Pulling/reinstalling engine and tranny in a 2g

[steel_3d]

I just pulled my engine last weekend and it was more of a pain that I hoped/read about. I used a hoist, pulled it through the top. I couldn't fit the tranny and engine with pulleys though the frame without removing the end cap off the tranny and maneuvering really careful not to break parts inside. The crank pulley and alternator pulley still got nicked a bit. The AC compressor pulley was rubbing too.

I have a 6-bolt swap in a 97 awd, although that shouldn't make a difference.

I didn't take off the driver's side motor mount, but that wasn't the biggest problem, as I said it was the pulleys that didn't wanna clear.

Is there a way to tilt/rotate the engine to make it clear that I missed??

I'd like to put the whole assembly in as one piece again, preferably with the pulleys on, as I hate working between the frame and pulleys, knuckes bleeding by the end.

This really pisses me off because it seems like the whole thing was meant to be pulled/installed as a unit, since 3 of the mounts are on the tranny. I don't even know how I'd pull/reinstall the engine with the tranny in place. There's definitely no room with the pulleys in place, can't even believe taking those off would leave room to clear the input shaft. I was thinking of maybe installing the engine with the one mount and supporting it on a jack, then installing the tranny from below.

PS: anyone know how heavy a bare block is? Can it be handled by one or two people, in case I need to take it to the machine shop?

Thanks

 

[wolf20043]

You can buy or rent a balancing bar for the hoist. It has a chain on each end to attach to the motor, and a knob you turn to tilt right or left. If you lower the tranny end , the end cap will clear the frame, and give you room to lower the motor into place.
Mike

 

[steel_3d]

In that case it has to go in near vertical, right? I know tilting it a bit by hand didn't help cause it just brought the pulleys closer to the frame.

Good call though, I'll give that a shot. Any other ideas?

 

[steve-o_95_GST]

What I do is put a chain on either the bracket on the exhaust manifold or the motor mound on that side and put the other side on the bracket on the intake manifold or one of the transmission bolts. Then I put the chain on an engine hoist (cherry picker) and the motor tilts itself as pressure is applied from the hoist and if it needs a bit of help just pick up on the timing belt side and it will tilt. Then bring it slowly out of the engine bay making sure you have disconnected everything. There is no need to dismantle anything except for I find it eaiser to remove the rear roll-stop bracket from the engine. Ive done this enought times to get it down to a science and I got the entire motor out of my gst this way in under 3 hrs.

-Steve

 

[steel_3d]

Well, Steve, that's how I had it hooked up and if I tilted the thing it would just bring the pulleys closer to the frame, and the tranny end cap would get closer too. Simple geometry - if you tilt a square... Maybe fwd is slightly different and leaves a bit more room?

 

[sadsm]

Thats the way I hooked it up also, and I had the same problems of the pulleys on the side.

 

[luvmygst]

I take the pullys off and leave the trans in the car. THis seems musch easier to me. when you put it back together you just have to hook up the motor and not mess with the trans.(just be sure to loosen all the trans mounts so it can move)

Just my .02

 

[steel_3d]

Yeah I know it would clear with the pulleys off, I'd just like to have the belts on and not mess with it afterwards. But maybe I can't have everything

 

[steve-o_95_GST]

I pulled motors from a fwd and an awd like that and i didnt remove anything except for the rear roll stop bracket and the ac from the engine.