Problem after problem etc etc....

[Foreverthuggin0417]

Hey, thanks ahead of time for all the help given.

First. I recently got the head re built and put new timing belt and all gaskets needed. Balance shaft belt as well is new. All timing marks are good and starts right up. Idles smooth and runs good besides the problems I'm going to explain to the best of my abilities.

1. After the install the car makes a low ticking noise kinda sounds right behind the head near the intake manifold.

2. My BOV is no where near as loud as it was before all the head work got done and I installed it.

3. When driving it sounds like the car is in high RPMs while I'm in low RPMs between 2-3. When I let off the gas to shift it sounds like the car is letting out air really fast. I really don't know how to explain it. It just doesn't sound like it did before.

4. Sometimes while driving my car stutters and doesn't want to go past 3-4 thousand RPMs. Like I'm hitting a brick wall and it stutters and picks back up and does it again in the next gear. Only happened a few times not an every drive type of thing.

5. I think my car crank walked. I don't know what it feels like or how it happens but when I was driving in 3rd gear around 4 thousand RPMs it felt like the motor jumped really hard and went back to normal. The CEL came on and went right back off.

6. My CEL came on and I got the code p0120 the throttle position sensor. Do you think this is why I'm having any of the problems listed above? (My BOV is not recirculated) ( I heard that some people had that code after putting a non recirculated BOV on)

7. Overall it just doesn't feel the same. The car was bone stock with 136000 on it. I only did a few things ( turbo intake, blitz BOV, cat back, boost gauge, new spark plugs and wires, gaskets from the block up, new timing and balance shaft belt, and rebuilt the head all the machine work and angled grinds on valves). Before the head rebuild I had a lot more power than I have now. It's to the point where m scared to go over 3500-4000 RPMs. I just want to fix these problems. I love my dsm and I don't want to sell it. I want to fix it and continue to build her and reach my goals. So anyone with help and the knowledge to help me try and fix them I would highly appreciate it for your words of wisdom. Thank you.

 

[grothe3297venge]

1. I would check to make sure everything is tightened down properly, hopefully something's just loose.
2. Have you performed a BLT?? Your BOV may be leaking air.
3. Doesn't really make sense to me sorry.
4. Once again, check to see if you have a BLT.
5. Lol.. I think if your car "crank walked" you would notice more then just your engine jolting. Is your car an automatic or 5-speed??
6. I don't see how a non-recirculated BOV would cause the TPS to cause issues, but I would try replacing your TPS, may have just gone bad.
7. Overall, I would check your timing again, do a compression test to make sure all is well internally, and do a BLT then check back

 

[miguelmcv]

Boost leak is your friend for now.

 

[rlacasse1]

The ticking may be lifter tick.

As for everything else, try doing a BLT to make sure you have everything leak free. Recirculate your BOV. It will run like ass unless you have a blow through setup or speed density. And finally, it sounds like your timing is off. I would check it again just to make sure.

 

[drewboi]

Give the lifters a min to fill up with oil and they should quiet down.. Defiantly do a boost leak test.. My guess would be you got a leak based on how your cars studdering and a sensor within the circuit that meters air is upset

 

[Foreverthuggin0417]

Thanks for all the advice. I never did a boost leak test. Can anyone help me out with steps with that please. Thank you.

 

[grothe3297venge]

Thanks for all the advice. I never did a boost leak test. Can anyone help me out with steps with that please. Thank you.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...-boost-leak-test-how-boostpro-net-tester.html - search is thy best friend!

And this - http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html

 

[Foreverthuggin0417]

Grothe: thank you for the good advice and helping me better understanding the boost leak tester. I highly appreciate it and will definitely let you know how it went. Thanks again.

 

[90laserdsm]

Hey, thanks ahead of time for all the help given.

First. I recently got the head re built and put new timing belt and all gaskets needed. Balance shaft belt as well is new. All timing marks are good and starts right up. Idles smooth and runs good besides the problems I'm going to explain to the best of my abilities.

1. After the install the car makes a low ticking noise kinda sounds right behind the head near the intake manifold.

2. My BOV is no where near as loud as it was before all the head work got done and I installed it.

3. When driving it sounds like the car is in high RPMs while I'm in low RPMs between 2-3. When I let off the gas to shift it sounds like the car is letting out air really fast. I really don't know how to explain it. It just doesn't sound like it did before.

4. Sometimes while driving my car stutters and doesn't want to go past 3-4 thousand RPMs. Like I'm hitting a brick wall and it stutters and picks back up and does it again in the next gear. Only happened a few times not an every drive type of thing.

