Question: Driveshaft Carrier Bearing==

[jm1080]

Im having a problem with vibration so i noticed the rear driveshaft carrier bearing is loose. The front 1 is perfect.

Is that all I need to replace to fix the problem? Or should I replace the front 1 as well?

Also does anyone know approximately how much the carrier bearing is? I only saw it on MachV site and couldnt find anywhere else, not even Advanced Auto Parts or Autozone.
My uncle gets discounts from Advanced Auto Parts, but i have to wait until the order arrives because they dont have it in stock. I dont know if I should order from MachV or just wait for the price of Advanced Auto Parts. All I need to replace the bearing is the carrier bearing right? I dont need a kit or nothing right?

Thanks.

 

[cruisintalonawd]

i think it was Extremepsi that i some them for $80

 

[jm1080]

Hm, didnt see it on there. On MachV the rear driveshaft carrier bearing is $59 and the front one for $54. It doesnt need to be a kit or anything to install right? I just tak out the old carrier bearing and replace with the one they give me right?

 

[nfernotalon]

Dont people fill them up with grease? Or is that just when it makes a clunking noise?

 

[kahl23]

No one delivers bearings pre-packed. There are plenty of articles out there on how to do it properly and even some tools to help do the job right. Just Google "How to pack bearings."

 

[jm1080]

?? Im confused with the last 2 posts? My uncle is going to install the rear driveshaft carrier bearing. I just dont know if when I buy in the MachV website, is that all im going to need for the installation? Or will I need additional things for installation.

And the other question was, if that is all I should install, or should I install other things that are probably old while were installing the rear driveshaft carrier bearing? Like the front one?

Thanks again.

 

[CTP]

Dont people fill them up with grease? Or is that just when it makes a clunking noise?

They fill them with windoweld/polyurethane for the clunking noise and it works quite well. I'd fixed his issue of the worn out rubber too, but if he doesn't like vibration then he really won't like solid bearings.

 

[jm1080]

They fill them with windoweld/polyurethane for the clunking noise and it works quite well. I'd fixed his issue of the worn out rubber too, but if he doesn't like vibration then he really won't like solid bearings.

Dont know what you guys are talking about

you guys talking about the homade quickfix? I think I read it somewhere, but anyways can anyone please answer my 2 questions from my previous post? Thanks.

 

[NB4G63T]

Replace both bearings and read this link under drivetrain, drivesahft Visual Frequently Answered Questions - Home Page

 

[jm1080]

Replace both bearings and read this link under drivetrain, drivesahft Visual Frequently Answered Questions - Home Page

Thanks yea I already checked out those articles. so the ones from MachV is all I need right? Also what about u-joints? what that? I hear about them in the articles, Do I need to worry about that? Thanks again.

 

[NB4G63T]

Yes those ones from machv and as for u-joints if there sticking replace, as they can cause a vibration when bad. Mate marking driveshaft peices is very important.

 

[wannarace]

I had my propeller shaft rebuilt not too long ago... I bought the carrier bearings from MACHV. that's all you need from them. you will want to buy and replace the u-joints as well.

 

[wannarace]

Yes those ones from machv and as for u-joints if there sticking replace, as they can cause a vibration when bad. Mate marking driveshaft peices is very important.

to add to that, yes, use a paint marker or something visible. i didn't, got chewed out by the shop that helped me, and they had to re-balance for me. also be carefull of the flex joint behind the front carrier. can't remember what it's called. pay very close attention to how that comes appart. took me 3 tries putting it back together. you'll know if it's wrong.. won't flex correctly. IMO, replace everything you can. saves you from having to do it twice.

 

[jm1080]

to add to that, yes, use a paint marker or something visible. i didn't, got chewed out by the shop that helped me, and they had to re-balance for me. also be carefull of the flex joint behind the front carrier. can't remember what it's called. pay very close attention to how that comes appart. took me 3 tries putting it back together. you'll know if it's wrong.. won't flex correctly. IMO, replace everything you can. saves you from having to do it twice.

wow thanks for help guys. Where exactly do I buy u-joints? I looked everywhere.

1 More thing, my uncle has done this before, but I have never asked him how it works or the details, hes going to teach me, but what do you mean by using a paint marker? What do you need it for?

So many terms , wish I knew

I also read on the MachV site that you might as well rebuild the driveshaft? How that work, should I worry about that or just replace the carrier bearings?

Sorry for the questions guys, i just dont want to get anything wrong.

 

[wannarace]

use the paint marker to basically mark a line down the middle of the shaft. the idea is to mark the joints so that when it goes back together it is still balanced. like i mentioned earlier if you don't you have to have it re-balanced.

by rebuilding the drive shaft, they are simply refering to the u-joints and such. really anything that moves. you might check also, i think there is a yolk you can buy from mach V. there is a recall on these cars (good idea to find out if yours was done) for the transaxle ( yolk being the very front of the shaft transaxle being what the yolk plugs into) leaks. when you get to take out the shaft notice the underbody of the car around the yolk and transaxle, if you see a fluid ring. either the recall hasn't been done or you need this:

1G AWD Driveshaft Repair Yoke

if no sign of a gear oil ring under your car, i wouldn't worry about it.

as far as where to get u-joints, the shop i went to ordered them from a supplier, so i'm not too sure where to go. Maybe NAPA.

for the recall thing check this out:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/1460-transfer-case-recall-merged.html

 

[kahl23]

You can probably buy the u-joints from NAPA or Autozone. If all else fails, you can suck it up and give your hard earned cash to your local Satan (Mitsu dealership).

 

[1997hciv]

Go to JNZtuning.com. I had the same problem with the vibration which was caused by a combination of my front axle and driveshaft u-joints. My front axle shaft was all torn up and the u-joints were pretty wore and thats what caused the vibrations. Dont buy the u-joint from napa or anywhere else like that...they will snap as soon as you hit the gas because of the grease fitting-its not all one piece like the OE which is the one JNZ sells. If you call JNZ up they will take care of you. Just ask him for 3 yoke replacement kits...the reason I say this 3 is because each yoke comes with a U-joint that you can remove, so remove two of them and put on the drive shaft and replace the yoke with the third one u-joint and all, which was a recall on our cars. The 97 is a bit different with filling them with silicone because there is no hole to pump the silicone in, once you get under there youll see what I am talking about. Youll need some fluid for your transfer case as well. And yea mark each driveshaft section with whiteout on each end to keep them in the same organization(balanced). Hope this clears up a few things.

 

[jm1080]

Thanks for responses guys. I just talked to my uncle and he explained how it works. Well he wants me to save money and just replace the rear driveshaft carrier bearing, he said the other one is perfect and if something happens then well just do it again, he wants me to save money

Anyways he said that when we do the job, he will check the u-joints if they need to be replaced or not. I guess since he wants me to save money, it will be his problem for doing the job again . I really dont care because I save money and im learning

But also about the yolk repair, isnt that only for the 1G?

Thanks for the help.

 

[1997hciv]

Nope and each u-joint cost 80 and each yolk replacement from JNZ cost 30 which includes the new u-joint as well.

 

[jm1080]

Nope and each u-joint cost 80 and each yolk replacement from JNZ cost 30 which includes the new u-joint as well.

wow that good deal , yea I like JNZ for OEM parts, I havnt looked at their site for some reason though, think I lost it from favorites or something, got to check it out again.

Hopefully I get this done by this week and see if I need all that stuff. Trying to save for the ACT 2600