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putting back together after 4 yrs sitting

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HALO-GST

Probationary Member
22
0
Sep 13, 2011
Indianapolis, Indiana
So back in 2006 i bought a 1996 GS-T from a salvage auction and i got it running. It wasnt too much work just replacing the cam gears and hood everything else seemed in good condition, which made me thing why it was at a salvage auction, anyways I got her running and drove for several months. One day driving at the speed limit on the highway i heard the engine rapping and start to stutter i made it all the way home but turns out the valves bent. I dont know how but then when I took the head off one of the pistons was shredded. My father and I began to rebuild with a new piston and all new valves but I noticed the intake had black build up inside and its very hard like its a layer. So I figure it needs to be polished off or maybe hot tanked? Does anyone know maybe the best way to remove the carbon build up? Also the engine after it was put together was left on the engine stand since 2007, should there be any precautions i should take before I go just dropping the engine back in the cars engine bay? Im thinking replacing all the gaskets for the turbo and lines as well but are there any particular inspections I should perform on the turbo? One last question, does removing the honeycomb filament in the intake where the MAF is make the engine idle slightly erraticly?
 
If you don't have experience doing it, I would take the head to a machine shop and have them clean it for you. Any carved marks that you leave in the combustion chamber, piston head or the head itself, will be subject to hot spots and could potentially lead to engine failure.

If the engine has been setting that long, it would be good to re-oil/lube it, prep it, gaskets shouldn't be a huge issue as far as the hard gaskets (Intake, Exhaust, Head) but I'd certainly check them out if it were on my engine stand for that long.

Turbo can simply be rotated and have some oil added into the cartridge. Lubricate the cartridge through the feed hole, turn it a few times, check for shaft play, and clean it up. If it all checks out you should be good to roll.

Lastly, removing the honeycombs from the MAF can and will effect a few things such as intake readings, compensation, and overall airflow. Normally there is no negative to this, but I much rather leave them intact. You have more than enough options out there to increase airflow into the engine opposed to hacking the MAF.
 
Thanks alot for ## input. Someone else recommended using the intake or carb cleaner spray and that itll break it down and clean it out as well? Just to avoid doing alot of extra work that may not be necessary...
 
I would suggest replacing the water pump while the engine is out. I had my engine out of the car for over a year and after putting everything back together and putting the engine back in the car I filled all the fluids and water started leaking out around the pump shaft and weep holes. The pump was fine before I pulled the engine out it spun freely and didn't have any shaft play but I think the seals dried out from sitting. Its much easier to do it with the engine out then to have to remove your timing belt and do it with the engine in the car. I also had two coolant hoses break in the first 10 miles so check all the hoses or just replace them.
 
Well the water pump is new, and I havent put any fluids in the engine since the rebuild. I will definetly check the hoses and lines.
 
So I finally got the engine mounted and started it was rough at first but then after awhile it smoothed out. One issue though theres white smoke that comes out the exhaust at idle or low/no boost driving (light driving) the smoke makes me teary eyed. the check engine light isnt on so I dont know that an O2 sensor is out or could it be the turbo leaking oil? could it be running lean somehow?
 
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White smoke is usually coolant related, Does it smoke all the time or when you first start up? That could be from sitting so long...which usually would have to do with valve stem seals, but since you have rebuilt it...Over filling your engine with oil could cause it also. You could smell the smoke to be sure..You also could pressure test the cooling system to find any leaks. Hope this helps you out a bit,
 
I know my dad put some oil in the cylinder chamber to help start the engine. I let the engine idel until fully warmed up then drove for a few miles to see if it went away. It seemed like it went away momentarily then came back, it sometimes goes away when i rev it. It doesnt smoke at start up though.
 
Im not 100% sure, the head was taken to a machine shop because after i got it working when i first bought it, one of the pistons broke and bent some valves so we got the whole set up reworked but if it was the seals wouldnt it smoke all the time?
 
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maybe have the injectors cleaned or get some other ones, I have had many occasions where injectors have sat with a little fuel in them and they gum up and barely spray.
 
I dont think the injectors are causing the smoke, I dont have any power loss issues at higher RPM's or but i see ### u mean if im running lean maybe, im checkin the 02 sensors and puttin 93 octane with the GUMOUT cleaner in the tank see if it turns out. Another thing it seems to be doing is the idle sometimes stays @2k RPM im thinking of tryin to clean out the TB cause I've already replaced the IACV before the rebuild. Ive also checked the vacuum lines as well ...

ok so now im back at zero, i drove the engine with a scanner on to see some of the parameters checkin the sensors and what not, the front 02 sensor is erratic so i know it doesnt work then i noticed when i was doin some pulls that at 5k it made a weird notice and heard some rattling. turns out the timing belt tensioner weakens at that point and jacked up the timing, so all the valves bent and one of the rocker arms broke.....:-(.......i read somewhere about using a non-turbo head valves and rockers but i cant find it.....can someone refresh my memory?
 
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