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Project 12's for less than $1500..we'll see

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sorry for the lack of recent posting, so ive completly gutted the interior to a seat/steering wheel/dash and wired and fused the hardwire switch and starter, found an axle for 25$ and grabbed an extra because i grabbed them cheap, it runs and drives fine, launches well, but i cant get it into boost, and i know the turbo isnt ceized up because it spins freely. ive had a hard time getting a boost leak test done though because the rubber ring that goes around the turbo inlet is missing and i cant get my tester to seal on that, the only other thing is the wastegate could be done, but im almost positive a thourough leak test will make the world, because i seriously doubt that the intake is anywhere near leak free. i found a hood for free locally and have repaired the front bumper so cosmetically it should look pretty straight.

Now heres the question....i have found a logger and keydiver stage 3 for 680cc's locally for $100 for both. problem is that i am having a tough time finding 680cc's, would the compensation be close enough to run 650cc's or would that just be a bad idea??? im new to tuning and dont know a lot about fuel maps so i dont really know if this would be ok or not.
 
Boosted98gsx said:
if all else fails, drop the CHRA and take the turbine housing off to check it out. You might need a new one if it's too bady cracked. But your problem is almost certainly boost leaks.

so i pulled the intake off just a few mins. ago and leak tested it.....well, alls to say is somehow it held 20lbs...good news, but bad news.....still not boosting, turbo spins freely...pulls 20lbs vaccume at idle, get on the gas vaccume goes to 0 just like my 97gst does, but it stops right there...whats going on??? only think i can think of is wastegate...could a manifold or exhaust housing leak make it this bad, it doesnt even pretend to go to 1, it hits zero and freezes.....if anybody has any other thoughts than wastegate let me know, thanks
 
BrockLee GS-T said:
so i pulled the intake off just a few mins. ago and leak tested it.....well, alls to say is somehow it held 20lbs...good news, but bad news.....still not boosting, turbo spins freely...pulls 20lbs vaccume at idle, get on the gas vaccume goes to 0 just like my 97gst does, but it stops right there...whats going on??? only think i can think of is wastegate...could a manifold or exhaust housing leak make it this bad, it doesnt even pretend to go to 1, it hits zero and freezes.....if anybody has any other thoughts than wastegate let me know, thanks

Sounds like the wastegate is blowing open, make sure its still connected the the actuator arm.
 
yup, im almost positive its the wastegate actuator, didnt notice until i removed it.....
 

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DSMcamaro said:
I'm trying the same thing only with my daily driver.
http://students.uwsp.edu/peler141/web_page/fwd_page.htm
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=237670
I doubt i have 1500 worth of performance mods, but i never did add it up.


i lowered it to 1000 dollars, and the 300$ pricetag for the car is taken away from that, so basically im trying to do it for 700$, but props to the 60's, nice numbers


Well i pulled the actuator off of my 14b i had laying around and threw that on...and i have boost!! its late and dark right now, so i cant really do any more work on the car, but now all i need to do is turn the boost up and start logging for bad things, this friday unless something bad happens to the car, we'll get a run on the track and see what it does
 
BrockLee GS-T said:
problem is that i am having a tough time finding 680cc's, would the compensation be close enough to run 650cc's or would that just be a bad idea???


The x80 injectors always seem to flow like x50 injectors, so odds are it will work out to be the same thing. Even if they flow like 680s, it would be close enough, and in the ruch (safe) direction.
 
well, went down to the track tonight and was a little dissapointed, but ran a 15.1xx on a 2.2 60, later that night i knocked a 2.0 60' but ran worse

so i would be a little bummed but the car has a LOT left in it...I was getting a NASTY sputter in second and third anywhere above 4500rpms and the car bogged and stopped accelerating. i ran a 15.7xx short shifting every gear at 4500! alright, so heres what i did find out..

first 2 runs, 91 octane, getting 15 counts of knock, 104 octane, 3 counts peak, most the time 0-1 count, no problem there. 14lbs of boost...110% duty cycle...seems odd to me, seems really high, smic wasnt heat soaking at all tonight, and the car has new plugs, but what im guessing is that my problem lies somewhere in the ignition, with the motocraft cop setup that the car has on it. Second, although i tested it well before tonight, i could have a boost leak.

i tested pulling the boost down to 10lbs, but still get the nasty sputtering backfires....so my first plan of action is to pull the intake and boost leak test it and see if i sprung a nasty leak, and if that doesnt work try to track down a stock ignition system for it, now with the baseline, nowhere to go but lower
 
hey everyone, the forums have been dead for the past day or two, so i figured id update everyone one what ive been up to with project 12's

i have installed a apexi safc on the car and have been trying to diagnose the stuttering problem, so i gapped the plugs smaller and went out for another pass here and came up with the same thing...stuttering above 4k.

heres where i am starting to lean towards it could be the fuel map running it filthy rich...i took it out the next day, which was very cold, probably 45', and the car ran sick fast, all the way to 7k, with no stuttering...hmmm...kinda odd to me, if the ignition was bad, i would imagine it would be bad regaurdless of weather, but im thinking that possibly the cold weather leaned out the air fuel mixture and got it closer to stoich??? i borrowed a logger from a freind but for some freak reason, we couldnt get it to read project 12's, we threw it on my 90 and it worked fine, so im looking for another logger right now so i can try to read some fuel trims and 02 readings, btw, anybody who is experienced at street tuning, feel free to come help me, ill buy you a case, because im pretty much starting from scratch and tuning from dsmtuners.forums, so experience is very much appreciated.

