PVC port on 4G63 Block

[Metal Health]

Ok heres whats happening, I have two 1/2 O.D. barbs welded on top of valve cover. One going to a check valve to catch can to intake, the other to catch can to intake turbo pipe. Much like stock, only bigger lines.

Problem is PCV side is sucking tons of oil into catch can in matter of minutes. like a straw in a soft drink. The baffling is still in the valve cover untouched. my vacuum is around 15 hg at idle.

Ive thought of a solution, tell me what you think.

Drill/tap a hole for 1/2" 90* barb on top of balance shaft hump on the front of the 4G63 motor. Just south of the water pipe.

1. it will help keep oil out of the lines/catch can/intake.
2. vapors drawn out at lower end of motor allowing oil to freely fall from head, back to pan without a vacuum upstream.
3. this is the highest an driest part of the block to perform this mod.

I would like to keep a closed pcv system. (no breathers)

Has anyone done this?

 

[BogusSVO]

Bogus: may be you can answer for me. Why did he choose to tap a spot on the front BS vs the already tapped hole on the rear? Is there a size difference cause i thought the rear hole was pretty damn big.

That I can not say. His block, his engine, his build, his choice.

My question to the OP is why did you choose a Fram oil filter?

 

[Metal Health]

Ok so if anyone has read the starting post it states "has any of you done this?" I dont need a history lesson wiseman, you havent given any solutions from your own trial and errors. If a baffle is needed show me one, show me a solution, if not dont talk. This applies to landspeed aswell, you have told me nothing of value.

Someone that can pour concrete evidence on this will be valued, if your gonna sit there an "think" you got it figured out, your life may be full of surprises.

 

[lasthope05]

Ok so if anyone has read the starting post it states "has any of you done this?" I dont need a history lesson wiseman, you havent given any solutions from your own trial and errors. If a baffle is needed show me one, show me a solution, if not dont talk. This applies to landspeed aswell, you have told me nothing of value.

Someone that can pour concrete evidence on this will be valued, if your gonna sit there an "think" you got it figured out, your life may be full of surprises.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/dsm-build-journals/427423-1gb-talon-tsi-16g-methanol-2.html#post153097019

Here you go. Its simple, if your valve covers have baffles because the cams sling oils its common sense your block is going to need them also with the crankshaft doing the same.

Next time instead of getting all butt hurt, you can just ask nicely "I dont know how to build a baffle or what it is supposed to look like. Can anyone show me?"

 

[boost97gst]

See, if it was run on the back of the block you could have ran a longer section of vertical, large diameter hose and gravity would help you out. Letting more air and less oil make it to the catch can. I would fab up a small canister with baffling in it, feed it vertically, and see how that goes. what oil gets up in the line should drain back down after a pull. Being in the front location you are limited by vertical available space. Just run over then up. Try to keep it angled so it will flow back down into the block. I think that makes enough sense

 

[Metal Health]

Oh hey was that on the front side or back side of the block?.. This makes a big diff. (1GB Talon TSI 16G, on methanol) Lasthope05


I didnt go with that back of the block, I know that guys do, I didnt feel comfortable after looking inside a spare block. I thought when at WOT and oils coming down from the head or slightly up that wall from the pan; it could get sucked through the PCV that way. 100% hands down agree with that.

Now on the front side on the other hand its in a pocket. Idk if you have a block laying around but look in it. If you notice in that pocket it looks almost dry, meaning didnt look like the rest of the walls inside (wet with oil residue). Thats when a light bulb went off. ding ding ding we have a winner. Not only that the hole I made is between above inline with the webbing on the lower block which means it now is not in line of sight. The most im gonna get here, again this is all speculation is just a mist...

 

[boost97gst]

Well, please update us after its been tested and let us know how much,if any, oil gets pushed from that spot. It may be a great option. Give her a test run and report back.

 

[lasthope05]

Doesn't matter if there is a pocket up front. If anything it will pool more in that valley. These motors spin clockwise and with the front of the engine oil is predominately being slung upwards VS the rear coming down.

 

[NHerron]

Not only the oily residue results, I'm mainly interested in the CC measured pressure results, if you have a spare MAP sensor to make a run with.

 

[BogusSVO]

Ok so if anyone has read the starting post it states "has any of you done this?" I dont need a history lesson wiseman, you havent given any solutions from your own trial and errors. If a baffle is needed show me one, show me a solution, if not dont talk. This applies to landspeed aswell, you have told me nothing of value.

