Problem after problem etc etc....

[Foreverthuggin0417]

Hey, thanks ahead of time for all the help given.

First. I recently got the head re built and put new timing belt and all gaskets needed. Balance shaft belt as well is new. All timing marks are good and starts right up. Idles smooth and runs good besides the problems I'm going to explain to the best of my abilities.

1. After the install the car makes a low ticking noise kinda sounds right behind the head near the intake manifold.

2. My BOV is no where near as loud as it was before all the head work got done and I installed it.

3. When driving it sounds like the car is in high RPMs while I'm in low RPMs between 2-3. When I let off the gas to shift it sounds like the car is letting out air really fast. I really don't know how to explain it. It just doesn't sound like it did before.

4. Sometimes while driving my car stutters and doesn't want to go past 3-4 thousand RPMs. Like I'm hitting a brick wall and it stutters and picks back up and does it again in the next gear. Only happened a few times not an every drive type of thing.

5. I think my car crank walked. I don't know what it feels like or how it happens but when I was driving in 3rd gear around 4 thousand RPMs it felt like the motor jumped really hard and went back to normal. The CEL came on and went right back off.

6. My CEL came on and I got the code p0120 the throttle position sensor. Do you think this is why I'm having any of the problems listed above? (My BOV is not recirculated) ( I heard that some people had that code after putting a non recirculated BOV on)

7. Overall it just doesn't feel the same. The car was bone stock with 136000 on it. I only did a few things ( turbo intake, blitz BOV, cat back, boost gauge, new spark plugs and wires, gaskets from the block up, new timing and balance shaft belt, and rebuilt the head all the machine work and angled grinds on valves). Before the head rebuild I had a lot more power than I have now. It's to the point where m scared to go over 3500-4000 RPMs. I just want to fix these problems. I love my dsm and I don't want to sell it. I want to fix it and continue to build her and reach my goals. So anyone with help and the knowledge to help me try and fix them I would highly appreciate it for your words of wisdom. Thank you.

 

[Foreverthuggin0417]

Mjcanada: yes I still have the stock Intercooler pipe but I have a BLITZ BOV. I going to put the hard uicp on this week or next. I did the BLT between 12-18 pounds of pressure. I heard 20 was safe so I just did it a tad under to be even safer.

ZFWD: cps? Sorry I don't know what that is. And the timing isn't 180 off the dial pins are at 12 o'clock when everything is lined back up. I'm going to check again his weekend to make sure. And I think I had to rotate it 6 times for it to line up. Not sure though but pretty positive.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Are you getting a cel? Its a possible bad knock sensor. Its only when boosting right?

It should only take two full crank rotations for cam.marks to line back up??? Not 6.

 

[Roberti 2G]

Im leaning toward a knock sensor as well. I had similar systoms mine was screwed into my blance shaft access hole. It caused me to run like crap. Also recirculate the BOV.

 

[Foreverthuggin0417]

Jus: here is the plugs I got on the car. I think it says its gapped at .040"? Not sure though if that is right. Could you read it over and let me know? I never had a problem with the plugs only until after the head re build. But then again my compression is stronger than before the re build. You think that may be a probability?

I do have a CEL. I checked it last Wednesday and it showed p0120 throttle position sensor. I'm going to check it again tomorrow just to see if Nything else pops up. Would a bad TPS make me have any of these problems? I got a o-ring for the BISS. I read a thread on them and it says that #5 o rings from Home Depot is the same is this true? I got one but not sure if its right. My dad had one and I took it to Home Depot just to make sure it is the #5 and it is.



GP Single Platinum Spark Plug, 14mm Thread Size, 19mm (3/4") Reach, 13/16" (20.6mm) Hex Size, Gasket Seat, Resistor, Removable Terminal Nut, JIS Height, Projected Tip, Platinum Tipped Center Electrode, Trapezoid (Beveled Cut) Ground Electrode, .040" (1.02mm) Gap, Heat Range 6

NGK G-Power offers the performance and durability of platinum at a competitive price. The center electrode is fine wire platinum for better starts, superior acceleration and better fuel economy. Trapezoid cut ground electrode to reduce quenching.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Get a spark plug gapping tool remove your plugs and gap them to .024 & then see how it runs.

.040 is way to wide of a gap.

 

[JusMX141]

Jus: here is the plugs I got on the car. I think it says its gapped at .040"? Not sure though if that is right. Could you read it over and let me know? I never had a problem with the plugs only until after the head re build. But then again my compression is stronger than before the re build. You think that may be a probability?

