The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Question on a few areas

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Kod

10+ Year Contributor
289
1
Mar 29, 2011
Kingston, Pennsylvania
Well first thanks to anyone willing to help me out with what they can.

My car is the automatic (was gonna swap it) but was talked out of because of the fact you never loose boost.

I do need to do another BLT, but I also need to replace my lower i/c piping with hard piping... my upper i/c piping is hard. (can't find anything under 150$ atm..)

Car does act very odd at times, sometimes pulls hard as can be, then at times it's spooling but just doesn't want to go.

Also just lost my horn 2 - 3 weeks ago? And now my lights flicker and all grounds that I have found are good. Just had the charging system checked and all is good. So this has me baffled too.

My ISC is unplugged too because I haven't had the money to replace it because old one is shot resistance is high for all coils.

And was wondering if eliminating the 2 solenoids (vacuum lines on the firewall) are worth deleting or not?

My flex pipe is cracked (the resonator on the downpipe) but now since I finally got around to replacing the rear motor mount, I can hopefully get that fixed next week. (Don't know if this could be causing mass power issues with back pressure to turbo or not)
 
First you have to check for boost leaks. Maybe you have a loose clamp and the pipe moves around some times sealing and some times not. Easy thing to do.
I don't think a cracked exhaust pipe would give more back pressure, anything it would give a faster exhaust out ...i.e. more POWER!!!!LOL. Stick to the basics, spark plug gap, fuel pressure, fuel filter, vacuum hoses, timing and etc....
Regards;

TRILOGY TURBOS
 
My fuel filter I just changed last year, all my pipes are good because I just re did them when I did the rear motor mount.

My last leak was the O - ring on the BISS screw.
 
i had a question about that to i was an still am debating deleting a few hoses is there really any gains besides looks?

i just bought a egr delete plate too same with that will u notice or feel or hear anything?
and i can make you custom piping for you cars ic piping i did it for 2 cars plus mine and it works flawless. and its way cheaper and just as strong using exhaust piping. only downer part is it dosnt look very fancy but me myslef am going for the sleeper effect! and its working!!!! :)
 
Anybody know if you can just replace the flex pipe on the down pipe or just buy a new down pipe?
 
My down pipe is 2.5 and or 3 inch I can't remember which need to measure it
 
Most likely the reason why it will spool but not pull sometimes is because of knock or phantom knock, the ecu see knock (weather its pk or not) and retards timing to try to eliminate knock causing the turbo to spool but the car just will not pull. Find some way to monitor knock.
 
You can buy a new flex section and weld or have it welded in. Most auto stores sell the flex section such as advanced auto parts. However, if your flex is bad and your still running a stock exhaust then now would be a good time to save up and upgrade to a bigger downpipe, high-flow cat (or straight pipe) and cat-back.
 
You can buy a new flex section and weld or have it welded in. Most auto stores sell the flex section such as advanced auto parts. However, if your flex is bad and your still running a stock exhaust then now would be a good time to save up and upgrade to a bigger downpipe, high-flow cat (or straight pipe) and cat-back.


I got the Apex'i N1 full exhaust (turbo back)

Most likely the reason why it will spool but not pull sometimes is because of knock or phantom knock, the ecu see knock (weather its pk or not) and retards timing to try to eliminate knock causing the turbo to spool but the car just will not pull. Find some way to monitor knock.

How would I go about this? Never even heard of it to be honest with you.
 
How to figure out what is going on, but I do think my lifters probably need to be replace with the "revised" ones because they do knock unless I use royal purple, using castrol full syntec atm and it's eh.

But what's odd is that it only does it bad at start up... after it warms up it calms down a lot too barely any knock.

I know nothing about founding out about knock but just did a little research and see it could be lifter knock, a bad knock sensor, the wiring for the sensor, or get my computer socketed and run ECMLink but then i also need a laptop...
 
Check for blt, test the isc, grab a way to tune your car so you can see knock logger, ecmlink something, could be a bad sensor phantom knock. Why get new lifters are they ticking?
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 1g MD122260 Forward Facing Oil Filter Housing
    Up for sale Discontinued MD122260 Forward Facing Oil Filter Housing $150.00 shipped plus paypal...
    • BTKai
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G OEM AWD Manual Driver Front Axle
    2G OEM AWD Manual Driver Front Axle $80 + shipping & paypal feesYou must be registered to see...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 4G63 6 Bolt Oil Pump Pickup
    6 Bolt Oil Pump Pick Up $60 + shipping & paypal feesYou must be registered to see element.You...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G AWD Fuel Pump Hanger
    2G AWD Fuel Pump Hanger $200 + shipping & paypal feesYou must be registered to see element.You...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G AWD Fuel Level Sending Unit
    2G AWD Fuel Level Sending Unit $85 + shipping & paypal fees* this is not the fuel pump hanger...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top