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2G Problem with "loose" steering

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sccrbrandon4788

10+ Year Contributor
179
3
Sep 14, 2008
Lexington, Kentucky
A few months ago I started noticing my car was driving differently. I've owned the car for about 11 years, so its pretty obvious when something is going bad. I've replaced a bad lower, straight, control arm due to a knock when going over a bump or when I hit the brakes. I recently started having some issues with my steering wheel not being centered when accelerating. This isn't "torque steer", since I don't feel the car ever produced enough power to cause such a thing, and I've never had this issue in the decade I've owned it. I had an alignment done a few weeks ago and they adjusted the toe from lowering the car, but the steering wheel still turns from 12 to 11 when accelerating. I just replaced the inner tie rods, a buddy had a set and mine weren't very sturdy at the joint. After getting it all back together tonight, even the slightest turn of the steering wheel made the wheels want to collapse in that direction.

I'm kinda at a loss and not sure what to look at next. I've checked all the ball joints for separation, all are firmly in their joints. The upper ball joints worry me a little because they spin very easily, but they don't move on their Y-axis, or make any noises. The only thing I can think of is that the rack's seals are shot and aren't holding any pressure, but I also don't know if that's even a real thing or just something I put in my head trying to find a solution. A new rack is a little pricey for me right now, so hoping there's something else I can check out, or if somebody else had this happen, what was the solution?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!
 
It was doing this after my alignment, the part where the wheel would turn during acceleration. I'd be going straight, but the wheel would be turned. When I let off the gas the wheel would go back to straight.

I'll probably be going back to have it checked, but I feel like its something more than the alignment. I know its not scientific, but I counted the rotations when removing the tie rod ends for each side and installed them the same way they came off.
 
Check the wheel bearings and bolts its most likely not these but it could small play before you get the noise, compression arm bj's and bush, also check your upper arms and shock mounts, any of those can cause movement in your wheels when accelerating, since you have swapped lca's thats not needed unless its a bad cheap part then i would worry about them, oem or moog is the only ones to trust in the US.

As stated already, check the steering rack for play aswell.

Use a pry bar to see what moves and what does not move,
 
Thanks for all the replies!

I took it back to the shop and they did the alignment again. It was out of wack, and the rear toe arm bushings are apparently seized and couldn't be moved. He also said it could be the uneven wear of my tires causing the wheel to be cocked on way when driving. After their adjustments, the steering feels a lot better and I don't feel so unsafe about driving it. I still have to figure out the rear toe arms, and really needs camber fixed due to lowering.

I'm sorry this turned into just needing another alignment, I figured since I had it done and it was still going on, it had to have been something else. Maybe the other guy didn't tighten it back up and something else happened, or maybe the inner tie rods made a big difference.

Thanks again!
 
how much are you lowered by and whats your readings like after your setup? got the spread sheet to post up?
 
I'm not sure what stock height is, but I'm probably close to 1.5" drop on Megan Racing EZ Street Coilovers.

I'll attach the alignment sheets from my visit. Front camber is definitely more dramatic in the front than the rear, but I also did the home depot rear camber kit using 5 or 6 washers and longer bolts.
 

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