Problems after installing PR FMIC

[ludenaa]

Ok fellas, I just finished installing the PR FMIC on my '95 Eagle Talon Tsi FWD and I must say what I PITA this whole process from beggining to end has been.
With that being said, as I apprarently thought I was finally finished I took the vehicle out for a spin, first gear pulled so hard however, the BOV went off as I was stepping on the throttle which I thought was unusual and the vehicle bogged. I drove a couple of blocks down on 1st gear as the vehicle felt like it was being deprived of fuel until it died on my in the middle of the road. I managed to start it right up and drove back to my home at 5 mph. I noticed that the coupler that goes from the J pipe with not nipple to the turbo itself was at a 90 degree angle, presumming not air to flow through. I also noticed that the coupler near the IC came loose and off track as well. At this point I decied to cut down the J pipe at the bottom of the "J" to allow more clearance between the turbo and the frame of the vehicle to ultimately allow the coupler to have more room to breath, it worked out perfectly and I managed to get a a nice bent off the coupler connecting the J pipe and turbo. I took it out for a spin and the exact same thing happen going on first gear the BOV unexpectedly went off, lost power and vehicle died once again as previous scenerio. I went home jacked at car up for the 30th time and noticed another couper which came loose. I have reconnected it and decided not to take it out for a spin until I figure out what's going on here. I can possibly think of a few things I'm doing wrong however, after reading many posts here I might have pin pointed it. I have the BOV top nipple (bigger nipple) connected to the intake manifold and the other bigger end connected to the dump tube from the intake. What am I missing here? I never used the "T" shape connecter which was provided in the box and not sure if that's even required as I am runnig the STOCK 1995 Eagle Talon Turbo. I believe is also not mandatory with a STOCK turbo to have a nipled coming out the J pipe, What am I doing wrong? any advised will be greatly appreciated as I need to get thie vehicle out on the wrong. I must also add that the valves tap like crazy after this install.
I apologize for the essay

 

[92AWDHX40]

Ok i couldnt read all that, too much so whats the specific problem do you have pics of your issues.
Too much to take in.

 

[spawn87]

its kinda hard to tell with out pics... if your couplers come loose its cause your not putting them on right or your kit doesnt have liped ends to keep coupler on.

i dont understand how you got your bov hooked up (what kind is it) only one vac line needed and it sounds like you hooked it up right, and if its recir back to intake your also right.

best thing to do in this senario is run a boost leak check to see where the air is been lost. till your pipes are air tight cant really diagnose problem.

 

[Dert]

Connect the top bigger port of bov to vac line to intake, the lower one leave open or connect to a boost source. Make sure you keep it recirculated into the air intake. If couplers keep blowing off try spraying hairspray on the pipe then put couplers on.


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[ludenaa]

To ALL i'm not on my home computer to send pics, but if you email me at [email protected] I can email you all pictures from my phone. thanks

Ok i couldnt read all that, too much so whats the specific problem do you have pics of your issues.
Too much to take in.

problem is that vehicle has no power when i take it out on the road and also question if I need a nipple on the J pipe as I am running a stock turbo.

its kinda hard to tell with out pics... if your couplers come loose its cause your not putting them on right or your kit doesnt have liped ends to keep coupler on.

i dont understand how you got your bov hooked up (what kind is it) only one vac line needed and it sounds like you hooked it up right, and if its recir back to intake your also right.

best thing to do in this senario is run a boost leak check to see where the air is been lost. till your pipes are air tight cant really diagnose problem.

The couplers do have lips and I tight them as tight as I possibly can without busting the clamps. The BOV is the one that came with the PR kit, the greddy type S sytle, I hooked the big nipple to the intake manifold that's it.

Connect the top bigger port of bov to vac line to intake, the lower one leave open or connect to a boost source. Make sure you keep it recirculated into the air intake. If couplers keep blowing off try spraying hairspray on the pipe then put couplers on.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

what do you mean by "keep it recirculated into the air intake"?

 

[92AWDHX40]

Do a boost leak test regardless of how tight they are.

 

[ludenaa]

Do a boost leak test regardless of how tight they are.

any suggestions why the car dies on me?

 

[DSMTyson]

1. Do you have a vacuum line on the top nipple of the BOV?

2. Why haven't you done a boost leak test?

3. I don't understand how your bov is going off in the middle of a pull. Maybe adjust it to a harder setting?

 

[92AWDHX40]

Do a boost leak test.

 

[Gysgt Guy]

Like everyone else said...you shouldn't have driven it without doing a BLT anyways. And you can't blame the kit for you not tightening down the clamps enough. Tighten them till one does bust. Then you'll know how tight they actually CAN go.

 

[H4G64T]

It's a boost leak.

Second, I have installed this kit on 3 different 2Gs, not once did I need to trim any coupler...so wtf?