5. I think my car crank walked. I don't know what it feels like or how it happens but when I was driving in 3rd gear around 4 thousand RPMs it felt like the motor jumped really hard and went back to normal. The CEL came on and went right back off.

6. My CEL came on and I got the code p0120 the throttle position sensor. Do you think this is why I'm having any of the problems listed above? (My BOV is not recirculated) ( I heard that some people had that code after putting a non recirculated BOV on)

7. Overall it just doesn't feel the same. The car was bone stock with 136000 on it. I only did a few things ( turbo intake, blitz BOV, cat back, boost gauge, new spark plugs and wires, gaskets from the block up, new timing and balance shaft belt, and rebuilt the head all the machine work and angled grinds on valves). Before the head rebuild I had a lot more power than I have now. It's to the point where m scared to go over 3500-4000 RPMs. I just want to fix these problems. I love my dsm and I don't want to sell it. I want to fix it and continue to build her and reach my goals. So anyone with help and the knowledge to help me try and fix them I would highly appreciate it for your words of wisdom. Thank you.

Number 1 is probably just lifter tick.
2-4 Sound like a boost leak.
And about the crank walk, does it make any knocking noises kinda like you spun a bearing?

 

[hotrodssnova]

Did you have the head milled? If so, did you dremmel out the oil passage on the head?

 

[Foreverthuggin0417]

Hotrodssnova: I don't have know if they milled it. What would that be exactly? I could call to see if they did. And if they did and I didn't dremmel out the passage what would be or should be happening to show signs of that?

90laser: no it doesn't make any noises. But then again I don't know what sound to look for if a bearing was spun.

And grothe: I have a 5 speed.

I found a leak on the throttle bottle. The screw on the top nearest the front. I think it's the idle set screw? Anyone know how to fix that?

 

[JusMX141]

Please use a descriptive thread title when starting a new thread; it's in the rules you agreed to when joining the site.

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For now:

1. After the install the car makes a low ticking noise kinda sounds right behind the head near the intake manifold.

Lifter tick. Should have upgraded the lifters while the head was off.

2. My BOV is no where near as loud as it was before all the head work got done and I installed it.

Who cares. It's air. Being released.

3. When driving it sounds like the car is in high RPMs while I'm in low RPMs between 2-3. When I let off the gas to shift it sounds like the car is letting out air really fast. I really don't know how to explain it. It just doesn't sound like it did before.

4. Sometimes while driving my car stutters and doesn't want to go past 3-4 thousand RPMs. Like I'm hitting a brick wall and it stutters and picks back up and does it again in the next gear. Only happened a few times not an every drive type of thing.

Boost leak.

5. I think my car crank walked. I don't know what it feels like or how it happens but when I was driving in 3rd gear around 4 thousand RPMs it felt like the motor jumped really hard and went back to normal. The CEL came on and went right back off.

You have absolutely no idea what crankwalk is.

6. My CEL came on and I got the code p0120 the throttle position sensor. Do you think this is why I'm having any of the problems listed above? (My BOV is not recirculated) ( I heard that some people had that code after putting a non recirculated BOV on)

Recirculate your valve, clear the codes, and start over.

7. Overall it just doesn't feel the same. The car was bone stock with 136000 on it. I only did a few things ( turbo intake, blitz BOV, cat back, boost gauge, new spark plugs and wires, gaskets from the block up, new timing and balance shaft belt, and rebuilt the head all the machine work and angled grinds on valves). Before the head rebuild I had a lot more power than I have now. It's to the point where m scared to go over 3500-4000 RPMs.

It's possible the car wasn't timed correctly when the person who did the engine work was installing the timing belt.

 

[Foreverthuggin0417]

Jus: thanks for the advice. I found a boost leak coming from the BISS. I'm really not sure how to fix that. Or where to get the parts needed. And your right I have no clue what crank walk is just thought it might be an option? I'm also going to check the timing this weekend to see if all is still lined up.

 

[JusMX141]

There's a small o-ring on the idle screw- your local parts store should be able to help you out as long as they're competent enough to know where their o-ring assortments are located.

I can't believe that was the only leak you found- the rest of the symptoms scream "boost leak". Any idea what your plugs are gapped at? Spark blowout is often the worst at the onset of boost....perhaps whoever did the work used Platinum plugs and/or gapped them pretty wide.

Trust me- if you had crankwalk, some minor driveability issues would be the least of your problems.

