Quietest stock looking muffler?

[xhaust50]

Getting ready to do some exhaust work to the talon, and after searching for the quietest muffler it seems like the Greddy Evo and the HKS Carbon TI are the quitest. However, I am trying to keep the stock look so they aren't really what I am going for. I was wondering if anyone had any experience with these two stock looking mufflers off ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...ry=33636&item=7978946892&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...ry=33636&item=7978346720&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

One is an OBX and the other is a "Remus Style". I'm keeping the cat on so that should keep it quieter. Only problem with these mufflers is they don't come with a silencer like the canisters do. Any thoughts? Anyone know of anything else that fits the profile and is relatively cheap? Thanks.

 

[sweet97]

I use a magnaflow with dual 3" outlets. I would think your local auto chain store would sell something you are looking for. Magnaflow if an increase is something you are looking for.

 

[CyberEye]

magnaflow makes a 3" inlet/duel 2.5" outlet, looks VERY similar to stock.

 

[fr33b1rth]

Enter these part numbers on summitracing.com

Muffer: WLK-17221
Tips: PSM-95-9919

That would look awsome, and the resonators will help quiet it down a lot, and the muffler isnt that loud anyways.

[edit]
The center/center muffler is part #: WLK-17220

 

[spoolup]

I run a magnaflow 3" in, dual 2.5" out, short 14" body, got the idea off of a post here: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=166744 I already had a Apex N1 but the rear wal rusted out and due to increasing exhaust regulations in the area decided to go sleeper. Sounds EXACTLY the same as the N1, just had them hack the canister and weld this guy up. I do not even worry about the poilce anymore, but I did have 1 cop get out of his car at a light, look at the shaust, walk around the front look at the FMIC and walk to up to me and say, you should have a front plate, but its ALOT better than most of I have seen, keep the speed down. then get back in his car. Almost shit my self. ALOT of V8s after a race immediatly say, I thought you were stock with a BOV, sorry. it fools them all the time.

But as mentioned before, the sound is the same as when I did have the canister

 

[xhaust50]

Thanks for the responses. I forgot to mention I am going with 2.5" exhaust because I am only going to do intake/exhaust work. I am going to search through the resonators they have at summit to see if I can find some really stock looking and put them on a single outlet muffler.

 

[VBGSX]

Do any of you using the 3" in and dual out magnaflow know if it's a straight through design? Or is it a baffled muffler?
Thanks

 

[spoolup]

mine was straight thru, when I looked in the 3" side I could see straight out both 2.5 outlets.

 

[VBGSX]

Thanks
That's exactly what I was looking for.

 

[xhaust50]

Would it be possible to have an HKS muffler dump out just before my stock muffler and leave my stock muffler on for the look of would you see that easily?

 

[Below Ambient]

i have yet to be even looked at with my 3in magnflow turbo back from the local exhaust shop... im running a 3in cat too... its very quiet but not too quiet... its pretty cool to hear turbo whistles from a 14b...

magnaflow

 

[JwUoNoG]

Wow that's a good idea. Next DSM I have, I'm doing that.

 

[xhaust50]

I know the magnaflows are stock looking, but I heard they were one of the louder ones which is why I was trying to staw away from them.

Anyone else have an opinion on dumping a muffler before my stock muffler to retain the stock look?

 

[sweet97]

You can only go so quiet efore seriously restricting flow. I have the dual outlet Magna with a resonator and it's not too bad. With your cat that will quiet things and you could even add an open resonator like I have, only around $35. mark

 

[1stgensleeper]

what i would do, is dont spend money on a 2.5 inch exhaust at all, and dont waste your time cobbling something together, spend the money on a good 3" downpipe then weld in the ATP virtual exhaust diverter, it uses a wastegate actuator to open up a valve right after the 3" downpipe maintaining all stock equipment and even completely stock sound when not under boost, but when you boost the valve opens and a full 3 inch exhaust, you can even control the valve to partially open and such with a boost controller just like a wastegate, best bang for your buck and COMPLETELY sleeper

to read more: http://www.atpturbo.com/root/releases/release091004.htm

 

[87supra_90gsx]

I like the ATP valve but what would you use to open the wastegate actuator. A vacuum line? And what vacuum line cause i really dont want to buy a exhaust.

