Problem with my 2G when it hits 23lbs

[talonz27]

so when i drive my car around and do a pull in 1st or 2nd its fine, when i do a pull in 3rd and hit 23lbs it feels like it looses all power almost like i just took my foot off the gas pedal and i hear my bov open. Also If im driving and give it half throttle and let the boost build up as soon as it hits around 15lbs my bov starts opening but if i give it full throttle it doesnt mess up till it hits the 23lbs then looses everything.
I am running a SBR-G50 and the bov i am using is a greddy knock off. i also had a 1g bov and it did the same thing.
I have done a boost leak test to 20lbs and i had 1 leak at the bov and i have fixed it and still have the problem.
thanks for any help you guys can give me....

 

[talonz27]

ive got my money that its pulling timing. the similar thing happened to my friend with a chip when he put on a bigger turbo, except he went from 16g to a PTE 60-1. good luck in finding out what it is tho.

did he happen to have a 1g CAS on a 7bolt 2g?

 

[Loewen21]

Negative. The BOV should hold in boost at all times, until you shift. It should not be open under boost, no matter if it's recirculated or not.

To the OP - Do a boost leak check to 30psi. I'm not sure what BOV you're using, but if you're using a 1g, do the Dodgegarage mod to it. It will hold whatever you throw at it. Don't crush it. That's old school, and the wrong way to do it.

Edit: just saw this "and the bov i am using is a greddy knock off. " When you do your boost leak test, take off your recirc hose to make sure you're not bleeding pressure through the BOV.

Well he was saying something about it sounding like it was opened up so i was wondering. I know that it should stay closed, i run a non-recirculated set up myself.

 

[turboglenn]

ARRRRGGHHH... Fighting stock ECU's from stock management to SAFC to DSMLink always has a bunch of weird ass problems to go with it. Full stand Alone FTW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.."real "LINK", Haltech, Autronic (expensive for the amount of features) and even the dreaded AEM ( i could write a book on it's "issues" hahahh ) ... There's so many systems out there, that if you even have a near stock setup, the amount of extra power and miles per gallon that can be achieved makes the few hundred extra dollars over DSMlink, and any SAFC SO much more worth the dollar. Of course i dn't have a knock sensor, but then again i don't deal with "inj dead times" one map interfiering with another, being forced to keep a MAF meter even when running by MAP and being able to adjust cold start and warm up enrichment on start and restart enough to make 15* days running e-85 start like it was a factory car.. You can get aftermarket knock sensors ( even ones able to pull timing) for "real" aftermarket systems. Don't get me wrong the AEM plug n play is kinda cool, it has a lot of features, but IMHO it sucks for the person that's not a lab tech trying to find out how to make cyl#3 get the exact same AFR as Cyl # 2 on it's stroke in squintial mode ( even if it's only of by less than 1/10th of a ms) So I guess you know my advice..Get a real stand alone and forget about matching trims, dead times, false'ing EFI parts, and all that BS and get a decent low priced stand alone. They are so worth the investment, and can occomadate way more changes from fuel type to airflow and feed back than anything that's commercially available "for the DSM". You'll have trouble passing smog, and you will have to diagnose system errors yourself via laptop, but if you've got the brains to do it, nothing will extract more power and give you more control in places you didn't know existed on "other systems"

My main example ....DSMLink has one adjustment every 500 RPM... most stand alne s offer adjustments of 12 - 32 load points at the same 500 RPM intervals where you get ONE per 50 RPM increment on DSMLink... I"M not knocking DSMlink at all, but when you want total and perfect control you go full stand alone... any questions about it, PM me.

sorry if it strayed from your topic, but it's what came to mind when thnking about some one hving that issue and how i'm so glad to not have to deal with ish like that

 

[fwdeclipse]

That's just it, you don't know if you aren't knocking. You completely disregarded what I posted with the exception of the one thing you didn't like (Yea, it compensates for the larger injectors, however you have no idea what your timing maps are like). You NEED some sort of logging capability to make sure things are running correctly.

16psi on a T28 isn't exactly that far off from the stock ECU's capability for adjusting without the need for an A/F controller.

Everyone has indicated the same thing, and tried to explain you tune for timing on a 2g, not knock, because the sensor doesn't read knock correctly like a 1g.

You came here, you posted asking for help. Numerous people posted the exact same opinion, but you disregard it on the basis that you "think" everything is fine. We can't help if you aren't willing to listen.

Loss of power in 3rd gear @ 23psi. Sounds like timing being pulled to me(knock) or fuel cut(huge boost leak).

Hey bro I dont think you are understanding the situation. I have helped him with his car and trying to figure out the problem. The stock boost guage reads knock! So we know for 100% sure that the car is not knocking. To explain it best if feels like fuel cut but its not cause the chip is programmed to not get rid of it. We changed chips on it and that seemed to help for awhile but then it started doing it again. His motor is built and its a 7bolt and the engine builder put on a 1G cas does anyone think that could be a problem.