 

[Foreverthuggin0417]

Jus: yea that was the only one I could find and it is coming out fast like a pound every couple seconds. And I have no clue on what the plugs are gapped at. I order ngkbpr6es and some other ones came. NGk bpr6 something after that, don't know the last letter/numbers for sure. But a friend of mine told me they were just ones you could get from o Reilly's so I guess I got ripped off. What would be the right gap size and how would I be able to measure it.

Also, do I just unscrew the BISS and replace o ring or how is that done? Thank you for your hep.

 

[JusMX141]

Gap should be .026"-.028".

Good info here about finding the o-ring you need:

PN for biss o-ring?

Correct, it just screws out....but you should take note of the position and "depth" that the screw is in there as any alteration will effect how the ECU controls the car's idle.

 

[Foreverthuggin0417]

Jus: thanks again for the help. What would you think having air coming from there most likely do to the car. Today when driving I boosted around 14lbs at 3500 for a second and then it felt like I drove into a wall. My car didn't want to go past 3500-4000 RPMs. Any suggestions. When trying to go last it the car sputters a lot and I just have to shift.

 

[grothe3297venge]

Why are you still trying to build boost when you know you have an issue. Baby it until you get that leak fixed!

 

[miguelmcv]

Just screw the biss in and count the turns you do while screwing it in, once you know how many turns you did (write it down so you don't forget), screw it out, replace the O ring, screw it all the way in and crew it out counting the same turns you count the first time.
This way, the screw will be in the exact same position where it was.

 

[JusMX141]

Seem like it's loading up on fuel or anything? Trying to think of what else it may be aside from a boost leak or spark blowout and I have nothing aside from a defective mass airflow sensor. A tiny boost leak at the BISS will not cause a major driveability issue.

 

[holsettsi]

i would really recirculate the bov, at this point it can only help.

secondly, a boost leak after the maf will cause you to run really rich(along with venting bov). the car is adding fuel for air it THINKS it is seeing, causing you too run really rich.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Check your base fuel pressure. Do you you still have your fps still on the car? If your base pressure is to high it's only going to increase with boost till its adding too much fuel and bam! There is your wall. What fuel pump are you using and do you have an afpr? Your bov really needs to be recirculated. Which bov are you using?

 

[Foreverthuggin0417]

Jus: yea my boy told me t sounds like I got fuel cut, but I don't know how that could be when I don't have bolt ons to where I would need more fuel. Sometimes I could smell gas but not a lot or all the time. When I did the head re build I went to go get the o ring kits and my dad told me not to because we didn't take the injectors off the rail and he re used the ring that goes in the head. You think maybe I might have a fuel leak or loosing pressure some how? The only reason my boy thinks of fuel cut is because I took him for a drive and he had me do a pull and the first one was fine and on the way back the second one it stuttered hella hard around 3500 and really didn't want to go past it. So I stayed around 2500 between shifts. But it really just didn't want to go past it in any gear. It stutters really bad and feels like I'm hitting a wall. I also have a oil leak somewhere I can't find it at all, but my oil pressure is still good and it seems to be coming out a lot but I check the oil and its always full or near full. I don't know if I could still be leaking oil from when my filter came off or could it be a new leak. I looked under the car and the oil pan seems to always be wet and stuff around it. I don't know if that boost leak, an oil leak, my BOV not being recirculated , and maybe fuel cut be causing my problem. Maybe timing off? But my car starts and runs fine besides the problems I have. I'll check the marks again this weekend.

Holsetti: thanks for the info. The only leak I found was coming from the BISS. I don't have my air to fuel ration hooked up still got to get to that.

Mjcanada: I don't have a fuel pressure regulator. My mods are mild to none and I still haven't put on my down pipe or high flow car because of the problems I have now. How else could I check the fuel pressure without having a regulator? I'm really tight on money or else I would go out and get one. I'm using the blitz BOV and the outlet is really big and couldn't be recirculated. Well I don't think it could be but maybe if I could fab something that big. I have a air to fuel ratio gauge but don't have it hooked up. It's one of those combo gauges from glow shift.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

If your stock.then I wouldn't worry about your fuel pressure. Do you have hard pipes or stock pipes? Talking about the upper piping with your bov.

Do you still.have your stock bov and piping?


What psi did you do the blt at?

 

[LOLZFWD]

I would lean more towards timing or a sensor. Crankwalk is a no for sure. If you say timing is good make sure you double check and that it is not 180 degrees off....Rotate the car over til it lines up. Then do 4 rotations make sure it lines up still on everything. Also your CPS? working properly, position?