passenger side floorboard, and the resulting pressure build up cause a catastrophic failure of the engine block.

That or the turbo was smoking because it was burning oil, someone didn't check the oil, and pushed too much boost on a motor low on oil. Pre-ignition leads to rod knock which is compounded by low oil which leads to rod failure, equals your block is now a better window than an engine block.
 
Turbo didnt burn any oil , its a brand new big16G and it was working perfectly . what happened was bad tuning and detonation caused that and also the crankwalk that 2g engines have. :cool: Making fun of other people's problems is :notgood: wait till it happen to you then we will se whos trying to be funny.
 
So the bad tuning and detonation (reasonable perhaps) and the crankwalk caused the hole in your engine?
 
GST98BIG16G said:
Turbo didnt burn any oil , its a brand new big16G and it was working perfectly . what happened was bad tuning and detonation caused that and also the crankwalk that 2g engines have. :cool: Making fun of other people's problems is :notgood: wait till it happen to you then we will se whos trying to be funny.


I've melted holes in my pistons before but only because I knew I was pushing the absolute limits of what the engine was capable of. You shouldn't have windowed the block on a big 16g unless you were being way crazy with the boost or were way off on the tuning. :rolleyes:

Crankwalk has nothing to do with your rod failing because you tuned it wrong. :nono:
 
GST98BIG16G said:
Making fun of other people's problems is :notgood: wait till it happen to you then we will se whos trying to be funny.

No one's making fun of you, but if you can't be sure that you had crankwalk and haven't dropped the pan to check for spun bearings or crankshaft endplay, then don't blame crank movement as a cause. There are usually symptoms to this such as the clutch dropping to the floor on a hard left turn or the sound of the crank trigger scraping as the motor turns.

And just to be on the level, this DID just happen to me when the asshat that owned the car before me beat the piss out of the motor and neglected to change the oil at the recommended schedule. Learn, be careful and move on with your rebuild.
 
GST98BIG16G said:
Ok i posted a thread couple days ago that in my 2g the big16g is smoking ... I cleaned the intercooler and the turbo was fine. But what happened was i blew up my motor with that turbo :mad: im so f*** mad , there is a hole in my block!!!! :toobad: I HATE MY CAR and my 7bolt. What would you guys suggest me to do with that :dsm: i wanna :barf: when i see my car....


LOL you hate your 7 Bolt ...........(LOL) 7 bolt had nothing to do with it so why hate it ?

Stock 7 bolt's have done well over 400whp with out problems
 
You have pretty much limited options since the stock block is toast, otherwise, you could have rebuilt the internals. You can contact any of the engine builders out there like SBR, FFWD and Buschur Racing.

Buschur and FFWD generally don't build 7 bolt motors, but SBR often does. If you're on a budget you may want to consider something like a stage 1 shortblock to which you can mate your existing head and valvetrain. This is likely your least expensive option and you could likewise do the same with a 6 bolt. As mentioned above, my block was still intact and I had a revised thrust bearing setup so I chose the 7 bolt route, but that's up to you. Do some searches on 6 bolt swaps to see what it entails and if it suits your budget, you can go in that direction.

At worst, you could source a block from KarKing and hope that it''s in good shape, but a pristine buildup is preferred. You can contact the following people at the following websites:

Jon Nye (SBR) http://www.slowboyracing.com
Jarrod Barnett (Buschur) http://www.buschurracing.com
Darren King (FFWD): http://www.ffwdconnection.com

There are others like Enginetecs and Jackson Auto Machine. Do some research, talk to people and see what they recommend. The most important thing to find out is why your motor failed in order to take the correct steps so that it doesn't occur again. Also be prepared to wait 4-6 weeks for a complete shortblock since this is the busy season of the year.

Let us know if you need more help,

Andy
 
andymoraitis said:
I hear enough bullshit about 6 bolt swaps that I want to puke. ANY motor can suffer catastrophic failure from any number of reasons. Turbos don't blow motors unless the boost pressure was so high that the motor couldn't handle it.
...

Now you wouldn't be remotely suggesting this might be driver error would you?

What do you expect at 12,000 rpm... reliability?

Who knows, maybe he dropped a valve and broke the piston. I don't think JB Weld is gonna fix it.

Too bad he didn't pick up the 1G block and crank off eBay a week ago. $10 for the crank.

Cheers,
GTM
 
Funny thing, I snapped a rod and punched a oil site hole in the side of the block right after installing my Evo3 16g. I seriously doubt that the turbo had anything to do with the failure of a 150k mile DD car that had the shit abused out of it tho.

Finding a new engine isnt very hard, it only took me 3 days to find a guy selling a shortblock ready to go. Granted it was a rebuilt jdm evo 7 bolt but meh I would of settled for a 6 bolt just the same, the only perk was I didnt have to buy a new flywheel.
 
mavisky said:
My guess is that the Laptop screen was bad, didn't display the danger to manifold warning. The release mechanism then failed on the passenger side floorboard, and the resulting pressure build up cause a catastrophic failure of the engine block.

That or the turbo was smoking because it was burning oil, someone didn't check the oil, and pushed too much boost on a motor low on oil. Pre-ignition leads to rod knock which is compounded by low oil which leads to rod failure, equals your block is now a better window than an engine block.


hah! I'd go 6bolt....well I already am going 6bolt. Its just hard finding a good one locally.

and yeah these guys are right, neglect, abused, user error. all top 3.
 
User error you guys are saying. i put in brand new big16g , headers , o2 w/dump . Ok the car didnt go more than 5thousand rpm because after that it started back firing and didnt pull anymore , turbo was hooked up to all stock lines (no boost controller) and it ran fine but only at low rpm's and i have SAFC2 but i supposed to hook it up next day. THIS is how it went i just passed the tracks really slow , then put in 3 gear and applied my foot slowly on the gas pedal being afraid that is going to backfire i kept applying it slowly till like 60-70mph(not sure what was MPH) car pulled really good but then a little boom ( not that loud) and i heard pieces of metal falling underneath me. i stopped saw oil and coolant line behind my car. then pushed it to my house got a light and saw a crack deep under intake manifold. Thats my story , you decide what was wrong.
 
If the car was backfiring and not reving past 5000rpm that means that something was terribly off on your tune or with the amount of boost you were running.

If the car had started knocking hard you'd have pounded the rod bearings into submission and eventually the rod itself would've let go and punctured the block as you described.

If you were running too much boost due to creep you would be looking at the same issue.

Bottom line is that the engine began knocking, beat the bearings up, beatup the rod, and shot it out of the block.

Did you even have a boost guage hooked up to make sure the car was boosting in a correct manner? Even stock boost settings on a bigger turbo like the big 16g could push the engine lean, probably not lean enough to do this kind of damage, which is why I think that it ran more boost than stock + ran lean causing the damage.
 
mavisky said:
If the car was backfiring and not reving past 5000rpm that means that something was terribly off on your tune or with the amount of boost you were running.
...

There may be another possibility and that is the the valve timing was off. Unless he had fuel issues I would think that he should have been able to get close to redline albit slower.

Backfiring into the intake vs afterfiring into the exhaust are critical differences. It suggests too much advance on the intake valves if it were into the intake which would limit rpm. Any kind of an explosion here will try to drive the piston backwards but the inertia of the cams will possibly jump yet more advance and smack intake valves. Catostrophy is a few nano seconds away at that rpm.

Let's hope the head and the turbo are still salvageable.

Let us know what you find.

Cheers,
GTM
 
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