Someone that can pour concrete evidence on this will be valued, if your gonna sit there an "think" you got it figured out, your life may be full of surprises.

I have only been running the style of PCV system you are fabbing up for 20 years, that a German engineer designed in the late 60's early 70's, in both NA and turbo form.

If you also keep in mind that car manufactures are cheap, and look to save half a penny per unit, you know that they will cut corners and not add anything that is not truly needed or required.

So with that said, Pic= Proof

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This is the external baffle can, if you cut one open, it is a simple piece, just a couple metal plates with some wire mesh, much like a cheap catch can.

On the inside of the block just under the can, there is a simple baffle to keep oil from being slung into the opening.

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So I will say there is merit to installing an internal baffle.

Even more so with the location you chose, due to the fact of crank rotation, and the oil the slings off the counter weights from the mains, and the rod throws.

Oil bleeds out from between the bearing and crank.

So it is just logic oil will be thrown up into the area you drilled and tapped. More so with it being upwards in that side of the block

On the baffled Ford 2300, the baffle is on the downward side of the block where the vent is.

Also the vent in the Ford 2300 is about an inch closer to the oil pan than where you put your vent.

Yes I measured locations on both a 4g63 block and a 2300 block.

Oh hey was that on the front side or back side of the block?.. This makes a big diff. (1GB Talon TSI 16G, on methanol) Lasthope05


I didnt go with that back of the block, I know that guys do, I didnt feel comfortable after looking inside a spare block. I thought when at WOT and oils coming down from the head or slightly up that wall from the pan; it could get sucked through the PCV that way. 100% hands down agree with that.

Now on the front side on the other hand its in a pocket. Idk if you have a block laying around but look in it. If you notice in that pocket it looks almost dry, meaning didnt look like the rest of the walls inside (wet with oil residue). Thats when a light bulb went off. ding ding ding we have a winner. Not only that the hole I made is between above inline with the webbing on the lower block which means it now is not in line of sight. The most im gonna get here, again this is all speculation is just a mist...

Now since the 4g63 oil pan has a slosh baffle built in, the more I think on it, it is more logical to put the vent at the back of the block, even tho it is lower in the block, and is just off center of #3 rod. But I would still say install a baffle here too. But oil slosh from the oil pan will be minimal. But oil slung off the crank will be greatly reduced by this point also.


Now, It looks like you used a 90* fitting, with a 1/4 npt thread.
First, air doesn't like to bend, so the 90* bend is like adding several hundred, if not thousand feet, of straight pipe. This is just basic fluid dynamics. It is also one of the first things you learn when porting cylinder heads.

The hose ID size is inconsequential at this point. You chose a 1/2 barb, so you have a 1/2 ID hose plumed in. That is all well and good.

The fitting you chose is the restriction, Most 1/4 NPT fittings have a .312 or 5/16 ID.

I do not have the CFM rating for that cross section, but it is doubtful it will have much effect on the block venting you are trying to do.

 

[LandSpeed-DSM]

Ok so if anyone has read the starting post it states "has any of you done this?" I dont need a history lesson wiseman, you havent given any solutions from your own trial and errors. If a baffle is needed show me one, show me a solution, if not dont talk. This applies to landspeed aswell, you have told me nothing of value.

Someone that can pour concrete evidence on this will be valued, if your gonna sit there an "think" you got it figured out, your life may be full of surprises.

At this stage, why would I take the time to help you? Dale appears to be more charitable (and patient) than myself. You should listen to him. This appears to be alien territory to you, so try some humility.

No one can relate to you experience/data that will pertain exactly to your setup, by the way. Everyone's setup, even when comprised of identical parts will have different requirements and results.

I've never blown a dipstick out, even when I had a stock routed PCV to the manifold and a simple filter on the VC breather and boost in the upper 30s.. yet on this same motor I insisted on a more adequate system for evacuating the Head and Block. Admittedly more for assisting oil return from the head and turbo, but that's another thing to point out.. what I am using the system for may well be to aid/achieve a different outcome.

PS - That tiny ID is not doing you any favors and if you have any sort of vacuum on the other end it may well pull a good deal of oil being slung near it out of the crank case instead of just blow-by. It may be "dry" during normal operation, but you are introducing a localized low pressure zone.