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Project 12's for less than $1500..we'll see

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fwdeclipse said:
No I have heard of the goodwill guys.Thats a cool story Im just sayin not everyone can be project goodwill.Did you say the OP has been close?He ran a 15.0.


No i was refering to the thread starter. Unless i missed something and he's gone 12's now. Not not everyone can be goodwill but a determined individual with a good running car can do it.


Alphamale it's alittle harder to do for so little with a fwd.
 
90blacktsiawd said:
No i was refering to the thread starter. Unless i missed something and he's gone 12's now. Not not everyone can be goodwill but a determined individual with a good running car can do it.


Alphamale it's alittle harder to do for so little with a fwd.


No kidding, but this guy has an AWD... :rolleyes:
 
Went 12.8 @ 108 in a full weight 91 AWD many years ago.

Mods.
Homemade upper IC pipe made from leftovers.
Modded Stock BOV
Hacked 1G MAS
No exhaust
C-16
Wire-tie boost control
2G fuel injectors


Cost.. just the gas.

Running 12's in a 1G AWD is pretty easy.
 
HighPsi91 said:
Went 12.8 @ 108 in a full weight 91 AWD many years ago.

Mods.
Homemade upper IC pipe made from leftovers.
Modded Stock BOV
Hacked 1G MAS
No exhaust
C-16
Wire-tie boost control
2G fuel injectors


Cost.. just the gas.

Running 12's in a 1G AWD is pretty easy.

I can pretty much gaurantee if you came to utah with the same car you would not run a 12.
 
Altitude doesnt have that big of an effect on turbo cars. I live at 4200ft now and have ran 2 of my cars here at a 5000+ft track and back at near sea level tracks. One was my race car and the other my 2005 Subaru Legacy GT. Both cars ran the same ET's and MPH at both altitudes.

The 12.8 car I mentioned above probably would have been a bit slower at higher altitude mainly due to the fact the turbo was way out of its efficient map. In this case it would have been effected a bit more. I seriously doubt a half second difference though.

Spool and off boost performance is effected on a turbo car but power under boost really isnt effected that much.. since the turbo creates its own atmosphere.
 
hey everybody, ive been working on the car and recently loaned a wideband from a friend and got the 550's, so ill be tuning it out here within the next week and shoot for 11:1 af ratio's, then try to go back to the track at 20lbs of boost or so, depending on if i can keep knock down with the sidemount, hoping for 13's this time out, and sub 2.0 60s but we'll see what happens
 
Drop down pipe, pull boost sourece hose, add c16 and free datatloging, injectors and afc

There you go..cheap and easy :)
 
Quest4Boost said:
Don't break my wideband. ;p

hey, whats up man, i didnt know you were on here, and dont worry, your wideband is safe, i wont break it:thumb: i got the o2 sensors swapped...getting the stock one out was fun, but i got it after a bit of convincing:D
 
BrockLee GS-T said:
hey, whats up man, i didnt know you were on here, and dont worry, your wideband is safe, i wont break it:thumb: i got the o2 sensors swapped...getting the stock one out was fun, but i got it after a bit of convincing:D
Very bad idea to put the wideband in the stock o2 position. Way to hot and you will break his wideband.
 
hey everyone, i was just letting you guys know whats been going on, yesterday i tuned the new 550's out to a 11:1 af and with the new ignition and wires it ran great, absolutly smooth as could be, but i came across another problem..... what did i do now.....

after some hard runs to verify final tuning a/f's, the dummy oil light came on, so i pull over to the nearest gas station to see what was up, and found that the oil was coming out from around the oil filter housing with a serious stream....and everything from the front of the bumper to the door was covered in oil....luckily when i stopped oil was still pouring out, which means to me i didnt run her dry, so i was about 1/4 mile from my house, and filled her back up with oil and got home, and she dumped all her oil again, super, giant oil spot... its night now so im not sure what happened to the oil filter housing...but it was seriously leaking, so im thinking it cracked or something else catastropic like that, i dont really know what else it could be, because the oil pressure before the blow out has always been lower, never high by any means, so i guess tomorrow ill try to clean it up and see what damage i did, but for what its worth it was running very strong for the 13psi i tuned it on.....gotta love dsms.... running hard or hardly running
 
did you check to make sure your oil filter was on tightly? Often times they back off on your guy's oil housings (hint, get a %$#@ING 90 oil housing and be done with it. )
 