so at this point im going to try to tune the fuel to be happy, then if im still having ignition problems, ill go to my ignition and work on that, but i think i could possibly just be running pig rich?

any thoughts are welcome, thanks for the space



total list of parts and prices
10 boost controller
5 boost gauge pod
100 apexi safc
300 for car
10 for battery(pro-rated)
20 for switches/inline fuses/wiring/aluminum panel
30 for oil/restore/lucas
50 walbro 190
50 axles
60 550's
total
$635

left to do.....
xs power fmic kit on ebay now selling for 205 shipped
tune

so predicted final price should be around $840, and that should carry me into a good 325 hp with my turbo, ic and fuel
at this point i just really really need to learn how to tune
 
The fact that in the colder weather it didn't stutter would lead me to believe your running rich. Colder air is denser air so at the same tune/boost level you'd be flowing more air in colder weather hence it wouldn't be breaking up like it did in the warmer weather.
 
I rembered my 1g would sputter if i floored but accelrated fine if i eased on to the peddle the it would cut out when i got down to the floor again.... My ecu was muxed up bought a new one and it ran like a champ.

is this car AWD or fwd?
 
DSMcamaro said:
I'm trying the same thing only with my daily driver.
http://students.uwsp.edu/peler141/web_page/fwd_page.htm


That is one of the nicer, "sleeker" 1Gs I have seen in a while. Maybe it's just a great shot. A little less wheel gap and it will look quite pristine. I wonder what you have the KYB AGXs set at. I am of course refering to the photo below:





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90blacktsiawd said:
The fact that in the colder weather it didn't stutter would lead me to believe your running rich. Colder air is denser air so at the same tune/boost level you'd be flowing more air in colder weather hence it wouldn't be breaking up like it did in the warmer weather.

yeah, thats what i said, i may have worded it oddly but pretty much what im thinking is going on
 
92_1g said:
I rembered my 1g would sputter if i floored but accelrated fine if i eased on to the peddle the it would cut out when i got down to the floor again.... My ecu was muxed up bought a new one and it ran like a champ.

is this car AWD or fwd?


the car is an awd, i havent checked the ecu yet, but wouldnt be a bad idea to check
 
cb3016 said:
ya its a 1g check the caps on them, if its mucked then replace it

i guess this is my next question, i have a 90 gsx ecu laying around, i know theres something that changed with 90 to 91-94 ecu's...but for the life of me i cant find any forums telling me if i can use the 90 to simply test the current ecu....im assuming it will still run, but i dont want to mess anything up either, so if anybody knows the limitations of running a 90 ecu on it or how to fix it to where i can for simple testing purposes let me know, thanks
 
BrockLee GS-T said:
i guess this is my next question, i have a 90 gsx ecu laying around, i know theres something that changed with 90 to 91-94 ecu's...but for the life of me i cant find any forums telling me if i can use the 90 to simply test the current ecu....im assuming it will still run, but i dont want to mess anything up either, so if anybody knows the limitations of running a 90 ecu on it or how to fix it to where i can for simple testing purposes let me know, thanks


go to here

www.dsmchips.com


anyways heres my setup and the quickest i got was 13.2

crushed bov free
rewired fuel pump $10
190lph pump $60 dsmtuners classified
safc $150 ebay
dejon intake with k and n $75 ebay
2.5" uicp and licp $50 jcwhitney mandrel bends and clamps and couplers
accel 8mm wires $20 ebay
ngk br7es plugs $10 checkers
homemade mbc $8 home dept
act clutch 2100 $350 + 50 for flywheel resurface dsmotorsport
boost gauge $50 local ricer store
logger setup $50 classifieds
removed balance shaft $5 for tap and dye
removed all spare wieght free
manual rack from 1g 1.8 $50 junk yard
removed powersteering free
removed ac free
removed cruise control free
removed emissions free
relocated battery lower $15 for steel
bfg drag radials 225/50/15 $210 tire rack

1,163 bucks

but this is with a crappy 2.1 60ft

i cut a 1.9 with the radials but broke an axle, so it is possible to get into the 12's for just about a grand.
 
thats to put a 91+ in a 90, im trying to put a 90 in a 91+, all the same though it's going to be easier to just try a freinds to test... thanks for the links though guys
 
I managed to run 13.2 1/4 mile when i had my 92 awd talon basicly stock.

Cut out intake box
Wires MBC 15PSI
Open turbo with 3"s of pipe that went straight to the ground
Race Gas Stock Stock feul system
Stock 14b
Gutted rear interior

Thats less than 250 dollars worth of mods on a stock clutch. Then i blew it up and now i have a some things lying around waiting for the next one when ever that is.
 
It just seems unrealistic to me that you can run 12s with such little money.More power to you if you pull it off.I know its probably harder up here cause the elevation is like 5000ft.So at sea level or closer to it you may have a better shot.
 
No I have heard of the goodwill guys.Thats a cool story Im just sayin not everyone can be project goodwill.Did you say the OP has been close?He ran a 15.0.
 
This thread is a joke.

stock 1g with very minimal mods and some weight removal, stock engine/head/cams/turbo with good clutch, tires, pump and MBC can get you 12's easily.

Want video proof?
 
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