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Probably need new flywheel, recommendations?

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XC92

Proven Member
1,573
362
Jul 22, 2020
Queens, New_York
To continue my '92 Talon TSi AWD saga, I probably need a new flywheel. I took the OEM to a local machine shop and they said it looks like it doesn't have enough surface to properly and safely grind down the glazing and other imperfections and I probably need a new one.

I just got a new clutch kit from SBC, their Stage 2 Daily Driver, and while they said I could use the old flywheel for now for relatively short distances, I probably need a new one. Even if the old one has one more resurface in it, they're pretty expensive in my area, well north of $100, and I can get a new and better one for a bit more than double that.

So, I've narrowed it down to either the Fidanza Aluminum, ACT Streetlight, or Competition Clutch Lightweight. They're all in the $240-$260 range. I believe that the latter 2 are steel, so I'm leaning towards them as I don't need to get anything fancy with the replaceable friction surface or steel ring gear which I've heard can detach. Between the 2 steel ones, which is better for daily, non-competition, moderately but not too aggressive driving with this clutch, on a stock 195HP Talon TSi AWD?

Either way, do I need anything else to go with these, like longer bolts, shims, etc.?

Also, roughly how many miles can I safely put on the old unresurfaced OEM flywheel before it does real damage to the new clutch? Dozens, hundreds, thousands? I'm not really concerned about voiding the warranty as I don't do the kind of driving that's likely to require it and I'm sure they make high quality clutch discs that can take some abuse.
 
ACT Streetlight. I picked up a used one in the classifieds here for like $100. I absolutely love it. Revs awesome and not too light for daily driving and stop and go traffic.

BTW I bought it for the same reason as you, my OEM flywheel was far beyond resurfacing.
 
Thanks. How many miles and clutch changes/resurfacings did the old flywheel have before you got the ACT? Mine's at 78k and this is the car's 4th clutch. Yeah, I'm not very light-footed. :idontknow:
 
There is a lot of questions regarding your clutch, when in doubt replace due to maintenance. Ive seen act flywheels for cheap, on fb adds, as clutches act, competiotion, are good go to any vendor and they will be able to set you up, with a clutch for your goals, call extreme psi, i would for great prices you cant go wrong with clutches for your goal. That way you have a idea, call a vendor up. Best thing get a kit and be done with it, anything above will suit you fine.
 
Like I wrote, I already installed a new clutch kit, now it just needs a new or resurfaced flywheel. I put everything back on because I had to move the car and didn't have time to deal with the flywheel issue right then. I'll have to drop the trans again and replace it fairly soon.
 
Well yeah, I was just asking which is recommended. It was all in the original comment.
 
Between the 2 steel ones, which is better for daily, non-competition, moderately but not too aggressive driving with this clutch, on a stock 195HP Talon TSi AWD?

Out of the flywheels mentioned, I would suggest the ACT streetlight flywheel (currently on sale @extremepsi).

Either way, do I need anything else to go with these, like longer bolts, shims, etc.?

In addition to the clutch kit, I would recommend replacing the fork/pivot ball if one of your previous clutch jobs did not entail doing so. Competition Clutch offers a solid replacement setup that includes the fork and pivot ball. Many here will also prefer the OEM release bearing instead of the aftermarket offerings.

Also, roughly how many miles can I safely put on the old unresurfaced OEM flywheel before it does real damage to the new clutch? Dozens, hundreds, thousands?

If you know it's not done right, you know it should be zero. I know things don't always happen the way they should though. It was not mentioned that any pedal adjustment/inspection was completed. If not, once you install a flywheel within spec., you may want to look into the adjustment procedure. If the hydraulic fluid for the clutch system hasn't been changed recently, it's a great time to do so.
 
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I flushed out the old brake fluid, cleaned the outside of the slave cylinder as best I could, put in new fluid, and bled it properly. As for the flywheel, I also cleaned it up as best I could with a wire brush, gently so as to not gouge it or take off metal, and confirmed with SBC that it's ok to drive it a little before replacing it. What little is, I don't know, though.

I do need to drive it to a local shop to get a state inspection, which is unavoidable as the car needs to be put back on the street this week and it'll get ticketed otherwise. I can't imagine that just a few miles would do that much damage to the clutch disc. It's how much beyond this I can get away with.

I didn't replace either the fork or fulcrum, but also cleaned both up. With only 78k miles on the car and no truly aggressive driving and zero racing, I'm guessing that they both still have some life in them. I'll find out soon enough, I suppose, in clutch performance. I did replace the throwout bearing, with an OEM-"like" one I got from RockAuto, NSK IIRC. It has the resin sleeve.

I need to drop the trans soon anyway, to deal with other issues that require that it be dropped, which is when I'll replace the flywheel and if necessary the other components. I only rushed this because of the need to drive the car to pass inspection. Otherwise I would have done it right.

As for which flywheel, the consensus seems to be the ACT. Just curious, why doesn't anyone rec the competition clutch one, which seems very similar?
 
I've had several Competition Clutch flywheels in my cars, both FWD and AWD. No additional hardware needed, and reusing the original hardware is fine as long as nothing is damaged. Early on I picked the Competition unit because I wanted something that felt identical to the OE one. I truly could not tell a difference due to the reduced weight in driving, and that was what I wanted as a DD in college. I picked up another for my latest GSX at the end of last year and I'm definitely happy with it, but now that this is more of a fun only car and I have six other cars to pick from I'm starting to regret not going even lighter. Even with a fresh 9.0:1 build it doesn't rev as freely as I'd like, and especially when downshifting (and not heel-toeing because I am lazy) the weight of the steel flywheel is apparent.

No complaints at all about the quality of the Competition unit. I'd just like to go lighter in retrospect, so my eye is on the Fidanza unit.
 
It doesn't need different or additional hardware? I've read that the ACT one does, which gives me pause as first you're supposed to use longer bolts because its hub is thicker than stock, but the bolts could be too long and might bottom before reaching torque so you also have to use a shim, on the bolt head side I assume so as to not bring the flywheel closer to the pressure plate and clutch disc. Seems a bit iffy, and why can't you just grind down the bolts by whatever thickness the shim has?

If the CC flywheel has a stock hub thickness, it might be more suitable for me. They two otherwise seem pretty similar to me.
 
I have act flywheel, nothing is needed extra just bolt it on, i never used cc so i cant say.

Here's what I'm referring to:

ACT Streetlite Flywheel: DSM

NOTE: We recommend use of the OEM longer flywheel bolts with this flywheel because the hub area is thicker than the stocker and the stock-length flywheel bolts may not provide full thread engagement. We also recommend an OEM shim plate because if the longer bolts turn out to be TOO long (which is a possibility) the shim plate will allow you to space the bolts up a bit to compensate. An aluminum flywheel hardware kit is another option since it contains the shim plate, longer flywheel bolts and several other useful fasteners. For details, please refer to the "Related products" link near the bottom of the page.

NOTE: For details on our recommended installation procedure when using longer than stock flywheel bolts, please refer to "Aluminum Flywheel Hardware Kit" or "OEM Longer Flywheel Bolts". For details, please refer to the "Related products" link near the bottom of the page.​
 
Well I guess the thing to do is install the bolts all the way into the crankshaft end without the flywheel, measure the gap,, and if it's just a bit less than the flywheel hub thickness, you should be good (it has to be less because you don't want the bolts to bottom, but not too much less, I'm guessing no more than 1-2mm).
 
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