 

[xhaust50]

Valve idea looks cool, not really what I'm going for though. I'm thinking about putting on a high flow cat, resonator, and an HKS and have it exit just before my stock muffler. I might somehow just leave the back of the stock muffler and the tips attached if possible. I'm just spitballing though. I'm gonna go look under my car and see what can be done.

 

[1stgensleeper]

I like the ATP valve but what would you use to open the wastegate actuator. A vacuum line? And what vacuum line cause i really dont want to buy a exhaust.

Any vacuum line you want as long as it "sees" positive pressure while in boost, so anywhere after the compressor turbine but before the intake valve, i dont know what they recommend but id try to keep it before the TB plate, cause than it wont slam closed and probably maintain better spool charicteristics

 

[xhaust50]

Just checked under the car. I think I can definitely hack the stock muffler enough to only leave the back and the tips on, which is all you can see from behind the car unless you are under it. Then I would have a high flow cat / resonator / HKS dump right before back of stock muffler and tips. Any thoughts?

Also, from my search it seems that resonators and glasspacks are pretty much the same, so I could add either one inline to quiet the exhaust down? Thanks.

 

[1stgensleeper]

Also, from my search it seems that resonators and glasspacks are pretty much the same, so I could add either one inline to quiet the exhaust down? Thanks.

theres actually a huge difference between Resonators and glasspacks, but to this day i have yet to find a real TRUE resonator, if you have a resonator, you should be able to hold it up by the end, flick it with you finger and it should "ping" because it has steel internal baffles and NO packing meterial, glasspack however use packing to baffle, a REAL resonator is definately the best way to go and quiets the car down the most, but a real one is extremely expensive (when compared to a glasspack), and honestly not worth it, but if you buy a glasspack just remember, they rust....FAST make sure to hit it up with some decent high heat paint

www.Kteller.com they have really nice glasspacks not only that they have stainless steel glasspacks, those wont rust, and theyre a decent price

 

[xhaust50]

^^^^ Great info and link. Thanks man.

 

[sweet97]

My system is a kteller with resonator that they sell. I went with a 4"longer muffler thugh as a larger canister is quieter. Mine is an 18" long Magnaflow. Having the exhaust exit before the back of the car would certainly add to interior noise. What's the reason for the totally stock look? i had an HKS on another turbo car and it was really quiet. Mark

 

[1stgensleeper]

^^^^ Great info and link. Thanks man.

no problem man thats what the forums are here for

 

[xhaust50]

What's the reason for the totally stock look? i had an HKS on another turbo car and it was really quiet. Mark

I'm just not a fan of aftermarket looks, especially big tipped mufflers. As far as interior noise, it's going to exit right into the back of the muffler, pretty much through the stock tips. Glad to hear your HKS was quiet though.

 

[fr33b1rth]

what i would do, is dont spend money on a 2.5 inch exhaust at all, and dont waste your time cobbling something together, spend the money on a good 3" downpipe then weld in the ATP virtual exhaust diverter, it uses a wastegate actuator to open up a valve right after the 3" downpipe maintaining all stock equipment and even completely stock sound when not under boost, but when you boost the valve opens and a full 3 inch exhaust, you can even control the valve to partially open and such with a boost controller just like a wastegate, best bang for your buck and COMPLETELY sleeper

to read more: http://www.atpturbo.com/root/releases/release091004.htm

The whole idea of a boost activated dump is absolutly stupid. Bigger exhausts allow the turbo to breathe better, causing faster spoolup, which gets u into boost faster. What is the point of spooling slow THEN having a free flowing exhaust. You are only getting half the plus side of an exhaust....

Ude be better off porting the turbo, tubular O2, 3" DP, 3" electric cutout, then stock exhaust.

Take a look at the ATP product, it's a "T" setup... pointless. It relies entirely on backpressure to force the exhaust out of the pipe.

Now take a look at this:
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...part=SUM-G4822&autoview=sku&Ntk=KeywordSearch

This product atleast is angeled to aid in the natural flow of the exhaust out of the cutout. Add an electric cutout and you'll be set.