2G Question about '98 GS A/T

[Warborg]

Still fairly new to the DSM scene so trying to learn all the ins and outs... For the GS/420a is the correct transmission model the 41TE (A604)? It's just a DD and likely will never see a turbo, I just want to maximize what it has in it and try to keep it up and as reliable as possible... With that being said, would there be a point to rebuilding the valve body with a shift kit, and what is the recommended ATF for it? Lastly, has anyone actually added an external transmission cooler to one of these? I figured it'd be beneficial for longevity and I've heard some A/Ts behave a bit better with more efficient cooling...

 

[bryanwheat]

Yes it is just an a604. As for a shift kit, that wouldn't really benefit you at all. A good aftermarket cooler and a fluid flush would be a good idea.

 

[Warborg]

Ok, thank you for your input... I think it needs a valve body rebuild so that's why I was wondering about the shift kit. Is doesn't slip or anything, but at times it has lazy shifts... From everything I've read, that's indicative of a sticky valve body so just got me to wonder if a shift kit would be a good idea for a DD or just go the stock route.

As far as ATF, is it ATF+4?

 

[bryanwheat]

I would get it flushed before messing with the valve body. Old fluid can make the trans shift real strange. Atf+4 is what you want. Some of the owners manuals in these call for dexron, but the are made for a Chrysler type 7176 fluid which is an atf+3 which is replaced by the atf+4 . If you don't want to pay to have it flushed than you can drain it and refill drive it for 20 miles, drain and refill than do it again until the fluid is red.

 

[Warborg]

Ok, thanks... It's a higher mileage car, so are these transmissions safe to flush when they are long in the tooth? I ask because I (unfortunately) had a 2001 Ford Taurus a while back and was told by everyone that by all means do not have them powerflushed or anything because they were delicate and half the time the old varnishes and stuff actually held them together and if you flushed them they'd end up slipping and dying (and was also told that a little over 100K and they'd start to die... Guess what? Even without the flush as prolly about 105k-110K miles it started slipping bad anyway and I dumped it)...

 

[bryanwheat]

That is for the most part a myth. New fresh fluid is always better than old contaminated fluid.

 

[Warborg]

That is for the most part a myth. New fresh fluid is always better than old contaminated fluid.

While I viewed the info with some skepticism, the explanation of it being a weak transmission (which was reinforced by it dying on me just over 100K like I had read so many times) mixed with a power flush removing some of the buildup keeping some of the seals tighter and it being dislodged and blocking passages into the tranny sounded like it might have merit... Perhaps a "perfect storm" to cause a problem on an already weak transmission. So I just wanted to make sure the Eclipse tranny didn't have any inherent weakness that I would have to worry about if I were to have it flushed...

 

[bryanwheat]

It will be fine, but if you are worried about it than just do the drain and fill. The biggest reason you had transmission problems with the tarus is because those transmissions are one of the worst out there. Back around 2002-2004 i worked for a transmission shop and the very most common one that we rebuilt was the ford axod-e and ax4s transmissions. The next was gm 4t60e, mazda ecat, mitsubishi km series, chrysler a604's, gm 4l60's ford a4od's and a few others. last few are least problematic but still one of the more common transmissions with common issues.

 

[Warborg]

Ok, I might just get it flushed then... You just confirmed that there was a worry about doing anything to the Ford transmission because it completely sucks...