I do have a CEL. I checked it last Wednesday and it showed p0120 throttle position sensor. I'm going to check it again tomorrow just to see if Nything else pops up. Would a bad TPS make me have any of these problems? I got a o-ring for the BISS. I read a thread on them and it says that #5 o rings from Home Depot is the same is this true? I got one but not sure if its right. My dad had one and I took it to Home Depot just to make sure it is the #5 and it is.



GP Single Platinum Spark Plug, 14mm Thread Size, 19mm (3/4") Reach, 13/16" (20.6mm) Hex Size, Gasket Seat, Resistor, Removable Terminal Nut, JIS Height, Projected Tip, Platinum Tipped Center Electrode, Trapezoid (Beveled Cut) Ground Electrode, .040" (1.02mm) Gap, Heat Range 6

NGK G-Power offers the performance and durability of platinum at a competitive price. The center electrode is fine wire platinum for better starts, superior acceleration and better fuel economy. Trapezoid cut ground electrode to reduce quenching.

Lose the Platinum plugs for sure; just go with standard copper-core NGK's gapped at .026"-.028". Platinum is a poor electrical conductor that is used in spark plugs for longevity, not better spark.

Nothing beats good 'ol copper plugs with the exception of Iridium....but those are costly and foul easy if you don't have your tune 100% dialed-in.


The function of the TPS is to sense where your throttle position is so the ECU can adjust ignition timing correctly. The ECU wants to know when you're at 4000rpms whether you just have your toe into it or you're slamming the pedal to the floor getting ready to do a full-throttle pull so it can correspond timing to injector duty among other things. It also controls the kickdown and shifting on automatic cars.

You can try testing the TPS or just replacing it with another to see what happens. Make sure it's properly calibrated/adjusted upon installation.

TPS Adjustment

 

[Foreverthuggin0417]

Jus: how would I test to see if the TPS is good? And when you say properly calibrated, what exactly is that? Today I checked the codes and got p0120 and p0500. I also noticed when my car stutters like mentioned before it is only when boosting. It doesn't let me go past 7-10 lbs. what do you think would cause that?

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Three wires for the tps. Reference signal (5v), ground, and return signal. check all of them to be, sure they are good. Return signal should be between .48-52v at closed throttle and should increase directly with the throttle as it opens going towards 5v. Should be close to 5v when 100% open.

It stumbles in boost because of the .040 spark gap on your plugs. Your blowing out the spark. Regap the plugs to .026 as stated. Get copper or iridium if you can. Copper are known to work best. I'm running iridium right now no issues.

 

[Foreverthuggin0417]

Mj: thanks for the advice. So you think it is the plugs not being gapped to? I really need to find out how to gap them then. I had the plugs for bout a month and they never did this until after the head re build. If it is the plugs that is. I'm going to try to scrape up some money and go get some plugs. I put new wires on the other day and there was oil under the cover. I pulled every plug to see if there was oil on them (I has this problem before and it was messing with boost but in really high RPMs) th number four plug had oil on it but only on the upper half not on the part below the spark plug seal.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

The copper plugs should cost less, than 10$ for all four.

Yes if your gap is, that wide it would very well cause problems.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qrLKXy4MsNg

I.could probably spot you the 10$ for the plugs this weekend if you have paypal & cant get them yourself.

 

[Foreverthuggin0417]

Mj: thanks a lot for the offer. I highly appreciate it. I went to autozone and got a gapper. They were at .040 and I gapped them to .025. So far no big difference. I could hear air coming from somewhere but can't tell.

 

[GofaST4life]

Have you recirc'd your BOV yet?

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Mj: thanks a lot for the offer. I highly appreciate it. I went to autozone and got a gapper. They were at .040 and I gapped them to .025. So far no big difference. I could hear air coming from somewhere but can't tell.

If you still have stock piping take your blitz bov off and reinstall your stock one with the recirculating hose. Then check back. Then go over every coupler on the intake make sure no of no cracks or loose clamps.

Also what did your plugs look like, when you took them out?

Also if your getting oil on top of the plugs the,rubber seals on the vc around the plug holes are leaking.

Another thing is maybe your running out of fuel IE clogged filter. Remove your fuel filter and see if dirty gas pours out of one side and clean.from the other side. Trying blowing through in the fuel flow direction. A clean good filter should be easy to blow through.

 

[Foreverthuggin0417]

Mj: yes I still ave the stock piping but getting hard pipes this weekend from a friend. Right now I got it recirculated but ghetto style. The hose s to small so I wedge it one and taped it in place it works fine and my car doesn't die anymore. The plugs looked normal to me when I pulled them, they had a little rust color to them but nothing out of the ordinary. As for the fuel filter. Where would that be located and how would I get to it. Today I changed out the valve cover gasket and all the spark plug seals. I further inspected the engine and found two screws from the exhaust mani to the turbo backed out about a inch. I screwed them down to specs. I also found a wire/plug un done. I have no idea where it goes. It doesn't look like a plug. It's coming from the bottom plug on the back of the head on the intake mani driver side. It is flat and about inch wide and two inch tall. The wire coming from it is about 5 inches. Any idea on what it is? I also am missing a screw from the alternator and power stearing bracket. And I could see a very small thumb nail size gap on the exhaust mani gasket.

