2G Power Steering Troubles

[JackStieben]

So I replaced the 3 PS hoses and the pump after one of the hoses blew and I had to drive with a fluid-less pump for a while. (It was the original pump and needed a replacement anyways). Well I did all that and I bled the system. I have tried every way. wheels on ground with car off, wheels on ground with car on, wheels off ground car on, wheels off ground car off, I've made the wheel go from lock to lock, I've even made sure I didn't quite hit the lock. Every single way I have read here or dsmtalk and my steering still isn't 100%. There are no more bubbles that come out of the system. I took it for a drive and I noticed that my steering became easier the higher the engine RPMs were, (faster the pump is spinning?) Steering isn't difficult except for turning from a stop. Any reason why it's doing this? Or did I do something wrong? I have no leaks. I've check all over. cooler, steering rack, pump, reservoir, hoses, etc. Nothing. Any help is greatly appreciated. I'm trying not to take it to a shop.

 

[OGDSM1989]

Sounds like a low side pressure .... that would be something internal in the rack, which makes sense since you drove it with no pressure or fluid when the hose broke. May look into a replacement rack or a manual rack

 

[JackStieben]

Until I can have a new rack ready to be swapped in, is it okay to drive the car as it is? Or could it wear out the brand new pump?

 

[oneslowwdsm]

Until I can have a new rack ready to be swapped in, is it okay to drive the car as it is? Or could it wear out the brand new pump?

From what I know, you're supposed to be turning the wheel lock to lock as the car is cranking only. This requires pulling your fuel pump relay or disconnecting something so the car doesn't start, just cranks over. Also requires the wheels to be off the ground.

There's also a pressure sensor on the pump, did you by chance happen to forget to plug that in? Is the belt tight?

 

[JackStieben]

Pressure is indeed plugged in, belt is tight. Can I unplug the crankshaft sensor as if I was doing a compression test? And then I would continously crank the car and turn the wheel at the same time?

 

[chrysler kid]

Well to add conflicting information I've always bled the pump by turning lock to lock 3 times with the wheels in the air. When the wheels are at lock the pump tries to push as much pressure as it can to move the wheel and it helps bleed the system

With that being said though a line with air in it will have symptoms of intermittently not working. So the pump would work just fine and then it would loose all power for a few seconds

 

[oneslowwdsm]

Pressure is indeed plugged in, belt is tight. Can I unplug the crankshaft sensor as if I was doing a compression test? And then I would continously crank the car and turn the wheel at the same time?

Well you could, I would just rather unplug fuel as to not flood your cylinders.

 

[OGDSM1989]

Here is how we do it at the shop I work at , we also only use premium fluid "Redline, Royal Purple" no ATF fluids at all

1 Do not start car until after bleeding is done
2 Raise front wheels off the ground
3 turn wheel fully to left
4 fill to "cold" cap off
5 slowly turn wheel to right lock etc...etc...
if you go fast the fluid will over flow and get bubbles, do this back and forth
untill fluid level drops ...coolers will take more times 50 - 60 rotations maybe needed
6 unplug fuel pump relay / ignition relay or module to prevent motor from starting
7 then crank over a few times ..... if fluid level drops then you have air in lines
if little bubbles occur check fittings and wait 20 mins and try step
7 again ..... if fluid level drops repeat steps 3 - 7 over until fluid level stops
dropping and or little bubbles go away

hope this helps

 

[JackStieben]

Here is how we do it at the shop I work at , we also only use premium fluid "Redline, Royal Purple" no ATF fluids at all

1 Do not start car until after bleeding is done
2 Raise front wheels off the ground
3 turn wheel fully to left
4 fill to "cold" cap off
5 slowly turn wheel to right lock etc...etc...
if you go fast the fluid will over flow and get bubbles, do this back and forth
untill fluid level drops ...coolers will take more times 50 - 60 rotations maybe needed
6 unplug fuel pump relay / ignition relay or module to prevent motor from starting
7 then crank over a few times ..... if fluid level drops then you have air in lines
if little bubbles occur check fittings and wait 20 mins and try step
7 again ..... if fluid level drops repeat steps 3 - 7 over until fluid level stops
dropping and or little bubbles go away

hope this helps

Got to work on it today, did exactly as you said, and the fluid didn't change at all. Did not move, no bubbles. I got underneath and looked at my rack, I don't see any visible leaks. Is there any way to check the rack to see if I need a replacement?