DSMLink question and a few others...

[cHz]

No-lift-to-shift2 Keep the throttle down during shifts. Reduces lag and provides smoother shifting in many cases.

I'm curious to how that works. Can someone explain to that to me how that works?



Then, with DSMLink, supporting fuel system, a turbo that can handle it, what is the max boost I can run and use as my dd without hurting anything? Then, say I go to the track and take a few runs, what's the max I can boost then? Then, , the same question with a built bottom end?



Sorry for all the noob questions. I researched and didn't find too many answers and what I did find, there were mixed opinions, so I just want to get it settled out.

 

[president95]

Um, dsmlink doesn't work with NT's..

 

[keymaster]

He's right. Unless you have a different car than listed in your profile, DSMLink won't work with your car.

 

[DGajre777]

No-lift-to-shift2 = You keep your foot on the gas pedal at WOT when you change gears.

Max boost depends on the turbo you get. A Big 16G at 20 psi doesn't flow the same as a FP Green at 20 psi. The turbo determines how much HP you'll make.

 

[cHz]

I know DSMLink doesn't work on N/T's. I'm not that dumb, I'm going to be using it on a GSX.

 

[TSIMonsteR]

^^^ well your profile says "96 Eclipse N/T" , and there has been alot of dumb questions here (I've asked a few) so we can't assume you know anything really.

Anyway, the idea behind this is that by not lifting your foot to shift, the trottle plate doesn't close, thus forth, you don't lose your boost (the BOV doesn't have to release any air) Basically like and A/T DSM

 

[cHz]

^^^ well your profile says "96 Eclipse N/T" , and there has been alot of dumb questions here (I've asked a few) so we can't assume you know anything really.

Anyway, the idea behind this is that by not lifting your foot to shift, the trottle plate doesn't close, thus forth, you don't lose your boost (the BOV doesn't have to release any air) Basically like and A/T DSM

I understand that far, but what do you do with the clutch? If you don't push it in, that's basically poweshifting and say "bye, bye tranny" and if you do push it, it'll just rev out?

 

[MrBoxx]

I'm curious to how that works. Can someone explain to that to me how that works?

The NLTS system uses the clutch safety switch to send a signal to the ECU when the clutch is up or down. DSMLink can be set to activate this feature above a certain speed.

From the DSMLink User's Guide:

Select Enabled clutch cut if you have connected the clutch switch to the ECU as outlined in the DSMLink instruction sheet that came with the wire. Once enabled and connected properly, you can select a shift rev limit that will be active anytime the clutch pedal is in and vehicle speed is greater than Launch Spd. Launch Spd is used to determine the point at which the rev limit changes from Launch to the full Rev limit.

The User's Guide can be downloaded for free from here. I highly recommend downloading it and reading it, beginning to end, before getting it. There's lots of good info in it.

Then, with DSMLink, supporting fuel system, a turbo that can handle it, what is the max boost I can run and use as my dd without hurting anything? Then, say I go to the track and take a few runs, what's the max I can boost then? Then, , the same question with a built bottom end?

There is no possible way to give you an answer to this question. DSMLink can be used with a totally stock car if you wanted to. The turbo doesn't handle the fuel system; it's the other way around. As far as what safe boost you can run, both daily driving and at the track, and with a built bottem end, that fits the profile of bench racing. There's no possible way to answer the question. Every car will be different, and every driver will tell you something different.

 

[DGajre777]

I understand that far, but what do you do with the clutch? If you don't push it in, that's basically poweshifting and say "bye, bye tranny" and if you do push it, it'll just rev out?

You press the clutch when you want to change gears.

 

[oldman]

and if you do push it, it'll just rev out?

No it will not. When the clutch is pushed in it sends a signal to the ecu to activate a temporary rev limiter, the rev limiter value is what you enter into DSMLink, 4k/4.5k/5k....etc.

 

[cHz]

No it will not. When the clutch is pushed in it sends a signal to the ecu to activate a temporary rev limiter, the rev limiter value is what you enter into DSMLink, 4k/4.5k/5k....etc.

Alright, thanks. That's what I was trying to find out, I assumed it did something along those lines, but I just wanted to makre sure.

 

[boostedinaz]

It is basically just a lower rev limiter that is used when you push in the clutch and the car is moving.

So just like you spool the turbo with the stutterbox at the line the NLTS does the same when the clutch is in.

 

[kawboy]

So basically, DSMlink can turn your manual into an automatic, yet lighter and more efficient.

Interesting

 

[MrBoxx]

No, you're still pushing in the clutch and manually changing gears. All it does is keep the rev's from going into redline while the clutch is in.

 

[cHz]

Now a question of turbos... I am debating between the EvoIII 16g and the T04E 50 Trim. I read some reviews on the 50 and it seemed pretty good, quick spooling for a big turbo and very streetable. So if I go with the Stage III Turbine Wheel and .63A/R Turbine Housing will it bolt right up? I know for the EvoIII you need the 2g install kit, do I need something similar with this one?

 

[olmytsi]

The main part of the 2g install kit is the j pipe. All you need if you get a 50 trim is an oil feed line and return line. Make sure you get a bot on 50 trim (mitsu flange turbine housing). And you will need a 3 inch intake pipe.

 

[cHz]

The main part of the 2g install kit is the j pipe. All you need if you get a 50 trim is an oil feed line and return line. Make sure you get a bot on 50 trim (mitsu flange turbine housing). And you will need a 3 inch intake pipe.

So will the T3/T4 Hybrid Turbo T04E 50 Trim bolt right up? http://www.diamondstarmotorsport.com/turboparts.shtml The one for $775 will that work or what else will I need to buy?

 

[olmytsi]

Because the ones above that section say "bolt on", it leads me to conclude that the turbonetics ones are straight garret or turbonetics manifold flanges (you would need a manifold). Just call them and ask.

Also, the comparison picture at the bottom against the 20g shows that the turbonetics has a non-mitsubishi turbine housing.

 

[kawboy]

No, you're still pushing in the clutch and manually changing gears. All it does is keep the rev's from going into redline while the clutch is in.

Yes I know

I meant automatic in the sense that you don't have to lift to shift and that you can build boost from a dead stop.

 

[2gGSX]

It is basically just a lower rev limiter that is used when you push in the clutch and the car is moving.

So just like you spool the turbo with the stutterbox at the line the NLTS does the same when the clutch is in.

Exactly, the NLTS is effectively a 3-step which sets up a tertiary rev limiter given speed is above a set limit and in this case the clutch is pushed in.

 

[cHz]

Because the ones above that section say "bolt on", it leads me to conclude that the turbonetics ones are straight garret or turbonetics manifold flanges (you would need a manifold). Just call them and ask.

Also, the comparison picture at the bottom against the 20g shows that the turbonetics has a non-mitsubishi turbine housing.

Alright, I planned on upgrading the manifold anyways. I was going to purchase the DN Performance Manifold.

 

[DGajre777]

Alright, I planned on upgrading the manifold anyways. I was going to purchase the DN Performance Manifold.

If it is daily driven car, I don't recommend a tubular manifold. You will be better off with a ported cast manifold like the one SBR makes ($300) or the cheaper GT version ($150) sold by turbochargers.com.