 

[miguelmcv]

Just fallow the fuel line attached to the left fuel rail and you will see the fuel filter.

It would be good a pic of the plug to know better of what you are talking abou, here is a link that shows all conne tors on the engine bay, take a look and you will identify it with out a problem http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...047-2g-engine-bay-electrical-connections.html

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

This is where your fuel filter is.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

As for the plug im not sure which your talking about. What shape is the plug? How many wires? Color?

 

[Foreverthuggin0417]

Miguel: thanks for the link. I learned a lot but the plug/wire was not there. I'm going to get pics tomorrow for it is to dark out right now.

Mj: thanks for the pics. It will be of good help when I check it out tomorrow. As for the plug I'm going to have to take a pic tomorrow it is to dark right now. It is rectangle in shape and its about 1" long half inch wide and not thick at all. It kind of looks like one of those wires a D battery connects to. I really can't explain it I will post pics soon. Sorry if I can't be of help to help you better understand.

I changed out the spark plug seals and VC gasket. I screwed the two screws on the top of exhaust mani down but can't fix the little gap on the ex. Mani gasket. But after I fixed what I could, the car runs a lot better. But it's still not back to normal. I hope with the help from you and the others contributing to the help of my problems I will be able to get it back to normal or even better than before. Thanks again for asking the time to help me out, it is highly appreciated.

 

[Foreverthuggin0417]

Update: yesterday I got uicp and suppose to be greddy type rs. I installed it and it leaks really bad (the BOV). Out of the outlet. It's kind of off the topic so I'm going to make a new thread on that. So let me stay on topic.
I've been noticing oil on my valve cover by the spark plugs. So like I mentioned above I changed out the gasket and seals. The oil is still showing up but not as fast or as much. Yesterday I go to paint it and find a little crack, so I go ahead and paint it to see if I could tell if anything is leaking from the cracks I found. Today the crack appears again, so I'm assuming I'm getting the oil leak from there, maybe other places, but I know there for sure. Does anyone have any suggestion or something they have done to fix very small cracks on valve covers before. I don't want to just go buy one if I could fix the one I got.

As far as the small leak I found on the exhaust mani gasket, I went out to autozone and purchased this stuff to seal wholes on exhaust and piping. The guy told me I could use it to fix my problem. I went to go do it today and I thought I better ask someone on here for advice on that because the sealant comes with this mesh screen looking stuff your supposed to put on before you use the sealant. So my question is should I use it or just wait and buy another gasket. Also would that small of a leak cause difference in performance?

As for the oil leak under the car, I still can't find it. I cleaned the bottom of the pan off and everything around it and nothing is noticeable. So I drive around the block and look under there and the entire pan is glossy again. I could see it dripping from the back right corner (or front left corner if sitting in the driv seat). Also I see dripping from the coolant line going to the oil cooler(I think that's what it's going to). Anyone have any ideas on how I could find this leak please let me know. It's driving me crazy. I believe it's the reason my car smokes after more than 20 min drives. I know the smell is burning oil. But I don't know where the oil is coming from.

If I find anything else out I will be sure to post it. Thanks in advance for the advice.

 

[Foreverthuggin0417]

I think I figured out one of the problems. Today when driving to school my gauge read that I was at 18-19 lbs of boost. So I was thinking that when the car jerks and feels like I'm hitting a brick wall that I am actually getting fuel cut? I'm not sure but I'm thinking that the stock injectors might be shot or maxed out. I don't think that the 450cc injectors would be able to supply enough fuel to boost even around 17 let alone 19lbs of boost. I don't have a MBC installed, the stock one is one. I do have a MBC but I don't think it is a really good one and I don't think it would work right here is the link to the one I got.

In Cabin Red Turbo Boost Controller Mit Eclipse DSM EVO | eBay

Also I installed my downpipe, no cat. When I was doing that I put in the bolt that I couldn't get to on the intake manifold and my car doesn't smoke anymore and seems to hold pressure more. I put on uicp and painted them and my valve cover. I checked the valve cover and there is oil on top in the middle again. I checked the paint to see if the crack is causing it and the crack is visible so I'm thinking I'm getting oil from there and it looks like from the cap as well. I put a new cap on and still looks like I'm getting a leak from there. Does anyone know what I could do to seal the crack and maybe seal the oil cap better so it doesn't leak?