 

[ludenaa]

1. Do you have a vacuum line on the top nipple of the BOV?

2. Why haven't you done a boost leak test?

3. I don't understand how your bov is going off in the middle of a pull. Maybe adjust it to a harder setting?

1. top nipple is connected to intake manifold

2. I am in the middle of researching how to do that

3. I have no clue either, it randomly goes off in the middle of a pull and it is adjusted at a pretty hard setting, i tighten it with my fingers, should I tighten it with a wrench?

Like everyone else said...you shouldn't have driven it without doing a BLT anyways. And you can't blame the kit for you not tightening down the clamps enough. Tighten them till one does bust. Then you'll know how tight they actually CAN go.

I have not blamed the kit at any point. I will go over every single one and tighten them as far as they go.

It's a boost leak.

Second, I have installed this kit on 3 different 2Gs, not once did I need to trim any coupler...so wtf?

I cut down the J pipe not the coupler itself. There wasn't enought clearance between the J pipe and turbo outlet leaving the coupler at a 90 degree angle blocking air flow.

 

[H4G64T]

I cut down the J pipe not the coupler itself. There wasn't enought clearance between the J pipe and turbo outlet leaving the coupler at a 90 degree angle blocking air flow.

That still doesn't make sense to me, if you are using the J-pipe the kit came with you are on a 14b or 16G turbo, both of which gave me plenty of clearance, unless you mixed up multiple couplers in different locations this simply cannot be, please provide pictures of your install.

 

[GsXdSmKingGsX]

Holy hellfire.. Spacebar and the "return" key do wonders..

 

[ludenaa]

That still doesn't make sense to me, if you are using the J-pipe the kit came with you are on a 14b or 16G turbo, both of which gave me plenty of clearance, unless you mixed up multiple couplers in different locations this simply cannot be, please provide pictures of your install.

I will show you pictures when I get to my personal computer, you will see that there isn't enough clearance between the J pipe and frame of the vehicle. This installation was done on a '95 Talon not an Eclipse which installation is much smoother.

 

[H4G64T]

I will show you pictures when I get to my personal computer, you will see that there isn't enough clearance between the J pipe and frame of the vehicle. This installation was done on a '95 Talon not an Eclipse which installation is much smoother.

The engine bays are identical.

 

[ludenaa]

The engine bays are identical.

I will show you pics shortly.

The engine bays are identical.

not the greatest pics but you are looking at a pic of the J pipe in between the radiator and exhaust manifold. This J pipe does not have a niple. And it goes over the fram of the vehicle.

bov, bigger nipple going to intake manifold and dump tube and nothing else.

 

[Dert]

You mixed couplers up somewhere, what do you have connected to the bottom of the jpipe? should be a straight cupler with the "L"pipe that has a boost source nipple on it, to another "L" pipe, to the IC, then a smaller pipe out of the IC with a 45* to the Upper pipe with bov flange, the long slightly curved coupler to the throttle body elbow. Post some pics.

 

[ludenaa]

At this point i'm retightening all couplers, I hope this solves the problem.

 

[H4G64T]

There is no J-pipe in those pictures. Here is a picture with a J-pipe:

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You can see the J portion of the pipe bolted to the compressor outlet and going down into the engine bay.

 

[ludenaa]

You mixed couplers up somewhere, what do you have connected to the bottom of the jpipe? should be a straight cupler with the "L"pipe that has a boost source nipple on it, to another "L" pipe, to the IC, then a smaller pipe out of the IC with a 45* to the Upper pipe with bov flange, the long slightly curved coupler to the throttle body elbow. Post some pics.

Not my pictures but this is the L pipe i used to connect to my stock turbo, the one with NO niple. The very bottom pipe in the picture

There is no J-pipe in those pictures. Here is a picture with a J-pipe:

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You can see the J portion of the pipe bolted to the compressor outlet and going down into the engine bay.

sorry it's not the J pipe, I have mistakenly been calling it "J" pipe all along, i guess it's the "L" pipe the one that connects from the bottom to the stock turbo.

 

[Dert]

That J-pipe in the picture is for 14B/16G turbo. Look at the pic posted above, the silver pipe under the rad pipe on top of the turbo is the J-pipe, if you are running stock turbo you would have had to state when you orderd it that you are using stock turbo to get the correct pipe to connect. The Jpipe does not have a nipple on it, the L pipe does.

 

[H4G64T]

Alright, that explains your fitment issues.

 

[ludenaa]

That J-pipe in the picture is for 14B/16G turbo. Look at the pic posted above, the silver pipe under the rad pipe on top of the turbo is the J-pipe, if you are running stock turbo you would have had to state when you orderd it that you are using stock turbo to get the correct pipe to connect. The Jpipe does not have a nipple on it, the L pipe does.

OK, when I spoke to Tim I told him I was running a stock turbo, he said he would send me both for my '95 talon, I'm so confused at this point am I supposed to use the L pipe with the niple or without with my stock turbo?

 

[H4G64T]

The kit comes with a pipe for stock turbos that will require a U-coupler to work (sold separately) it should not have a nipple on it, as the T25 compressor housing has a nipple.