Alot of the time its not the filter backing off, but the stud that the filter threasds on to. Same thing happened to my 97. I would see a couple dots of oil underneath and I would tighter the oil filter and it would temporarily stop leaking. Then the oil light came on and I lost just about all my oil. I shut it off in time to have no damage but I had a 3qt puddle under the car. Take the filter off and I bet you notice that stud backing out. You'll have to buy an odd sized deep socket to fix it.
 
good news, the oil filter was backed off, but it was because the rubber o ring was jacked, and i still dont know how that happened, because i always oil them before i put them on but thats what happened, it held until the filter backed off then the flood gates opened, but all is well now with that, but i have a new problem thats really stumping me....

I have sufficent oil pressure readings from my stock gauge, and my oil is full, but my oil light will not go off, it stays off when i first start the car for a good 20-30 seconds, then stays on, but pressure is fine, whats going on?> im thinking bad sensor, unless the pressure can be different at oppisite ends of the oil filter housing, but im dying to go take it to the track today, just dont know if its good to drive, but everything points to its fine, so im stumped, gotta love dsms
 
alright, here we are, put lucas oil stablizer in, light goes away, pressure is great, so it was track time

started the day off with a pass on 10 psi and ran a 14.7, then passed a 14.1, turned the boost up to 15psi, and ran a 13.705 @ 98.7, with a 60' of 2.023, ran into so complications and never got a good 20lb boost run, but my old junkyard tires are definatly going to half to go, because i should be sub 2.0 60ft times, and with a little driving and 5-8 more lbs of boost i should be getting close to some 12's, but i think i may hang it up for the winter and work on it till spring season comes back in, but the projects no longer a dream, shes moving on so thanks for all that have helped!

btw, total investment..

free--strip car to nothing but a seat and steering wheel
300 for car
10 for battery(pro-rated)
20 for switches/inline fuses/wiring/aluminum panel
50 walbro 190
10 ebay boost controller
50 axles
100---safc
70---550's
60---ignition
20---weld open exhaust elbow


690$---current total
 
Boosted98gsx said:
DSMlink and you are in the win!

umm....i dont think so

DSMlink is nice, dont get me wrong, but this build is purely junkyard racer, how fast for how cheap, and theres no way im spending as much for dsmlink as ive spent on my car and all my mods combined, i can get a lot more done with buying an ebay fmic, maxing out my turbo, and running a 75 shot of nitrous, and at the end of the day still have spent less than dsmlink
 
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i accually had my own project 12's a while back LOL, easily achieved i spent quite a bit more money then you did, i rebuilt my engine though, good luck :thumb: project 11's anybody? LOL
 
well, i havent posted in a while, but the cars been running really strong....till tonight. i was taking a joy ride with the girlfriend and got into first then gave it a hard 1-2 and i swear a heard a click below me, cant be positive caus the cars really loud, but i heard something somewhere down there and then the car was free rolling. I coasted into the nearest neighborhood and pulled it to the side to evaluate it but couldnt find anything obviously broke. No fluids on the ground, no broken drive shafts. i can shift to different gears but nothing, sounds like transmission is spinning, but nothing, car wont move in any gear. So i guess my question is do you guys think its somewhere in the transfer case? or possibly the transmission? i dont think the rear end going out would keep the front wheels from spinning seperatly? BTW, i think my rear vc was bad, but not positive on that. Let me know what you guys think so i can get onto fixing it, thanks.
 
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